TK7

iTrader: (6)

Gotham is gone. Ive read many threads saying the best way to use a looped line rack is with the gotham kit. what was in it? can i just source it on my own?? Goodfellafd3s said it was night and day difference between the kit and how he looped it the first time.

thanks

moosejaw

iTrader: (6)

why not send your kit to Maval to rebuild?
Just find a spare rack or send them your own
Cant beat it for $300+
They have the FD racks on the shelf ready to go, if your core is good

arghx

iTrader: (3)

It was two fittings and a hose dude

oo7arkman

iTrader: (2)

PM KaiFD3S I know he used to have the gotham kit. I would also be willing to bet that in all your reading you noticed the looped line (even the gotham kit) is very different than a real manual conversion. It really is not that difficult to do yourself, or do as suggested above and send your rack to maval. The worst thing that could happen is you don't like the manual steering and have to trade it +$$ for a factory rack. That would be pretty easy on here considering everyone that has gone with the maval rack loves it..

tt7hvn

iTrader: (5)

i personally would get the maval conversation having already done the looped line and driven with it. i don't like how it feels with the looped line, the car at times feels like it's going to steer on it's own and it's very uncomfortable


go with the maval rack

TK7

iTrader: (6)

^ that may be something I do later, but for now I really just want the car back on the road.


So it's nothing then huh? Just plug the 2 and loop the rack with almost no fluid. I read someone put a tee with an air filter on it, wonder if that makes it even a little easier.

If that's all it is, then I wonder why goodfella said it made such a difference?

muibubbles

iTrader: (36)

convert it yourself... its not that hard and if u dont fck up you dont need to buy any parts iirc

arghx

iTrader: (3)

I can't speak for Goodfella. I know about this kit because I ordered a PFC holder and turbo blanket from Gotham a couple years ago and they threw one of the P/S delete kits in there by accident. I saw this little bag with two barb fittings and a hose and thought "is that it?"

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

I was talking about the difference between running with power steering, and deleting it--- with the line loop. It gives a lot more feedback (maybe too much) and I definitely liked the steering feel better vs the numb factory p/s.

I've since moved onto a Maval rack and love it. Definitely the proper way to do it in a situation where you have the time for the install and the cash for the rack.

And it's actually three fittings and a length of hose. The fittings were a pain in the *** to source, took a few trips to the hydraulic fitting store..... this was waaaay back in like 2002, how times have changed

oo7arkman

iTrader: (2)

Faster than sourcing the parts to do the loop line you could convert your own rack to a manual rack (just like the maval rack). Really it only takes a few hours. There is a great writeup on here with pics and all. And if you end up needing a few replacement parts Ray at Malloy Mazda can get you oem parts cheaper than anyone else and shipped out very quickly. It will take a few days to get across the pond, but still most likely faster than most other places.

Sideo

you dont need to buy anything unless you plan on someday going back to P/S.

Take out your p/s pump(take the lines to the rack off and everything.)
Put a bucket underneath the rack to catch fluid, turn from lock to lock a few times to drain all the fluid.

get a tubing cutter, i used the one with a small circular blade that you tighten on the pipe and spin around. cut off the two fiting leaving an inch or two of metal pipe. cut off a section of the rubber P/S line and hose clamp it onto the fitting, replace fittings.



plz feel free to flame me if i did it wrong but that is what it seems to be after having talked to howard

also i would not go back, after driving the rx7 for a few days when i go back to my DD i feel like the tires are goign to break loose any moment and i wont notice feedback is way better.

XLR8

iTrader: (52)

^ You did it right... no flames here

The point of using fittings is in case you ever want to reverse back to PS.

I simply cut the lines after all of the great feedback I heard about this. I knew I wouldn't go back. I can honestly say that I like it deleted much more. FD's just don't need power steering.

TK7

iTrader: (6)

almost exactly 40 lbs! :o)

the a/c hasnt worked in forever, so nothing new there. The steering is definitely heavier, and if the car is at a dead stop, it pretty much sucks. but i can "feel" the road quite a bit more. i dont think ill miss it. and the engine bay looks so much better.

only thing that i havnt figured out yet, is the add coolant light is on now of course i checked the coolant, its full....and so is the overflow tank. drove the car for a while, keeping a close eye on the PFC and the temps stayed low? im confused, maybe its unrelated to me messing around in the engine bay?

Sideo

the coolant level sensor is right underneath the cap, u can see it with a yellow sticker in my picture. mine broke so i grounded the wire until i get a new sensor. just make sure to check your coolant of course since the light/ anoying buzzer will no longer warn you.

Rx_Sam

if i read good then a loop line must be whitout fluid ? i thought it had to be full with no airbubbles in it. damn

XLR8

iTrader: (52)

When cutting the lines turn the wheel all the way in both directions, then add the loop. The idea is to have a small amount of fluid in the rack for lubrication. Air moves easier than fluid, so the steering may lighten a bit.

I will add that after this mod, if you can't turn your wheel with your car stopped then you need to hit the gym......

TK7

iTrader: (6)

sitting on my smooth garage concrete, i could turn the wheel without much effort. once on the normal rough driveway concrete or the road asphalt, it became pretty hard if the car is completly stopped. once youre moving, even just 1 mph, it becomes relatively easy again.

i havnt had a chance to do any real sprirted driving yet, just cruised around a little. id say i prefer power steerings effortless drivability, over the heavier feel. but id never trade the weight and the way it frees up the engine bay for it.

almost exactly 40lbs not counting fluid, ....throw in a light weight battery relocated to the bins, and youve moved a LOT of weight off the front wheels.

ProjectD

iTrader: (15)

Don't forget option 3 (best option IMHO)



Unfortunately it's alot more expensive than the marvel rack

staticguitar313

iTrader: (2)

i'm converting my rack similar to the way the maval rack is done, don't forget to have the steering shaft welded while its apart.

TK7

iTrader: (6)

what... engineless??? haha

XLR8

iTrader: (52)

^ That fancy rack works best that way

Very nice bro!! $$$$ cough cough...

ProjectD

iTrader: (15)

Not quite cupcake

oo7arkman

iTrader: (2)

Cyan, good to see some newer pics!!!! That looks great! I cannot wait to hear it run.

Sideo, there are a few other things you should really address when doing the manual rack conversion. The steering quill should be removed, the seals removed, and the quill welded for added strength. Also there is a small seal on the opposite end of the quill inside the casing that needs to be cut off. There is a writeup on here complete with pics that is really good. It is also on the miata website b/c our racks are almost identical.

I just replaced the boots b/c they were messed up so that is really all I had to buy. I found out later I could have saved boatloads by just picking some up at the local parts store instead of Mazda even with the great discount we get from Ray.

TK7, your coolant light is coming on b/c there is a single black wire with black rectangular clip that is connected to the power steering that is also linked to the coolant buzzer. That is why it is going off... I am not sure, but I believe that if you simply ground this wire the buzzer will still function as normal and only alarm in a true low coolant situation. I need to confirm this so I may be incorrect on how to fix the problem but this is for sure why the buzzer is alarming.

ProjectD

iTrader: (15)

Thank! You and me both lol. How is your project coming?

oo7arkman

iTrader: (2)

Ok. I was incorrect on grounding the black wire. It should plug into a like connection on the harness that includes the alt.

My car is finally back together. I was able to lite the motor on Tuesday! Hopefully he wheels will be back on the ground. This Saturday.