What happend? Engine blow?
03-01-09, 04:16 PM
#1
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What happend? Engine blow?
I changed my fuel filter this morning, was a pain in the ***. After priming the fuel system I took it for a test drive. Everything was normal so I get on it a little, only boosted about 8 PSI then I hear the dreadfull detonation sounds pop pop pop. Now my car won't idle, I can get it to start if I let it crank enough times but it dies a couple senconds after I let off the peddle. I can drive the car and it seems to run okay at higher rpms.
So did the motor blow or could it be something else?
I haven't done a compression check yet, I don't have the equipment.
Let me know.
Greg
So did the motor blow or could it be something else?
I haven't done a compression check yet, I don't have the equipment.
Let me know.
Greg
03-01-09, 04:31 PM
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Blown motor = change in compression that you can easily hear out the exhaust. It will go from sounding smooth like a weedeater to sounding harsh like a lawn mower. (Best way I can explain it)
If your motor is sounding okay at "higher rpms" as you said above, then I'd put my money on something being wrong with your MAP sensor. It is located on the driver's side, near the firewall. Check the electrical connection to make sure it's still connected, and check the vacuum line that comes out of the bottom of the MAP and runs to the back of the intake manifold.
Good luck, and if you don't have access to a compression tester, you could always test compression by cranking the engine with the lower spark plugs taken out one at a time.
If your motor is sounding okay at "higher rpms" as you said above, then I'd put my money on something being wrong with your MAP sensor. It is located on the driver's side, near the firewall. Check the electrical connection to make sure it's still connected, and check the vacuum line that comes out of the bottom of the MAP and runs to the back of the intake manifold.
Good luck, and if you don't have access to a compression tester, you could always test compression by cranking the engine with the lower spark plugs taken out one at a time.
03-01-09, 04:42 PM
#3
You don't need a compression checker to check for a blown motor.
If you have a 10mm socket. Take your elbow piping off your throttle body.
Take your top plug out of each rotor housing. Take out your fuel pump
fuse (under the plastic plenum that feeds your air box if stock). And Also take
out you EGI fuse so you’re not creating spark. Turn the motor over. If you
have a consistent air being pushed out of both rotor housings. You still
have all your seals. You'll hear a gap in the air noise if one is missing.
You need a 13/16 plug socket to get the plugs out.
Good luck.
If you don't have any tools. Then just go buy a 3/8 ratchet, 3/8 3" extension, 3/8 10mm socket,
3/8 13/16 plug socket. Just get cheap ones. Doesn't have to be name brand
If you have a 10mm socket. Take your elbow piping off your throttle body.
Take your top plug out of each rotor housing. Take out your fuel pump
fuse (under the plastic plenum that feeds your air box if stock). And Also take
out you EGI fuse so you’re not creating spark. Turn the motor over. If you
have a consistent air being pushed out of both rotor housings. You still
have all your seals. You'll hear a gap in the air noise if one is missing.
You need a 13/16 plug socket to get the plugs out.
Good luck.
If you don't have any tools. Then just go buy a 3/8 ratchet, 3/8 3" extension, 3/8 10mm socket,
3/8 13/16 plug socket. Just get cheap ones. Doesn't have to be name brand
03-01-09, 06:27 PM
#6
You don't need a compression checker to check for a blown motor.
If you have a 10mm socket. Take your elbow piping off your throttle body.
Take your top plug out of each rotor housing. Take out your fuel pump
fuse (under the plastic plenum that feeds your air box if stock). And Also take
out you EGI fuse so you’re not creating spark. Turn the motor over. If you
have a consistent air being pushed out of both rotor housings. You still
have all your seals. You'll hear a gap in the air noise if one is missing.
You need a 13/16 plug socket to get the plugs out.
Good luck.
If you don't have any tools. Then just go buy a 3/8 ratchet, 3/8 3" extension, 3/8 10mm socket,
3/8 13/16 plug socket. Just get cheap ones. Doesn't have to be name brand
If you have a 10mm socket. Take your elbow piping off your throttle body.
Take your top plug out of each rotor housing. Take out your fuel pump
fuse (under the plastic plenum that feeds your air box if stock). And Also take
out you EGI fuse so you’re not creating spark. Turn the motor over. If you
have a consistent air being pushed out of both rotor housings. You still
have all your seals. You'll hear a gap in the air noise if one is missing.
You need a 13/16 plug socket to get the plugs out.
Good luck.
If you don't have any tools. Then just go buy a 3/8 ratchet, 3/8 3" extension, 3/8 10mm socket,
3/8 13/16 plug socket. Just get cheap ones. Doesn't have to be name brand
, so no need to remove both. The fuel pump still comes on but the injectors wont fire. To the OP, do you have a boost gauge? Check your vacuum and get back to us with the amount of vacuum it is pulling at idle and what rpm it is idleing at. I recently had a customer daily drive his blown motor fd around for about 3 weeks. Hopefully it isnt blown and it is in some way related to the work you recently performed. Best way to check is the compression test though.
03-01-09, 06:41 PM
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Thanks for the replies. I will check the compression this week, I need to go but a 13/16 plug socket.
I have a boost gauge and it appears to have the same vaccum as before, which is around 30, it idles at around 500 rpm.
I have a boost gauge and it appears to have the same vaccum as before, which is around 30, it idles at around 500 rpm.
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03-01-09, 08:04 PM
#10
If you have a 10mm socket. Take your elbow piping off your throttle body.
Take your top plug out of each rotor housing. Take out your fuel pump
fuse (under the plastic plenum that feeds your air box if stock). And Also take
out you EGI fuse so you’re not creating spark. Turn the motor over. If you
have a consistent air being pushed out of both rotor housings. You still
have all your seals. You'll hear a gap in the air noise if one is missing.
Take your top plug out of each rotor housing. Take out your fuel pump
fuse (under the plastic plenum that feeds your air box if stock). And Also take
out you EGI fuse so you’re not creating spark. Turn the motor over. If you
have a consistent air being pushed out of both rotor housings. You still
have all your seals. You'll hear a gap in the air noise if one is missing.
03-01-09, 08:42 PM
#11
However, this just lets you know if you are getting any compression. The engine can still be blown but creating compression from all three faces of a rotor (i.e. getting something like a 95/20/20). Using a compression tester is still the best thing, even if it's a $20 tester from Sears.
What I said is just to see quickly if all your seals are there or not.
03-08-09, 05:53 PM
#22
Racecar - Formula 2000
That looked like 2 low, 1 high, which is the sign of 1 bad apex seal (between the 2 low chambers).
Dave
Dave
03-08-09, 09:11 PM
#24
IF you pull the EGI it kills spark and fuel , so no need to remove both. The fuel pump still comes on but the injectors wont fire.
To the OP, do you have a boost gauge? Check your vacuum and get back to us with the amount of vacuum it is pulling at idle and what rpm it is idleing at. I recently had a customer daily drive his blown motor fd around for about 3 weeks. Hopefully it isnt blown and it is in some way related to the work you recently performed. Best way to check is the compression test though.
, so no need to remove both. The fuel pump still comes on but the injectors wont fire. To the OP, do you have a boost gauge? Check your vacuum and get back to us with the amount of vacuum it is pulling at idle and what rpm it is idleing at. I recently had a customer daily drive his blown motor fd around for about 3 weeks. Hopefully it isnt blown and it is in some way related to the work you recently performed. Best way to check is the compression test though.
03-09-09, 02:15 PM
#25
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I'm pretty sure I didn't do anything wrong when I installed it, pretty straight forward.
Now I am contemplating whether I want to do the rebuild myself to save a couple thousand or have someone with experience.
Now I am contemplating whether I want to do the rebuild myself to save a couple thousand or have someone with experience.
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