What Do You Think of These Engine Builders?
11-30-05, 08:00 PM
#1
What Do You Think of These Engine Builders?
I give up. After two broken socket wrenches and four attempts by four different local shops to remove my front pulley bolt I am giving up and ordering a rebuilt shortblock. Here is a list of builders I have found on this and other forums. Let me know what you think of the builders, stories good and bad.
Atkins Rotary
Rotary Resurrection
Mazdatrix
Mazdarotaryengines.com
Pineapple
rx7.com
rx7store.net
KD Rotary
I have read alot of comments on most of these, but it doesn't seem like there is a consensus on which is best.
Atkins Rotary
Rotary Resurrection
Mazdatrix
Mazdarotaryengines.com
Pineapple
rx7.com
rx7store.net
KD Rotary
I have read alot of comments on most of these, but it doesn't seem like there is a consensus on which is best.
11-30-05, 08:22 PM
#2
development
Originally Posted by nicad2
I give up.
I have read alot of comments on most of these, but it doesn't seem like there is a consensus on which is best.
I have read alot of comments on most of these, but it doesn't seem like there is a consensus on which is best.
you can rebuild an engine for $750 and have it last 100k miles or pay $7k and have it break tuning...it's not rocket science but you have to pay attention to detail and understanding tuning and you'll have your turbo rotary fun.
takes two to tango
11-30-05, 08:22 PM
#3
I dont think there is a "Best engine builder". Most of those shops can build a quality engine or order you a Mazda Reman. Your best bet is if you cant get break the main pulley is go with a Mazda Reman. Most engine builders are going to require a good core and inspect it before refunding a core fee. Have you tried heating up the bolt with a torch?
11-30-05, 08:31 PM
#4
Originally Posted by Jason
I dont think there is a "Best engine builder". Most of those shops can build a quality engine or order you a Mazda Reman. Your best bet is if you cant get break the main pulley is go with a Mazda Reman. Most engine builders are going to require a good core and inspect it before refunding a core fee. Have you tried heating up the bolt with a torch?
Do you think the engine builder would not use any of my core if they can't get the bolt off either? Seems like some of the engine could be used if the bolt was cut off/out.
11-30-05, 08:37 PM
#5
You might check this section:
https://www.rx7club.com/questions-about-members-102/
It's has a lot of good and bad posts for most of those places you listed.
https://www.rx7club.com/questions-about-members-102/
It's has a lot of good and bad posts for most of those places you listed.
11-30-05, 11:09 PM
#7
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Where are you located? I always try to use someone "local" to me, so if there is a problem I can deal eyeball to eyeball. If you are not local to anyone on your list, I would ask for someone within 300 miles. If that doesn't concern you, Kevin at Rotary Resurrection has integrity, great feedback, and priced right. Or you could call me tuner, Rotary RX in Albuquerque, NM. He is rebuilding a REW for me right now, then build a TII hybrid. He is honest and does quality work. His number is 505-922-1115. Ask for Tommy.
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12-01-05, 05:07 AM
#10
Banzai Racing
I can't say we have ever encountered a bolt that couldn't be removed. The most difficult ones need to have the flywheel locked in place and use a 3/4" breaker bar with a jack handle for leverage, but we never use a torch.
12-01-05, 05:24 AM
#11
Originally Posted by BlueTII
I can't say we have ever encountered a bolt that couldn't be removed. The most difficult ones need to have the flywheel locked in place and use a 3/4" breaker bar with a jack handle for leverage, but we never use a torch.
literaly had a 6 foot breaker bar, and still couldnt crack it...
Ended up taking the block to atkins and having them heat it and have 3 people jump on a 3 foot breaker bar to get it to break lose.
Hopefuly this next motor in my black FD is going to be easyer to crack *crosses fingers*
12-01-05, 06:00 AM
#12
If you're interested, send me a PM and I'll give you my builder's info. He's reasonable for what you get. He has over 25 years of building engines, has and built his own lapping table and laps every housings, specs every single parts, and best part, he cranks every engine on a table and goes thru several heat cycles over 3-5 days. I've witness all this (took about 2-3 months to get it back).
By far best builder I've met.
By far best builder I've met.
12-01-05, 07:58 AM
#14
Originally Posted by BlueTII
... The most difficult ones need to have the flywheel locked in place and use a 3/4" breaker bar with a jack handle for leverage....
Seriously though nicad2, when I had my trouble someone correctly suggested it was the quick application of torque that was needed, as in a large impact wrench. Do you have access to one?
Last edited by Sgtblue; 12-01-05 at 08:07 AM.
12-01-05, 12:24 PM
#17
Gone to the dark side
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My engine was built by Rotor Sports Racing in NC, It pulls 20 in/hg at idle. Very strong motor and the local RX-7 Shop here in N.O. (Darrell) was pretty impressed with it as well.
Props to Brian and Rusty...
http://www.rotorsportsracing.com/
Props to Brian and Rusty...
http://www.rotorsportsracing.com/
12-01-05, 03:14 PM
#18
Conclusions and good news!
Conclusions first. Thanks to everyone who provided info, my list has gotten pretty long.
Atkins Rotary
Rotary Resurrection
Mazdatrix
Mazdarotaryengines.com
Pineapple
rx7.com
rx7store.net
KD Rotary
pettitracing.com
Rotary RX in Albuquerque
Pure Sports
Marvelspeed.com
Rotorsportsracing.com
From your comments and from reading the good/bad guys forum I can make at least two conclusions.
1) Rotary Resurrection is highly rated
2) Atkins Rotary has had some recent bad ratings, but is good overall.
It is really hard to say much about the others as there wasn't as much data.
Now for the good news. Around midnight last night I decided to try one more thing before placing my order. Given that the bolt was only tightened to 200 ft*lbs it should have come loose with just my 2' breaker bar. Further, the 700+ ft*lb air gun really should have gotten it off. Therefore, it was clear that the loctite was contributing an incredible amount of resistance. So I checked the Loctite website for how to release this stuff. They claim their standard Loctite breaks down at 325 F. Assuming my propane torch didn't get it that hot, I upped the stakes. Enter the Oxygen+Mapp gas torch! Three minutes with this bad boy and a 4' x 1" pipe and that unholy bolt gave up!
Here is a post I made that describes what I tried. My favorite part was when five Mazda service techs, were in the back of my tiny Nissan truck trying to get that damn bolt out.
http://www.nopistons.com/forums/inde...howtopic=58100
So, for now I will tempt fate and go back to trying the rebuild myself.
Conclusions first. Thanks to everyone who provided info, my list has gotten pretty long.
Atkins Rotary
Rotary Resurrection
Mazdatrix
Mazdarotaryengines.com
Pineapple
rx7.com
rx7store.net
KD Rotary
pettitracing.com
Rotary RX in Albuquerque
Pure Sports
Marvelspeed.com
Rotorsportsracing.com
From your comments and from reading the good/bad guys forum I can make at least two conclusions.
1) Rotary Resurrection is highly rated
2) Atkins Rotary has had some recent bad ratings, but is good overall.
It is really hard to say much about the others as there wasn't as much data.
Now for the good news. Around midnight last night I decided to try one more thing before placing my order. Given that the bolt was only tightened to 200 ft*lbs it should have come loose with just my 2' breaker bar. Further, the 700+ ft*lb air gun really should have gotten it off. Therefore, it was clear that the loctite was contributing an incredible amount of resistance. So I checked the Loctite website for how to release this stuff. They claim their standard Loctite breaks down at 325 F. Assuming my propane torch didn't get it that hot, I upped the stakes. Enter the Oxygen+Mapp gas torch! Three minutes with this bad boy and a 4' x 1" pipe and that unholy bolt gave up!
Here is a post I made that describes what I tried. My favorite part was when five Mazda service techs, were in the back of my tiny Nissan truck trying to get that damn bolt out.
http://www.nopistons.com/forums/inde...howtopic=58100
So, for now I will tempt fate and go back to trying the rebuild myself.
12-01-05, 05:18 PM
#20
Derwin
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I am 50/50 on the subject for the 800 extra I would have sent it to Kevin Landers. For those new parts freaks I would have sent it to Rx-7 Specialties in Calgary, AL, Can.
Just my opinion.
Just my opinion.
12-01-05, 08:14 PM
#21
USE A MAP GAS TORCH! And heat it up good. Propane will not get it hot enough. You have to get the threadlock heated up and it will come off, still with a little work though.
MAP gas is in the yellow bottle. The MAP gas kit with the torch head is around 45 bucks I think.
MAP gas is in the yellow bottle. The MAP gas kit with the torch head is around 45 bucks I think.
12-01-05, 08:29 PM
#23
Originally Posted by zkeller
USE A MAP GAS TORCH! And heat it up good. Propane will not get it hot enough. You have to get the threadlock heated up and it will come off, still with a little work though.
MAP gas is in the yellow bottle. The MAP gas kit with the torch head is around 45 bucks I think.
MAP gas is in the yellow bottle. The MAP gas kit with the torch head is around 45 bucks I think.
See my previous post "Assuming my propane torch didn't get it that hot, I upped the stakes. Enter the Oxygen+Mapp gas torch! Three minutes with this bad boy and a 4' x 1" pipe and that unholy bolt gave up!"
