Why is everybody stuck on dyno numbers? Go to the track and see if your mods made your car faster. That is the real test. A dyno is just a tool to get you closer to make your car perform better. The real test is at the track! Plus dyno to dyno things differ. So even comparing one dyno number to another is kinda a waste of time. When I compare dyno numbers after a mod, I go back to the same dyno w as similar conditions and settings as poss.

But for what it's worth my car on 11psi w 99 specs and downpipe, midpipe and Borla muffler made 295 on a Mustang dyno. Car is a road race car but I did 1/4 mi it and it ran 12.80 @ 109 on 225 bridgestone SO2's

Hope that helps.

 

so that still begs the question, why are you dyno tuning at all if you suspect you have fuel issues?

 

What brand are your secondarie injectors?

And the fact that the boost drops from 11 to 6 psi is akward.

Yo need a real rotary tuner not these gay dyno shopps that tune pistons all day.

 

265 on a Mustang is about a right for your mods. Mustangs are usually 10-15% lower than a dynojet.
No way your car is going to make much more on stock motor, stock turbos at 11psi.

 

I'll be driving to kdr in the winter when I replace the turbos , fpr, fuel pump and vaccuum lines. I don't care about my numbers it just led me to believe something is wrong with my car when people are claiming numbers like I've seen, even on a mustang dyno.

 

how much more whp over my 11 psi am I looking at if I have sufficiant fuel to run 13-14 psi?

 

You'll roughly see about 12 rwhp for each pound of boost increase. Of course this tends to be the norm on a dynojet.

Tim

 

with stock primaries and 1300cc secondaries and a steve kan tune My injector duty hits 80-85 percent@14psi. with the stock fuel injectors I was hitting 92% duty cycles @11-12psi on the stock fuel system.

 

Did you check your solenoids and check valves?

 

Hello,
I work for a BMW tuner that uses the mustang dyno to tune the cars for drivability and reliability. The mustang is a load bearing dyno so your numbers will be lower than you buddy who uses the common dyno-jet dyno which is an inertia base unit. They both serve their perposes. You did the right thing to have your car tune on a Mustang, but now you want the bragging rights. I suggest that you do not mess with the tune you did on the mustang. You simply need to do 3 pulls on a dynjet so that your heart will be a ease.

 

Just had my FD tuned on a Mustang with the mods in my sig and got 294 rwhp and 259 max torque @ 12psi

 

As far as you're overly rich idle mixture... and the description of a clammed v8 it sounds like your map sensor isn't connected or is not working properly.


Go to the commander sensor check screen (under etc) and look at the PIM voltage. If it's somewhere close to or over 2 volts while idling then its reading way too high, either due to a problem with it or not being connected. You should actually check the voltages both with the car off key on and car idling, the voltage should drop with it started.

While I'm not sure how anyone that knows anything about working on cars could miss it, this is what it sounds like to me. And if it does turn out to be this, then you should never return your car to that place for anything, and be very pissed about any money you spent there.

The other thing you should check is under settings "PIM volt" see what option its set on. With the stock map sensor it should be set to 1.NORMAL. If it's set to anything else for the stock map sensor it will be wrong. If you don't have the stock map sensor then it will need whatever scale and offset entered in.

You should post your map anyways, if there is any weird problems it should become apparent by how the fuel map has been tuned.

As far as your power numbers, they are very normal. I made 263 at 11 psi with stock turbos,stock intercooler, an intake, full 2 1/2" exhaust, stock ports, greddy pulleys, and greddy emanage + profec e-01. Not sure the dyno because it was 6 years ago.