MazdaSpeed93

So this problem just started. I will be driving along during the day and nothing happens but then at night when i turn on my lights and in 2nd gear or any gear the car starts bucking really bad around 2700rpms. If i just hold the gas it comes out of it but then when i let off the gas and push the gas again it starts doing it again. I narrowed it down to my lights because it was bucking pretty bad and i turned my lights off and it smoothed out then i turned the lights back on and a few seconds later started bucking again. The feeling is like when you are in 2nd gear at like 4000rpms and bounce your foot on the gas it jerks really bad. I have been told maybe altenator but not sure. Thanks in advance

dis1

Yea, sounds like you aren't getting enough juice. Since you got that advice already have you checked the alternator yet? Start there and let us know.

MazdaSpeed93

Will do thanks

car hugger

iTrader: (1)

Check the battery as well.

1QWIK7

iTrader: (33)

Same exact problem i had last summer.

Problem was battery along with no enough grounds.

So i bought a yellow top and added 3 more grounds and problem went away.

Hope that helps.

MazdaSpeed93

Thanks, i bought the car 2 years ago and i have never done anything with the battery. I will check everything out.

1QWIK7

iTrader: (33)

Yeah

Let me rephrase my post.

I added more grounds, not that the stock grounds arent efficient enough although after 13 some odd years, im pretty sure its inefficient now unless you clean them etc.

So yeah, i added 3 additional grounds and didnt bother touching the stock grounds.

Problem went away though.

Good luck.

CantGoStraight

This car sucks for grounding, any help you can give it will help. One ground that usually goes away and doesn't get replaced is the one on the exhaust (connects where the main cat and catback are bolted together, with bad grounding and higher electrical loads (lights on, A/C, rear defroster, all of them) the voltage across the sensors and power to the ECU will change and cause all sorts of issues.

MazdaSpeed93

i changed out my exhaust and i believe that ground is gone if i remember. I will get a voltmeter and check terminals and add that ground to the exhaust. Thanks for all the help.

fitzrx7

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, I'm having some funky electrical issues myself. I would say throw another ground from the negative battery terminal to the empty threaded bolt hole just infront of the drivers side strut tower in the engine bay and replace the one on the back motor hoist point and see if that helps you out.

As for me I'll be running a new 2 gauge wire from my relocated battery in the back all the way up to the front because I think the 5 year old 4 gauge wire is the source of my voltage drop problem.

MazdaSpeed93

I'll throw a couple more grounds on and see what happens, what guage wire is used for that, i was told once but forgot.

fitzrx7, i think you told me what guage, or i could just buy the hyperground grounding straps

MazdaSpeed93

Well i took my car down to the local Auto Zone to do a test on the charging system. At a idle the car read 14amps sometimes 13 but then under a load revving a little bit it dipped down to 11amps so i believe i will change/add some grounding straps then if that doesnt work then i will buy an alternator somewhere. Any ideas?

MazdaSpeed93

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jbust

iTrader: (16)

add some grounds all over first, that should fix it.

john

CantGoStraight

The alternator doesn't sound right, my car has low voltage at idle (I'm assumming you meant voltage not amps) and the voltage should increase with rpm till the voltage regulator limits the volatage at I would hope no more than 14.5 much more than this tends to cook the batteries. If you add load the voltage should drop then recover with added RPM again not to exceed the max. Our alternators will barely hold the 14v level with everything running (I'm talking touring now) that's all the wipers, A/C-fan on 4, defroster, head lights on high beam stereo, if it can be turned on then that's would be your max load and you should see 13.5v at least. Any way you get the idea on what you need to find out to know if you have a good charging system.

MazdaSpeed93

I took it to another place today and they checked the voltage with the a/c and lights on and it read 13.5v so i dont know. it didnt do it tonight or last night.

I tried to get a picture on here but i couldnt, but in front the the uim and by the altenator there is a black little box with two hoses coming off the right side of it going underneath of it. What is that little black box? There was a hose popped off so i looked underneath and seen a spot for 2 hoses to go but i only had one hose and put it back on the way i think it should be and left the other spot open with no hose. The other hose popped off when i took off my y-pipe putting on the downpipe. There was a black circle piece hooking the hose off of the black box to the hose going to the y-pipe. well that black circle peice broke so we taped it back together so i dont know what that it either. Sorry for what pay be a confusing story but that is the best i could describe it. I looked at fitzrx7's car and he didnt have that black box. Let me know thanks and sorry again.

fitzrx7

iTrader: (1)

dude, you are talking about the pressure tank I think. You need to find a picture of the factory service manual and study the **** out of that vaccum hose diagram or you will never get your car running right. A good place to start is robrobinette.com (i think I spelled that right) Spend about 50 hours reading that whole site, like I did, and you will be in a much better place.

BTW, my car has none of that bullshhh, me = single turbo, so no need for vacuum chambers/pressure chambers or rats nest, I have like 6 lines, and I can see every one of them

fitzrx7

iTrader: (1)

BTW, running the new 2 gauge wire from front battery terminal to my relocated battery in the back plus adding another 4 awg piece from my battery to ground has GREATLY improved my starter RPM, so much that my car will actually start now when it's hot...hoooraaay!

MazdaSpeed93

i have been on robrobinette.com plenty of times but i am going to go back there once again. i am going to go single eventually so i can't wait for that, i was thinking bnr stage 3 turbos but i thought naw got with t78 or gt35r. anyone know where i can get an acutal service manual for this i have looked but can only find computer discs.

MazdaSpeed93

i tried to get onto robrobinette.com but it isnt working right now, and are you talking about the shop manual that you buy seperate or just the manual that comes with the car?

MazdaSpeed93

Here is a picture of what i am talking about.

MazdaSpeed93

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MazdaSpeed93

Any more ideas on why this is all happening? Thanks

CantGoStraight

Are you unable to download the FSM stikied at the top of this forum ? ? ? ? It's got everything.

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

The part you are referring to (the one in yellow in your pic) is your pressure tank as fitz already told you. That is related to your stock seq system and has nothing to do with the problems you're having.

I think I *may* have the solution to your problems. It will require you removing the front bumper to get at them, but there are a pair of grounds for each headlight motor that may have worked their way loose.