Fd3BOOST

iTrader: (7)

I see the flame wars around here are still here.

Umm Personally... the hose, either viton or silicone.
Even the stuff from www.hosetechniques.com will out live your engine so to argue which is better seems kinda pointless to me.

Oh yes and if you happen to break a solinoid nipple off by tugging on the hose instead of slicing it and twisting it off like Mr. Stock warns us of.

It will be $75 out of your pocket..
I broke one once and I paid dealer prices, but you can get them cheap in the forsale section from a guy who has done non sequential and no longer needs them.

RonKMiller

Yeah, I understand about trying to find the best stuff.
The Hose Techniques is ADEQUATE, but that's about it.

I've gotten into a major pissing match before with the owner about him passing off his stuff as "quality" hose.
It sucks. You get what you pay for in everything these days and they are just trying to maximize their profit margin with cheap crap and marketing hype. I DARE them to subject it to mil-spec testing. It would fail in a hearbeat.

Many times the dye used in hoses, fabrics, etc. has a huge part in durabilty, resistance to UV, chemicals etc.
I would not be surprised if yellow hose outlasted red hose over time due to the interaction of the dye with different chemicals, heat, etc. - OR - maybe the red would outlast the yellow.

I can buy DuroBlu by the reel - that's 1,000 feet - or enough for 30 RX7's, and the good thing is you only need one size since it is so elastic. But I am not in the car biz and have no intentions of getting into it.

One of the only places I have seen it for sale by the foot is at www.rxforyour7.com, and I seem to remember the price was very reasonable. I sure would not go back and redo the Hose Techinques stuff since it will work for street applications.

I just would never buy it again.

Oh yeah, it also split REAL easy, even using a fresh blade and $30.00 Snap-On hose cutting tool.

That's my HUMBLE opinion.

Cheers,

Ron

RonKMiller

Interesting, my link won't work.......I wonder why?

Guess it's good business to keep all the newbs in the dark these days.

Fd3BOOST

iTrader: (7)

Because your a donkey that needs to lay off the crack.

The **** you bought from them must have been a **** batch because I have bought their hose more than once as well as the stuff form Baker precision and PFS (who i think buy it from Baker anyway but I'm not sure).
I didn't see much difference to be honest with you.

But if hose is your thing then far be it from me to tell you stop this rewarding debate on vacum hose.

It's all you Ron


Is this the link you wanted Ronny boy?
Rons deflating ego

RZRX7TT

I CAN SEE WE HAVE GONE OFF TOPIC ON MY THREAD HAAAAAA

DRAG0NEER

Nothing was wrong with my car before the hose job but after the hose job I noticed that I'm getting better airflow through my control system since my BOV is now much louder and makes sounds even when I'm not boosting. Also before the hose job I knew almost nothing about my 7 and now I know how to remove the UIM, solenoid rack, solenoids, coils, airpump, alternator, all the belts, actuators, injectors, FPD, FDR, wires, ... and a whole lot more stuff. As you can see I've gained a lot of knowledge just from doing the hose job alone. Can you imagine all the $$$ that I save from knowing how to replace the above items? So there you have it do the hose job and maximize the fun factor from taking pride of working on the car yourself. Peace.

SPOautos

If you in there you might as well do the seq simplification and get rid of the freakn rats net and about 80% of the hose.

Oh yea, it only gets rid off that much if you dont have all the emmissions crap.

As for which hose.....they both work and will both outlast your engine. Just get one that wont kink....that is going to depend more on the wall thickness than what type of material.

I dont really see why people want to argue about which freakn hose to use. There are a ton of people that have used both with no probs. Personally I replaced mine with regular freak'n vac line from Auto Zone...Why you ask. Well its simple, I have full exhaust and my underhood temps are not that bad which means I'm not killing the vac lines like a stock 3rd gen does.

STEPHEN

DamonB

I have compared Baker Precision hose and that from Hose Techniques side by side and the Baker stuff was undoubtedly thicker. (Posted by two year Baker Precision user who didn't tie wrap or glue and races over 20 times a year along with driving 20,000 miles a year and has never had a vac line blow off).

flunkysama

iTrader: (4)

ON TOPIC:
If your car is working fine, a host job is preventive upgrade. Like an aftermarket radiator or replacing/eliminating the AST (I hope that doesn't start more off-topic stuff) You might pull the pressure tank and check the elasticity of the hoses you have now. If they do not feel too stiff or brittle, you probably do not need a hose job.

It is alot of work. A newbie or incompetent person could really make a mess if a few hoses get switched. If you don't feel confindent about doing it yourself, then don't do it.

OFF TOPIC:
1) Silicon wil break down over time when exposed to oil or fuel. I, personally, would not use silicon for crankcase ventilation or gas tank ventiliation.
2) If you buy 1/8 inch thick wall viton, it will not kink. I have done 1/2 inch radius bends and sharper without problems.

Mr. Stock

I did the hose replacement with silicone about 6 years ago with silicone hoses from Elite Motorsports(I don't think they exist anymore).

Before the replacement, I had no trouble with the sequential operation. After the replacement, I still had no problems.

The stock OEM rubber hoses were fine when I took them off. The advantage of these hoses are that they are preformed and there is no concern of kinking the hose off as you would with a silicone hoses/Viton hoses.

So my take on this is that unless you are having trouble with the sequential operation of the turbos, the hose replacement is not necessary.

Downsides of hose replacement:
Sore back if you are a do-it-yourselfer
Can create NEW problems in the sequential system if done wrong, kink off a hose, etc
Can be costly if solenoids break.

Just my 2 cents. You decide for yourself whether it's worth it to have spend $500/do it yourself versus doing it when needed.

adam c

iTrader: (2)

Don't do the hose job if everything is working right. Your mechanic is giving you good advice.

Regarding silicon hoses. Why would you use them if they will break down when exposed to oil? It seems to me that there is a very good chance of oil exposure under the hood of a car. We are not living in a perfect world where everything stays where it is supposed to.

RedRex7

I just got done replacing all my vacum tubes and the car is running great, was not difficult just very frustrating, I broke a solinoed and had to wait a week on mazda sending me a new one but after that it was smooth sailing, I used Hose Tech and had no problems

TomsRX7

Hey buddy, howz it going? As for the silicone hose, there are tons of people who use it, including myself, because it stands up to the heat of the FD a lot better. What these other guys are referring to, when they say oil breaks it down, would only be in a situation where it sees direct, daily contact, like if you were to try and run oil through it or somewhere where it gets submerged in oil. Under the upper intake manifold, which is where the solenoids, electrical connectors, and these hoses are at that we are discussing, it is very dry and oil/moisture free. If you have a lot of oil up there, then you've got some problems that need to be taken care of. So the silicone hose should not be in danger of being broken down by oil in that area.

One of the problems of the factory rubber hose is that it gets VERY hard as it ages. So when it comes time to do a rebuild and you try to pull a hose off, it breaks the nipples off of the solenoids. To buy a new solenoid can cost $75-$100 each and there around 12 of them. So....if (and when) you get your engine rebuilt, I would recommend you have it re-done with good silicone hose at that time. It's nicer looking (colors) and stays flexible for years.