I do the same thing. In principle it is doing the same thing as an electronic pump (I rather have the electronic pump) by circulating cooler coolant back into the engine. I figure that if I can trade the heat soaked coolant for some cooler stuff then I might be saving my motor a little longer.
I will admit that I never concerned myself so much with coolant temps until I installed my coolant gauge. Maybe it's better not to know.

 

Well, for what it's worth I think everyone is way too concerned (fixated?) about water temps. They fluctuate wildly depending on ambient temp, whether the fans are running, whether you are sitting at a light or cruising, blah, blah, blah.

My only concern is what is the temp at the base of the spark plug? This is the hottest part of the engine (any engine) on a continual basis, except of course for the exhaust ports. The problem with measuring EGT is that it is AFTER the fact, and only useful for extremely fine tuning.

I installed temp probes on the base of the leading plugs on both rotors.
Once the engine is warmed up I see 185F to 200F, ALL THE TIME. This does not fluctuate whether I am driving in 25F or 140F ambient temperature. It NEVER goes up when I shut her down. I can live with 15F of fluctuation forever, and most importantly - so can your oil.

I think the moral of the story is to have a good OEM thermostat, a free flowing radiator (whatever the cost from $175.00 to $1,650.00) with fins that are straight and not clogged on the exterior with fuzz, good hoses, fresh coolant and two properly working fans:

You can sit back and r e l a x...

 

Hot spotting is the killer. The warmer the coolant gets the greater probability that hot spots will develop. This causes the housings to housings and exposes the o-rings to the combustion chamber. The rest is history. Coolant temps of 200 or 230 are nothing compared to 1700!