Verbal

so how about some pics of this monstrosity?

twint78

i will get getting a throwaway camera shortly.ive been real busy with this.not much time for anything else.

i posted a pics request for what everyone wants to see.

please tell me.

i still have a rear differential mount and battery box to be made.

im just so happy that still that it finally fired up when i sprayed some ether in it.

i overnited my injectors today to get cleaned here in greensboro nc.ill be picking them up tomorrow.looks like it should be on the street tomorrow.

twint78

i give up still wont start.

power is fine electric is fine

pump is new

injectors freshly cleaned and flow tested and are fine

getting fuel into rails

injectors hooked up right

engine runs on ether so the engine is fine.

timing is right.

fuel lines are right

i do not have the charcoal canister/purge control line hooked up.

i think i need to check fuel filter might be clogged.

when i installed injectors popped a little and thats it. then nothing more after that.

LT1-7

well if you're getting fuel, how pressure? If you're getting pressure before the injectors, see if the injectors are actually spraying. That's what I would check. If they don't spray, it has some electrical problems

twint78

i just hooked up test light to bad puppys.

the positive side or computer wire is not sending signal.basically the light is not flashing.but the pink wire has power.

guess ill need a new ecu.

twint78

talked to a guy and he said my opti spark could be bad.

he said that being a 94 it is vented so could be bad.

he says the hi res tells pcm when to fire ignition.

and low res tells pcm when to fire fuel injectors

jimlab

It certainly could be bad, especially on an 80k mile engine, but the vented '94-97 Opti-spark distributors are an improvement over the non-vented '92-'93 version. The venting tube (which should be hooked up to the intake manifold) pulls moisture out of the Opti-spark, cutting down on condensation which could cause spark scatter.

The pink wire is injector power, the other wires are switched to ground by the ECU, firing the injector. If the injectors aren't receiving a ground signal, then you should check your sensors, including the Opti-spark.

And throw away that test light and buy yourself a multi-meter...

twint78

this is what i checked was the grounds.

but i also checked the power.

i dont think i need a multimeter for a simple injector pulse check.

it was 92-94 that was non vented.95-97 was vented.i have the last model yr.great.

hmm hey jim u think the low res on the opti spark picks up the signal for the tachometer too.cuz my takes does not read.the low res is what fires the injectors.

thanx.

paw140

Any updates on your beast?

twint78

i sent u some pics.i have everything done and finished.all fluids mounts and torque arm.

just trying to figure out why i am not getting signal to injectors or tach from the low resistor on the opti spark.i just put a new one in.it work when i first put engine in.then i had the battery overload from a posi touching ground by accident.so i believe i i fried the computer.

and jim if u see this i used an ohmeter and test light.
haha.it was supposed to be running this friday.

paw140

Here's some pics that twint78 sent me. I tried to post them this morning, but we all know what happened. Hopefully it doens't crash for 5 consecutive minutes so I can get them uploaded.

paw140

Another

paw140

Another

paw140

Last one

twint78

well hers is my final update b4 runtime.after doing everything in god's green earth to get it running,i took it to my mechanic and it ended up being a cracked dist cap.it was only firing 2 cylinders correctly this is why it was pop ping and belch.well tomorrow is street time.

jimlab

How in the hell did you manage to crack the cap of an Opti-spark? Didn't you say it was new?

Kiflin

Looks like you got some Rag time to catch up with Twint.

Congrats never the less.

twint78

no i just cleaned the dist cap.the cracks were hairline jim so u couldnt see them without using a spray that finds these cracks.

but anyways she runs and purrs like a huge *** kitten.

god it is beautiful.

all in her great glory.

what is this like number 4 on the v8 3g list?

yes i love it is awesome.too bad all naysayers cant relish in it with me.

now i gotta go in and play with my tachometer and speedometer.

tachometer doesnt pick up.

and speedometer will be wired straight to the vss.instead of all kinds of crazy wiring hassle. i got this advice from brian at rotorsportsracing. this is how he does it with auto the manual tranny swap.

jimlab

Unfortunately, the output of your 4L60E's VSS is 40 pulses per driven gear rotation and the output of the Mazda 5M VSS is 8...

The Dakota Digital SGI-5 you have needs to be connected between the speedometer output of your GM PCM (4,000 ppm @ 60 mph) and your speedometer input (8,200 ppm @ 60 mph) but it can't compensate totally for that big a discrepancy because its maximum resolution is multiplication or division of the signal by "2" (double or half).

Your PCM doesn't "know" that you have a 4.10:1 differential, either. You really need to be able to program the GM PCM for the change in tire size and differential gear ratio, unless you've already had someone do that for you, and then "fudge" those settings until you get the speedometer reading just right. I believe this is what Bill Hagen said that he did.

jpandes

Damn!! Is this english?!@$ Just kidding... I think it's great that all you guys are "pioneering" the RX7/V8 conversion. Now, will somebody just open a shop here in the SF bayarea that will do a turn-key conversion for fair price...I'll be your first customer!

Great Work Guys!

~John

twint78

hey jim i have the 700r4.but i get the point.what i was gonna do is wire it straight to the tach like brian said but also intercept it with the digi.but if u dont think this will work i will not disagree.

hey im not getting tachometer reading.i have the wires connected .it doesnt even read twice the engine speed.

the speedometer and odometer doesnt work either,but i think thats cuz i have the wires crossed from mating the stock 5 speed wiring to the 700r4's sensor.

why wouldnt the tach read though?hmm

i am also working out my alt recharging wire.the optima is completely dead.it is not recharging like told it would be. i was told to run the single red wire from the alt to a dash light and im good to go.this would be a negative.

jimlab

I was talking about the speed signal from the VSS, but you'll need to cut the tach signal in half too.

Which wire, and where did you tap into it? I have a breakdown of all the wires used in the swap, but haven't put it together into one document yet.

The tachometer wire is yellow with a blue stripe (Y/L) and gets picked up at the connector designated "X-07" in the wiring manual (see attached picture). It used to feed from the ECU, so you can pull it from one of the yellow plugs that formerly plugged into the ECU, or trace it to the plug under the dash.



Could be... If your transmission has an electronic sender, then it's probably a 4L60, not a 700R4. The 700R4 is computer indendent, with a mechanical speed sender. The 4L60 is the same thing, but basically a newer version, with an electronic speed sender, but still with no computer control. The 4L60E is the computer controlled "late model" 4-speed automatic that came in the F-body.

If you have a one-wire alternator, it will not auto-excite unless you rev it over ~2,500 rpm after starting the car... each time. You have to connect an ignition switched 12V+ line to the alternator to make it excite (and charge) all the time. And I suppose you need a schematic for that, too.

jimlab

Plug X-07... tachometer wire is marked in yellow.

yzf-r1

iTrader: (1)

wow, those pics are truly scary

a new definition of shade tree mechanic

cdk 4219

The alternator wire( red) reads the resistance in the filament of the dash charge light. The light must come on when the key is in the run position(engine off) As soon as the car is started the light should go off. Talking about a ground in this is bad news. Do not ground this wire, hook it up to a bulb (preferrably dash charge light) and make sure the other side if the bulb is grounded. If it isnt hooked up to the bulb it wont charge. See I told you the reason your car wouldnt run was a simple one, always check the simple things.