What do I need for 450+ hp?
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What do I need for 450+ hp?
I want 450 to 500 hp. I'm nuts, I know. But I still want it to be reliable hp. My engine was built by Hayes Rotory. 3mm apex seals, lowered compression 8.4:1 (may be 8.2:1), and other stuff. Don at hayes said I could run upwards of 22 lbs safely with this motor. I'm thinking at least these mods:
- Big turbo (don't know size of lbs of boost i'd have to run)
- RRFPR
- injectors (don't know for pri and sec)
- fuel pump (I have the ultimate FP from shane racing, Ray said good up to 500hp)
- ignition (has anyone seen the MSD setup in the latest edition of Sport Compact Car magazine?)
- ECU (running PFC)
- the usual mods (cat-back, midpipe, etc.)
Also, does having the intake manifold extrude honed and getting a bigger throttle body make a difference in when aiming for high hp #'s?
I was also looking at a water cooled turbo. I talked to Ric Stephens at Race Redi Motorsports here in San Antonio. Some of you may have seen Ric's purple miata (fastest e.t. 10.98), he races against Ari. He said water cooled turbos make no difference and have the same lifespan of non water cooled turbos. Why make water cooled turbos then? What have you guys heard on this?
Thanks guys, Crazy_Jake
- Big turbo (don't know size of lbs of boost i'd have to run)
- RRFPR
- injectors (don't know for pri and sec)
- fuel pump (I have the ultimate FP from shane racing, Ray said good up to 500hp)
- ignition (has anyone seen the MSD setup in the latest edition of Sport Compact Car magazine?)
- ECU (running PFC)
- the usual mods (cat-back, midpipe, etc.)
Also, does having the intake manifold extrude honed and getting a bigger throttle body make a difference in when aiming for high hp #'s?
I was also looking at a water cooled turbo. I talked to Ric Stephens at Race Redi Motorsports here in San Antonio. Some of you may have seen Ric's purple miata (fastest e.t. 10.98), he races against Ari. He said water cooled turbos make no difference and have the same lifespan of non water cooled turbos. Why make water cooled turbos then? What have you guys heard on this?
Thanks guys, Crazy_Jake
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Originally posted by the_glass_man
Hayes Motor? Hmm. I would go with a T04S from XS or TO4R from HKS if you want a kit. If you want to do it yourself, I would go with a T66, not sure about the trim. What do you want to do with the car?
Hayes Motor? Hmm. I would go with a T04S from XS or TO4R from HKS if you want a kit. If you want to do it yourself, I would go with a T66, not sure about the trim. What do you want to do with the car?
But nobody really says anything. Just "Hayes huh?" and
"Oh, you got it built from Hayes?". What's so bad about Hayes? As far as what I want to do with the car? I want to run mid to low 11 sec e.t.'s on street tires and be able to roast damn near everything on the street. I've thought about a NOS shot also. The ceramic and MOS2 coatings on the rotors should help with that.
I
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Yeah exactly what cash money said, also if you are going single turbo, either get the pfc datalogit software, get your pfc tuned by xs, or get a different ecu. Also with that kind of power, especially getting closer to 500hp I would switch to a ACT 6 puck clutch. Which would make the car a little harsh for driving on the street.
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once your car is tuned, and if its tuned right is should be reliable if you dont change anything.. Lot of people blow their motor when they try to get more power.. look at abel's car he has like 800 hp motor, and that motor lasted like 1 1/2 years..
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Originally posted by cash money
because Hayes has a reputation for building terrible motors, i hope yours is one they accedently built well
because Hayes has a reputation for building terrible motors, i hope yours is one they accedently built well
How long do they last before letting go? And next time who is the **** for building motors?
#10
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Originally posted by Crazy_Jake
And next time who is the **** for building motors?
And next time who is the **** for building motors?
KDR
MazdaTrix
RotaryPerformance
The Guys from NJ like JR's Rotary Performance
I would stick with one of those guys, or build it yourself.
You can get a 5 year warranty from Rob @ Pineapple Racing!!!
Last edited by the_glass_man; 03-02-02 at 09:09 PM.
#14
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Originally posted by ek9220ps
Jeff at Rotary Power built motor for adam, and abel, he started building motor since the 80s. He dont let anyone else builts them. no helpers.. he like to do it himself...
Jeff at Rotary Power built motor for adam, and abel, he started building motor since the 80s. He dont let anyone else builts them. no helpers.. he like to do it himself...
#15
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Hayes claims over 23 years of development and research experience. Sounds like maybe some people didn't break in their motor correctly or improper tuning lead to a blown motor, and then the rumor mill started turning. I can't see a company staying in business for 23 years if they built faulty motors. Or, I could be screwed.
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Last month, there was a race.
Here is a data about engine spec.
HKS TO4E 0.9bar boost , 360ps, 40kg torq
HKS TO4E 1.0bar boost , 373ps, 40kg torq
HKS TO4S 0.9bar boost , 475ps, 44.5 kg torq
HKS TO4R 1.0bar boost , 400ps, ??? torq
HKS TO4R 1.2bar boost , 500ps, 51kg torq
TRUST T78-29D 1.0bar boost, 400ps, 40kg torq
TRUST T78-33D 0.9bar boost, 428ps, ??? torq
TRUST T88-33D 1.2bar boost, 600ps, 57kg torq
HKS GT3037 twin 1.2bar boost, 721ps, 76kg torq
Here is a data about engine spec.
HKS TO4E 0.9bar boost , 360ps, 40kg torq
HKS TO4E 1.0bar boost , 373ps, 40kg torq
HKS TO4S 0.9bar boost , 475ps, 44.5 kg torq
HKS TO4R 1.0bar boost , 400ps, ??? torq
HKS TO4R 1.2bar boost , 500ps, 51kg torq
TRUST T78-29D 1.0bar boost, 400ps, 40kg torq
TRUST T78-33D 0.9bar boost, 428ps, ??? torq
TRUST T88-33D 1.2bar boost, 600ps, 57kg torq
HKS GT3037 twin 1.2bar boost, 721ps, 76kg torq
#18
Super Snuggles
Originally posted by the_glass_man
Ask JimLab what he thinks about Hayes?
Ask JimLab what he thinks about Hayes?
0 miles on my motor, but I got less than half of the porting I paid for, and what was done was the sloppiest work I've seen. The 3mm ceramic apex seals were supposed to require machining the rotors, but they substituted 3mm rotors from an '85, I believe (heavier). I was also supposed to have them machined for "lower compression" and that was a crock, too. An '89 eccentric shaft instead of a machined '95 (mine) like I paid for. And the plates had been lapped so many times that there was almost no groove left for the silicone water jacket O-rings, so they split and spooled out of the groove when the bolts were torqued down. But other than that...
Oh yeah, and they pocketed my ~6,000 mile 1995 engine which only needed a rotor and a housing. But other than that...
Oh yeah, and they built another engine very similar to mine at the same time and pocketed his brand new (Mazda Comp) rotors and housings (2 each) and substituted used parts. His motor blew after 500 miles, and after Hayes first blamed him, then refused to honor any warranty, the car went to Tri-Point who said, and I quote, that it was "the worst porting they'd ever seen. The housings were absolute junk". His 3mm ceramic apex seals (same as mine) were supposed to have had the rotors machined for them. Instead, Hayes substituted 3mm rotors, the ceramic seals bound up because the gap was wrong, and they cracked during break-in.
But other than that...
Hayes has a very well earned reputation for bad business practices, and I live only 3 or 4 miles away from them and received this kind of service.
Good luck with your engine. I'd check the compression and see if your rotors truly are "low compression" rotors. BTW, you can run 22 psi with proper fuel *without* having the rotors "machined". That was one of the things that Don suckered me into paying for, also. Lessons learned.
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Originally posted by jimlab
Yeah, ask Jimlab what he thinks of Hayes.
0 miles on my motor, but I got less than half of the porting I paid for, and what was done was the sloppiest work I've seen. The 3mm ceramic apex seals were supposed to require machining the rotors, but they substituted 3mm rotors from an '85, I believe (heavier). I was also supposed to have them machined for "lower compression" and that was a crock, too. An '89 eccentric shaft instead of a machined '95 (mine) like I paid for. And the plates had been lapped so many times that there was almost no groove left for the silicone water jacket O-rings, so they split and spooled out of the groove when the bolts were torqued down. But other than that...
Oh yeah, and they pocketed my ~6,000 mile 1995 engine which only needed a rotor and a housing. But other than that...
Oh yeah, and they built another engine very similar to mine at the same time and pocketed his brand new (Mazda Comp) rotors and housings (2 each) and substituted used parts. His motor blew after 500 miles, and after Hayes first blamed him, then refused to honor any warranty, the car went to Tri-Point who said, and I quote, that it was "the worst porting they'd ever seen. The housings were absolute junk". His 3mm ceramic apex seals (same as mine) were supposed to have had the rotors machined for them. Instead, Hayes substituted 3mm rotors, the ceramic seals bound up because the gap was wrong, and they cracked during break-in.
But other than that...
Hayes has a very well earned reputation for bad business practices, and I live only 3 or 4 miles away from them and received this kind of service.
Good luck with your engine. I'd check the compression and see if your rotors truly are "low compression" rotors. BTW, you can run 22 psi with proper fuel *without* having the rotors "machined". That was one of the things that Don suckered me into paying for, also. Lessons learned.
Yeah, ask Jimlab what he thinks of Hayes.
0 miles on my motor, but I got less than half of the porting I paid for, and what was done was the sloppiest work I've seen. The 3mm ceramic apex seals were supposed to require machining the rotors, but they substituted 3mm rotors from an '85, I believe (heavier). I was also supposed to have them machined for "lower compression" and that was a crock, too. An '89 eccentric shaft instead of a machined '95 (mine) like I paid for. And the plates had been lapped so many times that there was almost no groove left for the silicone water jacket O-rings, so they split and spooled out of the groove when the bolts were torqued down. But other than that...
Oh yeah, and they pocketed my ~6,000 mile 1995 engine which only needed a rotor and a housing. But other than that...
Oh yeah, and they built another engine very similar to mine at the same time and pocketed his brand new (Mazda Comp) rotors and housings (2 each) and substituted used parts. His motor blew after 500 miles, and after Hayes first blamed him, then refused to honor any warranty, the car went to Tri-Point who said, and I quote, that it was "the worst porting they'd ever seen. The housings were absolute junk". His 3mm ceramic apex seals (same as mine) were supposed to have had the rotors machined for them. Instead, Hayes substituted 3mm rotors, the ceramic seals bound up because the gap was wrong, and they cracked during break-in.
But other than that...
Hayes has a very well earned reputation for bad business practices, and I live only 3 or 4 miles away from them and received this kind of service.
Good luck with your engine. I'd check the compression and see if your rotors truly are "low compression" rotors. BTW, you can run 22 psi with proper fuel *without* having the rotors "machined". That was one of the things that Don suckered me into paying for, also. Lessons learned.
I think I'm gonna cry. This car has a curse on it. Anyone ever hear of a car making someone commit suicide? I may be the first.
#21
I guess I was fortunate when Hayes built my 13B.
Sucks to hear what Jim went through.
I've heard simliar stories from others.
I would definitely check compression on your engine before thinking of some sort of impending doom.
As far as reliable horsepower, I would definitely substitute your ECU for something more robust and adjustable (Haltech, Motec, TEC, AEM, etc).
As far as etruding your intake, every little bit counts.
However, concentrate on the big factors first (ECU, motor, fuel, ignition, exhaust, etc).
J
Sucks to hear what Jim went through.
I've heard simliar stories from others.
I would definitely check compression on your engine before thinking of some sort of impending doom.
As far as reliable horsepower, I would definitely substitute your ECU for something more robust and adjustable (Haltech, Motec, TEC, AEM, etc).
As far as etruding your intake, every little bit counts.
However, concentrate on the big factors first (ECU, motor, fuel, ignition, exhaust, etc).
J
#22
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Originally posted by AJatx
As far as reliable horsepower, I would definitely substitute your ECU for something more robust and adjustable (Haltech, Motec, TEC, AEM, etc).
J
As far as reliable horsepower, I would definitely substitute your ECU for something more robust and adjustable (Haltech, Motec, TEC, AEM, etc).
J