what engine oil is everybody running?
10-17-05, 03:46 PM
#51
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i can understand changing the oil often if you're using the stock omp, but if you premix, it'll last a LONG time. then again, i've got a 9 quart capacity, so 3-4k miles isn't a big deal for me.
01-25-06, 07:53 AM
#57
Originally Posted by 13Beast REW
Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil 20w-50
I was using this untill i started to have problems when i put the turbo on it, after the oil got hot the pressure would be super low 20psi@3000rpms then i switched to castrol gtx 20w-50 and the oil pressure is much better 50psi@3000rpms.
I dont think the VR1 like the High temps of a turbo
01-25-06, 06:02 PM
#59
Plain old Valvoline All-Climate 10W-30 dino juice and OEM filters, changed every 1,000 to 3,000 miles, depending on how much gasoline is in the oil. (A lot, lately.) I also use a bottle of pre-mixed Marvel Mistery Oil in every tankful of gas.
I use Mobile 1 5W-30 in the Corvette and Subaru.
I use Mobile 1 5W-30 in the Corvette and Subaru.
Last edited by Retserof; 01-25-06 at 06:05 PM.
03-26-06, 09:03 PM
#62
Originally Posted by EZFD
I use Amsoil 20 w 50 race oil and a Bosche filter every 2000 miles. I also run premix Amsoil HP injector oil, 4oz. to 20 gal.
also, someone else mentioned it being bad to mix mineral and syn. this is not true.
and to the thread starter... did you really think you could get us to agree on one single oil?!?!
04-23-06, 07:37 PM
#63
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Royal Purple or Idemitsu are the best synths IMHO...but I like Castrol GTX when changing a lot.
My last TII went 170k on ORIGINAL ENGINE before I traded on an FD and it ran great! I believe I had about 100psi to 110psi per chamber if I remember correctly and great oil pressure. Driven 100+ miles per day to work and back! I also ran it VERY hard and fast with no issues.
I used Castrol GTX 10w30 for winter and 20/50 summer. Stock OMP system....and Mazda oil filters....
One tip is this: Check the METAL dipstick and see if the oil is sticking to it evenly (making a good oil film) when checking the level (do this at every gas fill up)...IF it is not making an even oil film on the dip-stick, then it is not sticking to the bearings with a good film of oil either...CHANGE your oill....
Also, IF you smell gas in the oil (most likely after boosting heavily for extended periods
)....change it....
Just my .02 cents in this old thread I just revived...
My last TII went 170k on ORIGINAL ENGINE before I traded on an FD and it ran great! I believe I had about 100psi to 110psi per chamber if I remember correctly and great oil pressure. Driven 100+ miles per day to work and back! I also ran it VERY hard and fast with no issues.
I used Castrol GTX 10w30 for winter and 20/50 summer. Stock OMP system....and Mazda oil filters....
One tip is this: Check the METAL dipstick and see if the oil is sticking to it evenly (making a good oil film) when checking the level (do this at every gas fill up)...IF it is not making an even oil film on the dip-stick, then it is not sticking to the bearings with a good film of oil either...CHANGE your oill....
Also, IF you smell gas in the oil (most likely after boosting heavily for extended periods
)....change it....Just my .02 cents in this old thread I just revived...
04-23-06, 08:06 PM
#65
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chevron, because its free for me. I do my oil changes ever 1-1.5k. I live in cali bay area. I see after 5 pages, no one uses this oil. I do use a mazda oil filter tho =D
08-02-07, 01:39 AM
#68
Ok here's the official scoop on the oil issue.
Now onto Mazda's position on synthetics ... I asked the head of rotary engine development for the past 30 years at Mazda. He designed and built the 787B engine too. In very broken english he told me that not all synthetics are created equal. some are better than others when it comes to mixing with fuel in the oil metering system.
I asked which synthetic oils he does not like. the answer is very surprising. The worst synthetic oil for the rotary according to the smartest rotary engine person in the world is Mobil 1.
Now onto Mazda's position on synthetics ... I asked the head of rotary engine development for the past 30 years at Mazda. He designed and built the 787B engine too. In very broken english he told me that not all synthetics are created equal. some are better than others when it comes to mixing with fuel in the oil metering system.
I asked which synthetic oils he does not like. the answer is very surprising. The worst synthetic oil for the rotary according to the smartest rotary engine person in the world is Mobil 1.
Funny I used Mobil 1 and was told that was a good syn for the rotary.
08-02-07, 10:27 AM
#73
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Why is the majority of Rx7 owners using 20w-50? and is it full synthetic?
The user manual says 10w-30 non synthetic, now i know the user manual was written sometime ago.... I am looking to put full synthetic in my car and was just wondering the best option for myself.
Im in Canada and it gets pretty hot in the summer, would 20w-50 have an advatages during the summer? then say 10w-30 ? (full synthetic both)
The user manual says 10w-30 non synthetic, now i know the user manual was written sometime ago.... I am looking to put full synthetic in my car and was just wondering the best option for myself.
Im in Canada and it gets pretty hot in the summer, would 20w-50 have an advatages during the summer? then say 10w-30 ? (full synthetic both)
08-02-07, 11:01 AM
#75
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castrol gtx here too
used to use idemitsu but couldnt afford to change it every 5k at $100 a case... since changing over I've actually noticed the car runs better with the GTX
used to use idemitsu but couldnt afford to change it every 5k at $100 a case... since changing over I've actually noticed the car runs better with the GTX