stalkn_etsv8s

hey all,
ive been mucking around trying to take a few pounds out of my car mainly to counteract the few ive put on lately!! plus try save a few tenths down the 1/4 mile

so far i have removed:

a/c and all associated parts
power steer and associated parts
front bumper reinforcement
rear speakers and support frames
rear spoiler
rear wiper motor/washer bottle & wiring
under bonnet sound deading
of course i have aftermarket exhaust,filters, fmi.

im trying to keep the basic creature comforts like cd player,heater etc and cant afford carbon panels anyone got some ideas?

would going to an alloy radiator and aftermarket fans make much difference?

SLOASFK

iTrader: (5)

most aftermarket rads weigh more than stock, though that'd be smart to upgrade anyway.

You might want to start removing unnessecary interior pieces, like the bins, divider, carpets, hatch plastics, spare tire/jack, etc.

You could also remove things like the engine lift points to save a couple pounds. They can be reattached when the engine is being pulled.

Going single turbo will save some weight and obviously increase power.

stalkn_etsv8s

engine lifts points are a good idea thanks,

im trying to keep interior looking stock at this stage. spare wheel etc are removed for racing. single turbo would be nice but then i wouldnt really need to save weight as the extra power would more than make up for it

s1mpsons

iTrader: (5)

EDIT: https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ghlight=weight

Supernaut

iTrader: (83)

At this point, it might be easier, cheaper and more effective if you lost weight haaaa.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ECA_stack

What kind of wheels are you running? You can remove your passenger seat on runs to. The stock ones are heavy.

OneRotor

iTrader: (3)

.

Cgotto6

iTrader: (8)

You kinda got me confused here. You want to loose weight...But your not willing to "gut" the car in any way further than it is now? It seems you have removed most of the items that your willing to part with, so other than ditching the interior, going to carbon body parts, or things like single turbo or lighter rims I dont see what else there really is.

It seems your into drag racing, you could always delete the ABS system, and/or the torsion bars.

Supernaut

iTrader: (83)

Getting lighter seats is an option.

turbojeff

iTrader: (30)

The stock seats are really that heavy.

XxMerlinxX

iTrader: (2)

Where can you actually get lexan for the rear hatch? Is it still molded to match the contour of the stock glass?

Monkman33

iTrader: (28)

Just do P90x. Eventually you'll have to remove so much from the car that it is no longer fun. But if you remove enough from yourself... its awesome!

catch-22

iTrader: (2)

can i have your rear washer tank?

Supernaut

iTrader: (83)

I was going to make a joke about this but I have heard good things about p90x.

Brent Dalton

iTrader: (31)

Mazda Motorsports.

I've heard most windshield replacement companies can also do Lexan. I have never looked into it though.

Supernaut

iTrader: (83)

How cheap is lexan? The OP did mention he didn't have enough for CF panels.

FDWarrior

iTrader: (6)

The interior in an FD is not really that heavy. I have stripped out every possible thing a person could think of in my FD, due to being a race car. When I say everything I mean everything, even removed all of the sound deadening. I have also gone through the chassis and removed everything I don't need like power steering, unused wiring, and systems like ac/heat. With my car being an engine, and seat basically it weighed in at 2480 with my roll cage, and 2380 without it (without me in the car). I guess Im trying to say there is not a as much weight to remove as people think, some will argue that every pound counts but not on a street car. I would just leave the interior in the car, and run it like you have it.

Supernaut

iTrader: (83)

Wow 2380 is quite quite a significant reduction.

Brent Dalton

iTrader: (31)

I agree... if it's a street car, I wouldn't mess with the interior too much. It sounds like it's a street car though since you mentioned you wanted to keep the radio. If it's not, you can get them pretty light....

My FD with LS1 weighed in at 2254lbs dry(with full cage... even in the engine bay). I figure 50lbs for fluids and 100lbs for gas should put me right at 2400lbs. I'm actually working to add some weight to my car currently so I can fit into a different power to weight class without reducing my hp as much.

stalkn_etsv8s

if i still had it i'd send it to you. If your desperate to find one have a look on www.trademe.co.nz heaps of jdm rx7s getting sold as parts and with the exchange rate cheap as chips! I dont mind helping out if need be.


Yes the car is a street car/weekend warrior. I wanted to have the appearance of "street trim" when at the track but still be able to run some numbers.
I will definitely be using the stock rims since my 19's are nearly 30lbs heavier per corner!
Lexan although easy to get is not street legal here so cant change out the windows unfortunately.


Dynoed car yesterday and made 281kw on 18psi with stock simplified sequential turbos, 98octane 10% ethanol pump gas.

Running down the strip on the 17th so will be interesting...........

stalkn_etsv8s

Abs has been removed and braided brake lines fitted. This would have to be the most satisfying mod i have done! Braking is so much better,more feel and more controllable.

The reason i dont want to "gut" the interior is once you start doing that the car becomes more and more a race car not a streeter. Theres enough riced out integras/civics over here running nothing but a drivers seat and a tacho . Im going for the "you could drive that car daily and still lay down an 11" look

FDWarrior

iTrader: (6)

It is, but that weight is kind of a false sense of my car's actual weight. 2380 was achieved without my cage, and me in it. I can't race without a cage, or myself so true on-track weight with me, and cage would be 2650. The cage weighs 110lbs, and I weigh 160lbs. I hope to trim some true on-track weight by having a custom cage put in in the spring. The autopower is a super heave cage.

quickseven

iTrader: (3)

In terms of the weight of wheels......Does this make a difference while on the Dyno? Are you going to make more power with the stock rims vs the super heavy 19's stated above? Or would this not matter at all?

FDWarrior

iTrader: (6)

The 19's will be more mass the engine has to rotate. A light wheel will benefit acceleration, and dose factor into the over all weight of the car. I would say the difference between big 19's and say 17's would be noticeable. In terms of horse power, the engine will have the same power no matter what wheel you run. You can make your car faster by making the engine's job easier. More weight will lower the power to weight ratio.

stalkn_etsv8s

On a rolling road the car is driving against the resistance in the rollers not moving any physical mass. On the track/road however the less physical mass (weight) the car has to move the quicker it will be, the less un sprung weight (wheels and tires) less effort is needed to get the initial movement ie off the line.

Thats my amateur understanding experts please feel free to correct me,
oops looks like FDwarrior beat me to it

quickseven

iTrader: (3)

Alright I understand how it works on the street. I can notice a difference between my stock wheels and the chrome 18's I have in terms of driveability. I was just curious if this would make a difference on the actual Dyno. So theoretically if I make 400rwhp on the stock wheels and then switch them with the heavy chrome 18's I have it should duplicate the results (400rwhp) without any power loss. Obviously no run is exactly the same but just in terms of the subject were talking about.