Guys what would cause this at startup. I'm getting no white smoke, no coolant loss, or coolant buzzer, no bouncing vacuum. Im also getting the water rushing sound which I never got until I changed the coolant. Everything I'm describing is in the video located
ftp://ftp.zeroglabs.com/upload/
Username: rx7
password: rx7
Name of the file is rx7startup_0001.wmv The file might get mover to another folder so look for the name. Also, thank to however made this FTP site, great RX7 videos.

The temp outside was 70F humidity was 78% also it had just rained the night before.

 

Guys what would cause this at startup.

-Exactly what are you referring to? The RPM drop that is ~9 seconds into the video, or the water rushing sound? I don't know about the RPM drop, but I'd guess that the water rushing has to do with air in the cooling system. Have you tried burping the system? I use this tool:

Coolant Burping Tool/ Radiator Cap Funnel
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/radiator-cap-funnel-eliminate-air-bubbles-342309/

-s-

 

Well, it turned on fine then it started like it wanted to die. I've been getting this after I did the coolant change. I also thought it was air as well, but why do so many people comment that this sound means the coolant seals are shot.

 

To tell you the truth, I haven't experienced blown coolant seals, so I don't know about that part. Good luck though.

-s-

 

The rushing coolant sound you hear (usually in the heater core) just means you have air in the system. Allot of air in the system is a bad thing and with a sound cooling system doesn't happen. That's why people generally say it's a bad seal when the system starts boiling over and it didn't use to. Caps are easy to change and done first. Since you actualy changed your coolant this is where the air came from and all you need to do is get it all out.

 

Just start the car when it's cold and leave the cap off for a bit... Should get alot of air out..
Keep repeating if there still is air left, or get one of those burping tools scotty305 was talking about.

 

I've had good luck getting air out by using the throttle body coolant line. Undo it, fill it with water, then reattach. A lot of air gets trapped up in there. With the line reattached, squeeze the line with the radiator cap on top of the coolant neck off - that will pump the system a bit and bring some air to the surface.

The struggling on cold startup to me sounds more like you need to add some fuel into the PowerFC coolant correction map. My car ran a bit rough when cold with the PowerFC - over the course of a few mornings, I added a bit more fuel into that map, made the car run and idle great when cold.

The part in the video where (I guess) you have the camera in the passenger floor board - that's a REAL strong water rush sound, sounds more like a kid playing in the tub .

Dale

Dale

 

DaleClark, you know what I just removed some fuel from the correction map because of my parents complaining about the gas smell. I'll add some tomorrow. Can you guys give some insight as to how much. Also, I turned on my car that morning then I turned it later in the day about 6pm and it started just fine. But if I leave the car for about 3-4days MY GOD is starts horribly as if the MAP sensor was disconnected. What could cause that. Dale I also did the TB line didnt help. And the noise is pretty loud. I tell my dad its like Im sitting on the tiolet and flushing it constantly. LOL Is there any way it could be the coolant seals with just this symptom of cold and hot start stumbling problems for the first couple of seconds upon startup.

SAiamME: if I take the cap off the coolant starts overflowing even when cold. Guess I'll have to buy that funnel.

 

Unfortunately he has supposedly done that already. A bunch of us suggested that in a previous thread of his, along with all sorts of other additional burping methods (lifting the front/parking on an incline when he opens the filler neck cap, squeezing the big radiator lines, etc.).

 

Did you have the heat on when you did this coolant change ? ? ? ? It's always a good to have your heating system open and in the mix when trying to get all the air out. Just a thought as once when I did the coolant flush i over looked this and it added air to the system (it had been partially on and cool when I was doing it)

 

Kento is right. I've done what everyone has said and it still has air. Yup, had the heat on. For those who have used the radiator funnel how well does it work. I saw that someone had seen on American Hot Rod where they used a vacuum pump to pull the air out. How exactly does that work.

 

That Lisle coolant funnel works really well. The first time I used it was during a flush & fill at a friend's shop. I left the throttle body line open when refilling, poured slowly, and burped the system using the radiator hoses. Even after that, the Lisle funnel removed at least 2-3 cups of air from the system over the course of 5-10 minutes.


Be warned, however: if you're running pure water (for instance, in the middle of a coolant flush), the system has no pressure when using this funnel, and it will boil over if you let the car get hot enough. The fans won't turn on or anything, you'll just boil the water after about 7 or 8 minutes of idling with the fans off. I've got videotape of this occasion, I'll upload it to that ftp if I can compress it well.


-s-

 

OK, it's on the ftp: coolant_funnel_oops.wmv. It's 9 MB. I usually put the funnel on the filler neck cap, I don't know why I tried putting it on the AST this time. With the cap on the filler neck, air bubbles are released earlier. (I don't think the AST has coolant flow when the thermostat is closed)

-s-

 

Scotty305, looks like that funnel works extremely well. Im going to purchase one today. Thanks for the video as well. When I use the funnel should I install it on the filler or AST cap. Also, I thought you were supposed to fill the funnel with straight coolant and not water to help prevent the overflow and boil over.

 

Hmm, I think I'm gonna have to get myself one of those funnels. Looks like a very effective yet inexpensive tool (somewhat of a rarity these days). I'm due for a coolant flush soon.

 

When I took this videotape, I was in the process of flushing my system with water to get all the old coolant out. I had drained all the old fluid, and refilled the system with water (and a little bit of vinegar, to break up any scaling or corrosion that might be in the radiator). Then I ran the car and took the videotape that I uploaded. After that, I drained the system again, and refilled with regular mix of coolant.



I think the AST is the wrong place to put the funnel, because when I opened the cap at the fill neck, the level was 3-4" too low. The funnel should go to the fill neck opening, since that is the highest point of the system. When I refilled the system, I put the funnel at the fill neck, and the water level barely dropped after a day's worth of driving.


Kento, I've seen these funnels at Pep Boys, but I don't know if they keep them in stock all of the time.

-s-

 

I had rushing water come form the passenger side firewall and about 30 miles later my coolant seal blew....

 

Charlies7, when did you get the rushing water sound. Was it immediately after a coolant flush. What did you do 30 miles before they blew.