hi all

long story short

a) i needed to find my engine number so i removed my alternator

b) with the alternator off i found a minor coolant leak coming from the long waterpump bolt that also supports the alternator tensioning arm

c) i removed the airbox and then the waterpump to find that the waterpump gasket looks to have been replaced before and probably wasn't the cause of the leak

so now i suspect the waterpump housing gasket between the waterpump housing and the front of the engine

i started taking off the airpump but stopped when i saw the denso warning sticker saying, "never remove the airpump"

just checked the pdf manuals and on the parts diagram i can see the gasket i want to check and the waterpump housing but couldn't find any removal procedure

anyone want to give me pointers on waterpump housing removal?
( iknow to be very careful of the OML's)

 

after looking at the drawings again i went ahead and removed the airpump, then the rest of the coolant lines to the waterpump housing, (THAT'S what takes the time), and the 3 electrical connections, finally pulled the housing forward enough to see that housing to engine gasket

but had to stop there as the OML stopped further forward movement

the gasket looks ok

pondering.......

 

I have a coolant leak as well on my R1. I to am thinking that the rear housing gasket is bad. From the looks of things it seems like a harder job then I was thinking it would be.

 

if you look closely at the bottom of the 1st pic you can see 2 oil metering lines terminating at small banjo bolts, much like a bike's hydraulic brake banjos

getting those 2 off looks to be pretty easy, but i am concerned about having to move them around enough to get them past the housing

not sure where the other 2 finish but it looks like they need to come off from below, so that means jacking and undertray removal

eric e

this had better solve that little leak!

 

I've pulled my water pump off twice. I just loosened the OML bolts and had enough slack to slip the pump off the bolts. IMO, once you've pulled that thing you should replace the gasket to prevent any leaking. The airpump warning is stupid too. I've pulled it more than once too and haven't had any trouble. Just be sure the old gasket is completely cleaned off so your new one has a smooth clean surface to seal.

 

The sticker "Don't remove the air pump" doesn't mean don't remove it to work on the car. It means don't remove it from the car, just like the precat, the main cat, the EGR.....you know the polution stuff. LOL If you take the lower radiator hose off you can actually twist, lift and turn it right out of there without ever unhooking the OMP lines. Be careful not to loose the litle metal spacer theat goes between two of the bolts on the left of the pump housing between the housing and the motor. Jack

 

You will also have to double nut the long studs and remove the studs from the front of the engine if you want a snowball's chance in _ell of getting it out . I made my own gaskets out of a rubberized papaer gasket material that worked really well. Jack

 

Now remove the IC, battery, air pump. Then disconnect the OMP lines. Take out the brace that ac lines run across and the battery is sitting on. Finally just slide the housing out. Once out sand down around and clean where the gasket would go. Do the same on the engine side. Put some CTV (water pump housing sealant) on it and slide it back together. Put it all back to together let it sit overnight to let the CTV set, then fill it up with coolant.

 

thanks for the info guys

double-nutting did the trick.

backed the studs out and then carefully moved the housing out around the OML. left the battery and Intercooler in as there seemed to be enough space

used 1000grit wet'n'dry and a sanding block to carefully clean up the alloy on the gasket surfaces

thinking about putting the FC fan thermoswitch in while i'm in there

got to go and buy all the parts now

eric e

 

Did you notice the thin metal spacer that goes behind the water pump housing ??

Replace these hoses now.


backed the studs out and then carefully moved the housing out around the OML. left the battery and Intercooler in as there seemed to be enough space

used 1000grit wet'n'dry and a sanding block to carefully clean up the alloy on the gasket surfaces

thinking about putting the FC fan thermoswitch in while i'm in there

 

can't see your pics in the post, but guess you mean the weird looking thin plate that goes between the 2 holes directly behind the thermostat housing, wonder what it does other than space those studs out around half a mm

will post a pic of it next post

which hoses do you recommend changing?

eric e

 

Um....I guess if you host a friggin picture you have to leave it on the site LOL !!! See if I can fix it. Jack I think it's to help with the gasket (keep it from crushing down on the one side ) ???? The pictures should be back (-:

 

Just got the housing off using the double nut method and leaving the OML's in place. Now I need to find out what the 2 sensors on the housing are for. The lower sensor marked with the red circle I found that the wire was broken at the plug. The other one in green seems to be fine. If the one in red is for temp may look at just getting an aftermarket one.


thanks,

 

One is thermos sensor, the other is thermo switch. The black/brown connector single wire should be the sensor. the green connector with the teo wires should be your thermo switch. FSM will verify.

 

Correction needed. The thermoswitch is the one wire black connector one in the picture, the thermo sensor for the ecu is the green connector with two wires. I now know this because I needed to replace the green connector two wire one because it broke into two peices, but you said it was "the green connector with the teo wires should be your thermo switch", so I called up Ray at Malloy mazda and told him I needed a new thermoswitch. The thermoswitch came today, I expected it to have the green two wire connector, but no it was the one wire black connector part, which I then found out is the FC thermoswitch after calling Ray and asking him. So today I had to order the thermosensor (green connector) to replace mine that is in two peices.

This was the first thread I seen after searching to find out what the green connector sensor was for, and I didn't bother to check the FSM, I assumed you were correct and nobody said you were not, so I wasn't happy I have to wait another couple of days for the part I needed.

It is actually good that I got the FC thermoswitch, I did want it, I just thought I would be replacing the broken switch with a better FC switch and so it wasn't a bid deal that it was broke, but now I had to get both. Good thing the thermosensor (green connector) was only like $25 compared to about $50 for the FC thermoswitch that is a direct replacement so the fans will turn on sooner.

This post got long, but I wanted to clerify those parts so nobody else orders the wrong part.

 

Yes put the FC thermo switch in. I did when I replaced my housing and it works great!

 

Sorry for the miss information. One of two things happen very quickly on here. Either they spot it and point it out to everyone imeadiately, or in my case let me leave foot in mouth and get a good taste, so as to avoid doing it again. I did say the FSM should clarify it, so it only tastes like a dirty sock. LOL Hope it's back together. Jack

 

so you could use some silicone type of sealent or the gasket?

 

you can use either, or as some do and use both.

 

Hey sorry to bring an old thread back from the dead, but I am having the same problem trying to remove my water pump housing. I know I need to remove the studs from the front cover, but I am unfamiliar with the double nut method, what does that mean exactly?

 

Put 2 nuts on the stud and tighten them against each other. Then you can remove the stud by wrenching on the deeper nut.

 

oh wow thats not too hard, thanks

 

What's the torque spec for the water pump bolts? I cant find them anywhere in the FSM

 

Years later did he find the torque specs? Does anyone know the spces for the housing to the block??? Like 8ft lbs maybe?

 

I think I'd go with 14-19 ft/lbs. from page C-78 of the FSM.