Wastegate and precontrol actuator arm adjustment
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Not directly. Dave Disney once using a pencil-camera to spy on the actuators during operation, but the camera eventually died in the heat. So I've relied on indirect tests.
To me, inspecting this system is this:
1) Remove the heat shields, remove the e-clips, unhook the actuator arm from the door arm. Hold the door arm closed, and see that the pin gets within a half-pin width of lining up with the hole in the actuator arm. This 1-2mm is the proper pretension for the actuator (applies to both wg and pc).
2) Remove the vacuum lines, cap one of them. Apply pressure using a Mityvac and confirm the actuator opens/closes per the FSM specs. See that it doesn't leak air slowly.
3) Tee into the line coming from the wg or pc solenoid, and run a line into the cabin to your boost gauge or a separate pressure gauge. Under WOT You should see one pressure below 4500, and another at/above 4500. The needle may jitter, but it should show steady pressure. Offhand I can't recall the actual pressure levels.
4) Remove the wg/pc solenoids from the car. Check the coil resistance (27.5Ohms(?)), and use a Mityvac to verify that pressure applied to one nipple does not leak out. Using a 12v fused source (not the car battery!) apply voltage to the solenoid and see that it clicks open and passes air freely.
Dave
To me, inspecting this system is this:
1) Remove the heat shields, remove the e-clips, unhook the actuator arm from the door arm. Hold the door arm closed, and see that the pin gets within a half-pin width of lining up with the hole in the actuator arm. This 1-2mm is the proper pretension for the actuator (applies to both wg and pc).
2) Remove the vacuum lines, cap one of them. Apply pressure using a Mityvac and confirm the actuator opens/closes per the FSM specs. See that it doesn't leak air slowly.
3) Tee into the line coming from the wg or pc solenoid, and run a line into the cabin to your boost gauge or a separate pressure gauge. Under WOT You should see one pressure below 4500, and another at/above 4500. The needle may jitter, but it should show steady pressure. Offhand I can't recall the actual pressure levels.
4) Remove the wg/pc solenoids from the car. Check the coil resistance (27.5Ohms(?)), and use a Mityvac to verify that pressure applied to one nipple does not leak out. Using a 12v fused source (not the car battery!) apply voltage to the solenoid and see that it clicks open and passes air freely.
Dave
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