Water temp sender in thermostat housing - BAD IDEA
#1
RX-7 Bad Ass
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iTrader: (55)
Water temp sender in thermostat housing - BAD IDEA
I finally got my water temp gauge installed last weekend. After doing some reading on the forum as to the best place to install the sender, I decided to drill/tap the thermostat housing in the spot where the auto tranny cars have their second temp unit.
Guys, this location SUCKS. The only advantage I can see is it's easy to get to and drill/tap without major parts removal. Why does it suck? You get little to no reading until the thermostat opens. At first, I thought something was wrong with my gauge (Greddy 52mm gauge, BTW) as it sat at full-cold as the stock temp gauge came up to temp. As the thermostat opened, bingo - needle came up to 80 deg. C within 3 seconds.
If you have a thermostat failing or stuck closed, the gauge will NOT give you feedback. I also don't like having the gauge serve no purpose as the car is warming up - that's just silly.
Installed a water temp gauge for a customer today, and made a brass T to install in the throttle body coolant line. Full range of readings, easy to install, and works great.
So, I go to install the sender in the TB line in my car. That all works well, but I can't get a 1/8" NPT plug into the hole I made in the T-stat housing! Due to the design of the T-stat housing, I couldn't get a "deep" tap with the tap wrench. Since pipe thread is tapered, the tap gets bigger as it goes along. The plug is on the large side of the scale, so it won't thread into the hole. After trying 2 different plugs, dropping one of the plugs and having to find it (tried the magnet at first, but brass isn't ferrous!), I ended up putting the plug in the brass T in the TB coolant line and put the sender back in the T-stat hole.
So, I now need to replace my hacked T-stat housing.
Moral of the story? As far as I can see, there is NO GOOD REASON to use the thermostat housing for a sender location. Use the TB coolant line - takes less time to install, no drilling or tapping, etc.
If any of you guys have other observations, please share. Just wanted to vent my frustration .
Dale
Guys, this location SUCKS. The only advantage I can see is it's easy to get to and drill/tap without major parts removal. Why does it suck? You get little to no reading until the thermostat opens. At first, I thought something was wrong with my gauge (Greddy 52mm gauge, BTW) as it sat at full-cold as the stock temp gauge came up to temp. As the thermostat opened, bingo - needle came up to 80 deg. C within 3 seconds.
If you have a thermostat failing or stuck closed, the gauge will NOT give you feedback. I also don't like having the gauge serve no purpose as the car is warming up - that's just silly.
Installed a water temp gauge for a customer today, and made a brass T to install in the throttle body coolant line. Full range of readings, easy to install, and works great.
So, I go to install the sender in the TB line in my car. That all works well, but I can't get a 1/8" NPT plug into the hole I made in the T-stat housing! Due to the design of the T-stat housing, I couldn't get a "deep" tap with the tap wrench. Since pipe thread is tapered, the tap gets bigger as it goes along. The plug is on the large side of the scale, so it won't thread into the hole. After trying 2 different plugs, dropping one of the plugs and having to find it (tried the magnet at first, but brass isn't ferrous!), I ended up putting the plug in the brass T in the TB coolant line and put the sender back in the T-stat hole.
So, I now need to replace my hacked T-stat housing.
Moral of the story? As far as I can see, there is NO GOOD REASON to use the thermostat housing for a sender location. Use the TB coolant line - takes less time to install, no drilling or tapping, etc.
If any of you guys have other observations, please share. Just wanted to vent my frustration .
Dale
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tomatoto (09-09-18)
#3
Rotary Freak
iTrader: (1)
I run Evans NPG with the surrounding portion of the thermostat drilled so I always have coolant flowing through the housing.
I used to run the sensor with a T at the throttle body and the only differenc that I'm seeing now is that the coolant temp at the thermostat housing is higher.
I used to run the sensor with a T at the throttle body and the only differenc that I'm seeing now is that the coolant temp at the thermostat housing is higher.
#4
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Originally Posted by pomanferrari
I used to run the sensor with a T at the throttle body and the only differenc that I'm seeing now is that the coolant temp at the thermostat housing is higher.
#6
SINFUL7
iTrader: (37)
IMO that is actually good, at least you will know if your tstat is not openning up since the water wont be flowing, it's better that way...what's the big deal in watching the water temp go up while warming up the car.....I may be wrong in how I think but if you think about it your tstat will stay open in most of your driving time so it will preety much show you the temp while driving the car, if you have been driving the car and temps start going down but your needle in the car is going up then you know that your tstat is not working.
#7
Im a tall midget.
iTrader: (28)
I think Dale is more concerned with the thermostat being stuck closed BEFORE the car warms up. With the sensor in the throttle body line, you can see the temperature rising from the very begining. If the thermostat doesnt open, you will know right away. Otherwise you're stuck with the stock gauge until the thermostat opens and shows a reading on the gauge.
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#8
Moderator
iTrader: (7)
I think you're right in many ways Dale, but it's not that big of a deal to me. Mine is in the t-stat housing, and within 2min the thermostat will open and the temps rise up. It isn't a big deal to me that I'm not getting temps for that time since I'm not pushing the car. If it goes more than 5" without rising, I will know something is wrong. Whether the engine can overheat with a stuck thermostat in 5min, I don't know. Maybe I will move that to the TB hose - it would be a cleaner installation, that's for sure.
Dave
Dave
#9
You can also get rid of the sensor for the stock gauge near the oil pressure sensor and use that spot for your aftermarket gauge sensor. The stock water temp sensor in that location is used only for the gauge, so the only side effect is that the stock gauge stops working.
-Max
-Max
#10
max the same goes for the oil sender. dale post a pic of where you put your sender. i have the same unit mounted to the blank hole on the right side of the housing, no air pump. mine reads fine.
#11
Rotary Freak
iTrader: (19)
Dale, did you install it according to this thread? https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-gen-archives-73/water-temperature-sensor-how-tap-install-247152/ or elsewhere?
I am debating with that install OR placing it in the water pump housing itself (far right). Here is a pic of where I am speaking of.
I am debating with that install OR placing it in the water pump housing itself (far right). Here is a pic of where I am speaking of.
#12
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
I did the same thing as Dale and tapped the thermo housing. I have a Defi D gauge and I thought I would have the same problem with temp. readings. I come to find out that the sensor reads temp while it is warming up. I don't know if it is the jiggle pin hole allowing some reading or the ambient temp of the housing it self, but it starts moving at 140 and slowly moves until the thermostat opens. it is nice and it follows right along with the stocker. I am not sure about other senders but mine works perfect. what about tapping the water pump housing itself, like behind where the thermoswitch is? that way it is before the thermostat. just a thought.
#13
Originally Posted by mad_7tist
max the same goes for the oil sender.
-Max
#14
Mr. Links
iTrader: (1)
There are pros and cons to about every location. However, I've heard that the TB line can show a difference of 10-15 degrees.
IMO, I would only mount and aftermarket sensor in the thermostat housing or replace the stock sensor with it.
Actually, if the gauge never starts reading because of a failed/stuck thermostat, at least you'll know about it.
IMO, I would only mount and aftermarket sensor in the thermostat housing or replace the stock sensor with it.
Actually, if the gauge never starts reading because of a failed/stuck thermostat, at least you'll know about it.