v8 3rd gen almost done
11-08-02, 06:26 PM
#27
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yes it can.
if u need help let me know.it is best to order grants v8 subframe and then modify it.
u can tell him to send it to u in pieces and he will.this way u dont have to recut crap.
u will need an adapter plate for transmission.
tell me what all u want to do and i can help as much as possible.i asked plenty of questions from the pioneers.so i have plenty of answers.
other than the basic v8 setup u will not need much more different parts.
i can tell u all the wiring. crap to look for.which wont be much since it is way shorter.
if u need help let me know.it is best to order grants v8 subframe and then modify it.
u can tell him to send it to u in pieces and he will.this way u dont have to recut crap.
u will need an adapter plate for transmission.
tell me what all u want to do and i can help as much as possible.i asked plenty of questions from the pioneers.so i have plenty of answers.
other than the basic v8 setup u will not need much more different parts.
i can tell u all the wiring. crap to look for.which wont be much since it is way shorter.
11-08-02, 07:55 PM
#28
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trying to decided on body work after i start saving up again.
hre 540's or hre 542's.chrome or gunmetal.
http://www.buxtonmotorsports.com/bmi_KINESIS.htm
i have a VR R1.
should i go with carbon fiber scoot hood or fiberglass painted to match?
i will be going with racing beat's front lip.where it is only a lip on both sides.none in the middle.
hre 540's or hre 542's.chrome or gunmetal.
http://www.buxtonmotorsports.com/bmi_KINESIS.htm
i have a VR R1.
should i go with carbon fiber scoot hood or fiberglass painted to match?
i will be going with racing beat's front lip.where it is only a lip on both sides.none in the middle.
11-08-02, 09:29 PM
#30
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please say everything u want to say.y would it be titanic?
please no band wagon riding comments.make a thread on how u dont like the idea.
i think u need to call cam at pettit.to talk about anything dealing with this subject.i dont feel like explaining this one a million times especially since there is a million threads on it.ok maybe cam doesnt run 275's in front.i think it is more like 255?
oops then again i could care what someone CAN SAY.
please no band wagon riding comments.make a thread on how u dont like the idea.
i think u need to call cam at pettit.to talk about anything dealing with this subject.i dont feel like explaining this one a million times especially since there is a million threads on it.ok maybe cam doesnt run 275's in front.i think it is more like 255?
oops then again i could care what someone CAN SAY.
11-09-02, 11:07 AM
#31
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Hey man, just wanted to let you know that I think what you're dong is pretty sweet. Personally, I love the rotary engine. I'm a senior as a mechanical engineering major, and weird mechanical devices like the rotary just completely intruigue me. I kind of enjoy teaching people about it that have no clue.
But, before I bought my FD, I was a huge muscle car man. I loved big block V8s from the 60s, and 70s, and I was considering purchasing a 71 Cuda. I just love TORQUE man!! You are serioiusly gonna have a ball with this thing when its done. I don't think I could have the ***** to do what you're doing, just because I think I'm too scared to start hacking away at the car, but I really admire you for taking on a project like this.
Quick question though, why did you go with the lt1, over the ls1? You said something about the ls1 being fragile, which is true to an extent, but in the stock configuration or even slightly modified, it should be more than strong enough (plus its a lot lighter).
Oh yeah, and personally I would go with the 540s. Those look sweet, and I really don't think the 542s would look good on an FD.
Not a big fan of carbon figer hoods either... Just my $0.02
Oh yeah, we want pics!!!!!
Rob
But, before I bought my FD, I was a huge muscle car man. I loved big block V8s from the 60s, and 70s, and I was considering purchasing a 71 Cuda. I just love TORQUE man!! You are serioiusly gonna have a ball with this thing when its done. I don't think I could have the ***** to do what you're doing, just because I think I'm too scared to start hacking away at the car, but I really admire you for taking on a project like this.
Quick question though, why did you go with the lt1, over the ls1? You said something about the ls1 being fragile, which is true to an extent, but in the stock configuration or even slightly modified, it should be more than strong enough (plus its a lot lighter).
Oh yeah, and personally I would go with the 540s. Those look sweet, and I really don't think the 542s would look good on an FD.
Not a big fan of carbon figer hoods either... Just my $0.02
Oh yeah, we want pics!!!!!
Rob
11-09-02, 01:20 PM
#32
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lt1 is cast iron block which to me cant ake more abuse than an aluminum block.
this is for future purposes.nitrous injection maybe blown.never know.the ls1 can take it fine too,but its extra security.
it is true the ls1 is superior in one way.the heads and bolt ons.this things can flow like a mad *****.and it takes well to bolt ons.
but here is the better options to me
iron block
i believe the ability to make beefier with work instead of boltons
reversed cooling
4 bolt mains instead the new 2 bolt mains
5 bolt head design instead of the 4 bolt ls1 heads.
cheaper parts
more parts available.
there is some other things
where is jim when ya need him.i will be getting pics of the finished product so hold on.i like carbon fiber if done right.i think it will look tacky on a red car.i like the idea of everything being all red.
umm i spoke with a camaro nut and he says with my mods i should be pushing 340hp to go.
this is for future purposes.nitrous injection maybe blown.never know.the ls1 can take it fine too,but its extra security.
it is true the ls1 is superior in one way.the heads and bolt ons.this things can flow like a mad *****.and it takes well to bolt ons.
but here is the better options to me
iron block
i believe the ability to make beefier with work instead of boltons
reversed cooling
4 bolt mains instead the new 2 bolt mains
5 bolt head design instead of the 4 bolt ls1 heads.
cheaper parts
more parts available.
there is some other things
where is jim when ya need him.i will be getting pics of the finished product so hold on.i like carbon fiber if done right.i think it will look tacky on a red car.i like the idea of everything being all red.
umm i spoke with a camaro nut and he says with my mods i should be pushing 340hp to go.
11-09-02, 01:50 PM
#33
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Originally posted by twint78
umm i spoke with a camaro nut and he says with my mods i should be pushing 340hp to go.
umm i spoke with a camaro nut and he says with my mods i should be pushing 340hp to go.
11-09-02, 02:37 PM
#35
Super Snuggles
Originally posted by twint78
lt1 is cast iron block which to me cant ake more abuse than an aluminum block.
lt1 is cast iron block which to me cant ake more abuse than an aluminum block.
Stock vs. stock, it's no question that the LS1 is a superior engine, but modified vs. modified, I'll take an LT1 in this case. The sheer number, cost and availability of aftermarket parts makes it a great platform to build on. It's also considerably more compact than an LS1, which made it a perfect candidate for the RX-7.
reversed cooling
Allows you to run an extra point or so of compression.
4 bolt mains instead the new 2 bolt mains
Actually, most LT1 blocks have 2-bolt mains. Upgrade to nodular iron or steel main caps and register them with dowel pins to prevent walking, and 2-bolt mains will hold an easy 800 horsepower, or upgrade to splayed 4-bolt billet caps for even greater strength. The Corvette and marine LT1 blocks came with 4-bolt mains. The LS1 has what are essentially 6-bolt main caps, with 2 extra horizontal bolts per cap which tie into the skirt of the block.
5 bolt head design instead of the 4 bolt ls1 heads.
Yep.
cheaper parts.
Yep.
more parts available.
Yep.
there is some other things
Perhaps most importantly, the LT1 doesn't require any major heroics to mount in an RX-7. So far, I have yet to see someone complete an LS1 3rd gen. conversion. Once that's been overcome, though, then the LS1 would be a more valid option.
11-09-02, 09:55 PM
#37
Super Snuggles
Originally posted by twint78
hey i dont know if u read my post but i have a good 1 to 1 1/2 inches between the tbody and hood.
hey i dont know if u read my post but i have a good 1 to 1 1/2 inches between the tbody and hood.
11-10-02, 05:11 PM
#41
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ok latest update.
modified stock radiator so i can drive to a shop to get the custom 3 inch race radiator mounted.
modified fans had to cut the bottom center section out lowering the lt1 a little bit more.
making a mini battery mount on drivers side.plenty of room over there.
starter is wired up to battery and ignition.
ground to engine.ground to chassis.engine to chassis ground.is that enuff.wiring harness grounded
steering column made reversed so there is no bolt to bang into my headers.
recieved harness wired everything in.
waiting on lazy *** mechanic to weld my mounts in for tranny and rear differential.i wish i had a welder and those skills it would be goddamn done already.
fixed throttle cable.
having to make mount for 700r4 T.V. cable.
making custom braided lines for transmission cooler lines
tune up supplies
steel braided high psi fuel lines going in.
steel braided heater hose installed.
custom coolant can being made
received new speedometer for 700r4.needing to buy red gear.
driveshaft exhuast will be made.
im about this close to being done to start takin pics.but it seems like another 20 yrs cuz of this damn welder.
waiting waiting waiting...............................
modified stock radiator so i can drive to a shop to get the custom 3 inch race radiator mounted.
modified fans had to cut the bottom center section out lowering the lt1 a little bit more.
making a mini battery mount on drivers side.plenty of room over there.
starter is wired up to battery and ignition.
ground to engine.ground to chassis.engine to chassis ground.is that enuff.wiring harness grounded
steering column made reversed so there is no bolt to bang into my headers.
recieved harness wired everything in.
waiting on lazy *** mechanic to weld my mounts in for tranny and rear differential.i wish i had a welder and those skills it would be goddamn done already.
fixed throttle cable.
having to make mount for 700r4 T.V. cable.
making custom braided lines for transmission cooler lines
tune up supplies
steel braided high psi fuel lines going in.
steel braided heater hose installed.
custom coolant can being made
received new speedometer for 700r4.needing to buy red gear.
driveshaft exhuast will be made.
im about this close to being done to start takin pics.but it seems like another 20 yrs cuz of this damn welder.
waiting waiting waiting...............................
11-21-02, 05:43 PM
#42
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alright she is about to be cranked over.here is my check list:
fluids check
coolant filler box check
coolant lines check
diigi dakota wired in check
driveshaft check
trans mount check
oil filter check
coolant check
alternator mount and belt check
shifter rod check
these are the things im having trouble with.i put the battery in b4 i wired the digital dakota in.hooked up the cables and all lights came on.so everything was normal.i now put the battery in again with the digital dakota wired in.must be a bad ground on it.i connected the battery cables to the post and sparks everywhere.negative cable even melted a little to the post.now only outside lights come on.inside lights are fried.will check fuse in the morn.i know its gone.but how in the hell did this happen just from the digital dakota.or is it?
i have a ground to the engine the chassis and engine to chassis.
hmmm v8 7's help.please.
fluids check
coolant filler box check
coolant lines check
diigi dakota wired in check
driveshaft check
trans mount check
oil filter check
coolant check
alternator mount and belt check
shifter rod check
these are the things im having trouble with.i put the battery in b4 i wired the digital dakota in.hooked up the cables and all lights came on.so everything was normal.i now put the battery in again with the digital dakota wired in.must be a bad ground on it.i connected the battery cables to the post and sparks everywhere.negative cable even melted a little to the post.now only outside lights come on.inside lights are fried.will check fuse in the morn.i know its gone.but how in the hell did this happen just from the digital dakota.or is it?
i have a ground to the engine the chassis and engine to chassis.
hmmm v8 7's help.please.
11-22-02, 12:36 PM
#47
Super Snuggles
Originally posted by twint78
my damn 120a main fuse block is blowing
my damn 120a main fuse block is blowing
I'd start at your battery and if you haven't already, track all connections to their sources and see what's happened. It sounds like you've got a positive cable hooked up incorrectly, pinched, or cut and it's shorting to ground when you try to hook the battery up.
Bit of advice... don't hook the battery up again until you figure out what's caused the problem. It should be fairly obvious. The electrical sub-systems, especially parts like the combination (wiper, turn signal) switch are very expensive to replace, even with used parts. Buy a multimeter and test circuit continuity, don't just keep hooking the battery back up.
Also, if you relocated the battery to the interior, you should have mounted a circuit breaker within 12" or less of the positive terminal. That would have kept you from blowing the main fuse. Anything bad enough to blow the main 120A fuse can generate enough heat to start fires or melt wiring beneath/behind panels.
Good luck on finding the source of your problem.
11-23-02, 09:24 PM
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aight i went to crank it over and the battery died.
im using a mini honda battery.and ive been using it for power on and off.plus it was probably sitting still at the store for a few months.
it had enuff power to let me know my wiring is correct so far.then completely drained out.it is charging right now.so tomorrow i can turn it over to see if it is getting fuel.to see if all other wiring is good also.
im using a mini honda battery.and ive been using it for power on and off.plus it was probably sitting still at the store for a few months.
it had enuff power to let me know my wiring is correct so far.then completely drained out.it is charging right now.so tomorrow i can turn it over to see if it is getting fuel.to see if all other wiring is good also.