ok so in my quest to get a perfect boost pattern, i was hitting 15psi for some reason and because i need to install my PFC, i decided to just replace all of the vac lines, well i was able to do about 90% others i couldnt reach, i ended up braking the nipple off of the DTC and i read that i could eleminate that by bloking off two nipples so that the sytem doesnt get any vacume, so i put everything back to geter and start it up and the idle starts to fluxuate between 2K rpms and 1k rpms just going up and down, well i let the car warm up and it was doing the same thing, so i went for a test drive to see if i even fixed the boost problem i had and my new boost pattern its 10-6-5, the only up side ist that i am not over boosting... anyways here is a pic of the vac diagram wit the hoses that i caped of circled in red, i wanted to know if i these are the corect ones to cap? and if any one maybe had some insight about my boost isue too before i take everything apart again...



any help is greatly apprechiated!

 

any one? please i need alittle help

 

i guess no oen knows the answer... i searched and all peole sai was plug up the 2 holes on the mani but the one in the back really inst attached to the mani so thats why i wanna make sure to see if i did it right...

 

The very first question that I have is...

Did you replace the two hoses labelled "Insert Boost Controller" and "Restrictor in this line" at the bottom of that diagram?

If you did replace them (or maybe a previous owner could have).... did you replace the pills?

If your pills are missing, it can lead to a 10 - 6 - 6 type boost pattern (or other odd patterns sometimes). As you probably know, these cars are challenging to work on, so it's not the only idea, but that is the very first thing I'd suspect.


Capping those two hoses / ports should have no effect on boost, so I am not worried that that is a problem. The only problem with doing that is that your car is now capable of hitting full power / full boost on a cold engine... Do NOT ever drive the car hard until it's fully warmed up and you have no worries.

 

well actualy i am assuming that when i had the turbos repalced (99 spec) that chuck cahanged those lines, but i did notice that last time some one told me to inspect those lines for the pill there were NO pills in there! so what can i do? is there a way to replicate the pills? cause i am 100% sure that they were not in those vac lines down there. and thanks for the advise i do know that i have to let my car warm up witch i do every time thanx again.

 

anyone else have some input about the pills and how i can maype replicate them? do i need them w/ the PFC since that can controll the boost? not sure just throwin it out there.

 

bump

 

OK this is is a bit of a tricky topic (I am drunk).

The 1993 cars had pills in the vac lines. I think that the newer cars had constricted ports on the turbo nipples themselves I think which took the place of the pills. this would probably cover your 99 spec (????)

Anyone know if 99 spec turbos require pills?

 

hmm... thats strange, like he said does anyone know about the pills? thanx for ur help

 

I'm 80% sure the later turbo's do NOT require pills.

However, putting some in may still cure your problem..but be careful with it. Are you SURE they are 99 spec turbos?

Do some reasearch, im sure it says about it on fd3s.net under the turbo's section.

 

im 100% sure that they are and chuck at rotary extreme installed them and i highl dobut that he jiped me, also does any one know if i set the DTC elimination up corectly because i have a horible idle i circled the two places that i caped off to prevent the double throtle from working yet my idle really stinks, so if someone could look at that pic and tell me if i did it correctly then id apprechiate it

 

bump

 

99 turbos (actually 96 up JDM turbos) do not have the pills on the hoses.The
fitting on the compressor housing of the primary turbo that holds the two hoses to the Pre-control and wastegate actuators have smaller holes.You wont see them just by looking at it (it look like the fitting on the early FDs) but if you have the turbos off and look into the fitting you will see what I mean.

 

oh ok thanx, and i dont have the stcok turbos on hand, they were replaced about a year ago... well i put my PFC in any ways and it seemed to somothen out the idle once it learnd it, (used dale clarks write up on how to install it) anyways my boost pattern is on the primary is 9psi then it slowly drops and i dont even fell a transition for the secondary and by that time it is at a bout 5psi and stays there till red line... wtf this system is so mesed up...

 

Missing pills produces 8psi. I don't think that's your problem. If you want to verify that, I think that if you look into the nipples on the compressor elbow that's where you'll see the small pin-sized holes. It was not done this way with all 94+ cars, so you pretty much have to check.

I think you should go through the Mazda KOKO test: http://www.fd3s.net/boost_test.html and report your findings. It could be as simple as not holding pressure, or it could be the turbo control actuator not working right. When you get into the Key On Key Off section, you should be able to do it by yourself, although it's a little tedious - key on, get out, look at the CCA, get under the car and look at the TCA, key off, check CCA, check TCA, repeat 7 times.

Dave

 

so when i do the koko do i need to start the car up? or do i just swich the key to the on position? thanx for your help and the link!!!!!!!!!


also i wanted to add that when i started my car up today to move it, when i started it it stayed at about 3200 rpms and held there til it warmed up for about a min and then it went down after a reved it a bit. could this have to do with the double throttle?

 

Nope, that's AWS. If you start in neutral it activates until you touch the throttle. If you start in gear with the clutch in the AWS doesn't kick in.

Read the KOKO test in detail: first you run the car, create a few psi of boost in neutral (make sure the car is warmed up), then shut off the engine. The pressure chamber and vacuum chamber should still have a full charge of pressure and vacuum in them since stopping the engine does not release their charge. Then you do the KOKO without cranking or starting the engine - this will open and close the solenoids, letting out the pressure and vacuum charge into the CCA and TCA. It should do it several times without issue, indicating the solenoids, actuators, and vacuum lines are working tightly and consistently.

Dave

 

oh ok great thanx for your help dave! im gonna try this as soon as i get home!

 

ok so i did the test and the actuators didnt move once, also when i pull the lines off of the pressure chamber it didnt make a hissing nosie. so what is the next step? i must have mesed something up in there...

also i started the car in gear whith the cluch in and it still constantly ran at 3000 rps until it got to about 160* F, my vacume at idle is about 12 on stock ports warmed up, and when i rev my car once warmed up in neutral it goes to about 3 psi instad of 4... i also took the nipple that i have the DTC pluged off and the bosst test says that the vack should drop to 0 and it didnt, it stayed constant... thanx for the help, any more advise?

 

Were you able to get any boost with the burst in neutral? As long as you got more than a psi or two it should hiss when the pressure tank is disconnected. While you're in there, make sure that check valve is pointing toward the pressure tank. The vacuum chamber check valve points toward the UIM.

Also, remember you need to start the engine and neutral boost again before trying the KOKO section.

Dave

 

ok i edeited it alittle bit should answer a few questions

 

im not exatly sure what you mean by this can you elaberate a bit more? thanx

 

Check valves. They only flow air in one direction. There is an arrow on the check valve indicating the direction of flow, and you have to assemble them facing the correct way. Look on the vacuum diagram and it will show which way they must point.

As for the 3000rpm thing, I don't know what is causing that.

Dave

 

ok thanks, ill defenetly check them out so do you think that, that is my problem

 

If you're not sure about the check valves you absolutely need to see that they are installed correctly.

Dave