lopedl

iTrader: (1)

Okay I have done plenty of researching on my fd but haven't come up with all the answers I am interested in. I know a bunch of people explained to me some of the information I needed but the research and answers weren't all I was looking for.


What I'm interested in doing is being able to tune my car to capabilities of 300-350 hp at the wheels on stock turbos, but no one ever talks about in detail how they did it.

I know there are different combinations you can use to gain hp. IE aftermarket parts, ??hp bigger intercooler and wastegate, 10-20hp on downpipe & midpipe, ??hp cat back exhaust, 5-10hp intake, ??hp elimination of the cat, ?hp better fuel management, ?hp ecu, and of course bigger and better boost to the engine. But can anyone explain which combinations are the best and what kind of parts would be neccessary to accomidate the upgrades, (ie name brands ect.).

I am in the middle of piecing the part back together and would like to spend the money for the performance parts that I need now than spending money on stock parts and installing performance parts later just a waste of $ to me.

I'm mostly in need of information on the fuel upgrades ie, what kind of computer upgrades would be necessary, what size fuel injectors cc's would be needed to equalize the increased a/f mixture, along with fuel pump, and fuel lines or if stock parts can be used. What amount of boost pressure to use. I'd rather get information from you guys who know about the fd, than from my local backyard turbo mechanic.

I'll admit I'm a complete novice who needs some guidence when it comes to turbos, and I wanted be specific that the information would be towards our fd's since most of the information out there on turbos is geared toward pistons, and wasn't sure if the information would be accurate towards the fd.

particleeffect

down pipe - any
mid pipe - any
intake - any
cat back - any
intercooler - almost any
fuel pump - supra tt or other high flow pump
stand alone ECU + tuning.

no single piece will give you much safe power gain because you always need to be tuned for the power via the ECU.

throw in some 850cc injectors into the primary slots and you should be able to make 350-370? (can't remember the cap on that fuel setup)

most would suggest not starting with the original unrebuilt engine (street port, new seals and hoses everywhere). and also some reliability things like a nice radiator and aluminum AST. you should already have a temp and boost guage.

nillviod

intake, downpipe, catback, and reprogrammed ECU -- 290HP-300HP for 2k

particleeffect

i do agree.

Trexthe3rd

Wastegate?? First off, you cannot change the wastegate on the stock turbos, it is internal. The only thing you can do is port it to prevent boost creep when you start to free up intake and exhaust. And it does nothing for you performance wise.

DP and MP is the SAME THING as eliminating the cat

ECU is fuel management. They are not two different items.
First:
As someone mentioned, it really doesn't matter what brand you get, all of them will work to achieve what you want, it just personal preference and asthetics (ie. catback A is louderthen catback B etc)
Second:
Is 300-350 going to satisfy your need? Or will you be pushing for more later?
If the answer is yes, then use the following list:

Intake ~$300.00
DP ~$150.00
MP or high flow cat ~$150.00
Catback ~$700.00
Boost controller ~$350.00
Reprogrammed ECU ~$350.00
Intercooler ~$800.00
Total $2800.00 (the prices are approximate avg)
(I have this setup and dyno proven 350 rwhp at 16 psi)

If the answer is no and you plan on making bigger power in the future then take the above list and add the following:
Programmable ECU ~ $1300.00 (in place of reprog ECU)
Fuel pump ~$110.00
Fuel injectors ~$ 200.00 (2 large secondaries)
Fuel rail ~$170.00
Total cost $4230.00
(This does not include the labor for installation and tuning, and DOES NOT give you any improvment in performance from the above list. It is simply what you would need to SUPPORT larger hp increases in the future, ie. single turbo)

Hope this answers your question.

Trexthe3rd

This would only be at the crank, not at the wheel.

user 9348703

Trexthe3rd--"DP and MP is the SAME THING as eliminating the cat"

I took that from you. A DP and MP are not the same, or did I miss what your saying?

Trexthe3rd

Let's try it this way:
Installing a DP and MP is the same thing as eliminating the catalytic converter.

user 9348703

Still dont get it.

Mid pipe is the CAT
Down pipe/Front pip PRE CAT correct?

I can elminate my CAT but just removing the CAT/MIDPIPE

Im tired, so that may not be helping

technonovice

I've seen 280-300 rwhp staying under 12psi with these mods:

Cold air intake
Intercooler
Downpipe
Hi-flo cat
Catback
Power FC (tuned)

fdeeznutz

read my sig. My car was only at 10 psi

Mr. Stock

You need pretty much all the bolt on mods to reach 300-360 RWHP.

That means, as stated above by other posters, you need to get
open intake
upgraded intercooler
downpipe
midpipe or high flow cat
less restrictive catback
upgraded ECU
Running 12-14 PSI

Mr. Stock

Not to nitpick, but that seems pricey to me.
Don't the catbacks run around $500?

ek9220ps

iTrader: (4)

If your car a daily driver you should get a hi flow cat vs. a mid pipe. Also the hi flow cat will give you more mid range hp, that will be a plus for a street car. For exhaust don’t waste your money on the biggest and loud exhaust you can find. Go with a a quite exhaust like a m2 or racing beat dual tip. I had a HKS ti racing exhaust and it was too loud for the streets. And the smell is bad. Right now im using the racing beat dual tip with a mp. Im planning get a hi flow cat later.

-Intercooler v-mount- would be a great choice if you have the money.

-Compter: $1200 you cant go wrong with a apex pfc, make should you get it tune don’t blowyour motor with a untuned map like I did.

-Datalogit- tune computer
-Wideband 02- tuning

-Flywheel- 17lbs good for drag racing and hills.

-Boost control- greddy profec b (keep it simple no cutting into your computer harness
like the apex unit)

Fuel pump- supra or even better a nissan skyline

GsrSol

Lets shoot for the middle - 325rwhp

You do not need bigger injectors nor do you need a stand alone ecu. Although a stand alone would help alot.

On a properly running stock motor and turbos you should get close to that number with dp, mp, cb, good intake, pulleys, fuel pump, i/c, Pettit Unlimited ecu, and about 12psi(boost controller).

The precat is replaced by a downpipe, and the main cat is replaced with a midpipe.

moehler

iTrader: (12)

my sig gives me 300 rwhp...

lopedl

iTrader: (1)

Okay so it sounds like porting the wastegates might not be all that beneficial for what I am looking for, because I could just prevent boost creep by lowering the boost levels.

Yeah I want to stay at 300-350 because it sounds like it doesn't take much, its affordable, less stress on the engine than maybe stock and definetly a 450 monster, and if I ever wanted to sell it (not that I will) it will be easier to convert it back to stock.

lopedl

iTrader: (1)

Okay so what would be the benefit of installing a dp and mp if I could just put on a testpipe for $50 and it does the same thing.

And what if any is the benefit of doing all three dp, mp, tp.

lopedl

iTrader: (1)

ANd about intercoolers I have heard a few things:

The bigger the better!

Just because it is bigger does not mean its better, it just means it now takes more time to fill the capacity of the intercooler with air to work efficiently!

the closer, and shorter the pluming the intercooler has the better!

lopedl

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for your help guys, if you have any more suggestions please tell.

Trexthe3rd

The ultimate goal in modifying the exhaust is to free up the flow path. In reality, there is nothing in the dp and mp it's just straight through. The catback is s different matter (hence the big price tag)
I'm not sure where you are going to get a "test pipe" and how you are going to attach it to the exhaust manifold.

Quote:

And what if any is the benefit of doing all three dp, mp, tp.

If tp stands for your "test pipe" mentioned before, not sure what that has anything to do with the dp,mp. As for the benefit, it's just as I said, free flow, no restrictions (if you can handle all the noise).

DCrosby

I can all day long, will my neighbors and the police is the question

GarageBoy

You MUST run some sort of muffler in the exhuast or you will deafen the block. Basic intake, exhaust, fuel and a Manual Boost Controller will help you get there. An ECU will stop the engine from blowing up.

nillviod

The chart shows RWHP on a dyno. I think the m2 stage II ecu limits boost around 12psi. The blue color is with the following mods:

Reprogrammed ECU
M2 Cold Air Intake System
3" Stainless Cat-back Exhaust
M2 3" T-304 Stainless Downpipe

The cost is 2000 bucks ^_^ (It would be cheaper if you bought a used ECU)

Also, can you please explain to me how you boost 16psi on the stock fuel pump and injectors?

fastrx7man

iTrader: (63)

See sig for all info....