Upgrade to one large oil cooler
#1
Canadiana... Eh?
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Upgrade to one large oil cooler
Instead of running dual R1 coolers, has anyone upgraded thier stock drivers cooler (on a touring) to a single oversized MOCAL or similar 17-19 row?
How were the results? Where can I find an oversized cooler WITH a thermostat (I live in a colder climate) for a good price?
What would be proper width dimensions for a large cooler?
How were the results? Where can I find an oversized cooler WITH a thermostat (I live in a colder climate) for a good price?
What would be proper width dimensions for a large cooler?
Last edited by bc_fd3s; 10-16-09 at 06:46 PM.
#5
Canadiana... Eh?
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Don't forget, I live in BC... our average temps are 20-30* in the summer and under 10* through the fall/spring (I don't drive int he winter, or track the car on extremely hot days... like 35*+... oh and celcius not F)
#6
What has worked real well for me is just using a GZ or similiar Oil pan with the stock driver side cooler. Temps are never past 180 F even when taking abuse in 100 degree days. I've tested it on a few cars from 310-360rwhp and never seen a reason to change anything.
What are your oil temperatures like? I bet you don't need to upgrade anything..
What are your oil temperatures like? I bet you don't need to upgrade anything..
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#12
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Wow, that's a very impressive looking oil cooler. I'd always heard that the fans start becoming more of a hindrance to air flow once the car starts going faster than the fans can pump the air. Have noticed this happening at all? I'm just curios because I've never seen oil coolers with shrouded fans before.
#13
Form follows function
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Wow, that's a very impressive looking oil cooler. I'd always heard that the fans start becoming more of a hindrance to air flow once the car starts going faster than the fans can pump the air. Have noticed this happening at all? I'm just curios because I've never seen oil coolers with shrouded fans before.
The fans are capable of moving more air than you can get through the cooler at any reasonable pressure drop and in no way impede airflow. They really help when idling or in heavy traffic and at low speeds. Fans are thermostatically controlled to operate at 200 deg F. and hold the temps rock solid as required. Fan shrouds are essential to improve fans' efficiency (and prevent recirculation).
Inlet ducting is still required to provide good results at speed. I use a modified stock duct sealed around the inlet.
PS: I think some of Fluidyne's race coolers with fan units are shrouded, FWIW.
#15
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the oil cooler on my FC when I was cleaning it out during the engine build. The inlet and outlet are on the same side using some metric threads. Note that the turbo and non turbo oil coolers are the same. The factory radiator and oil cooler on the 146hp nonturbo engines were WAY higher capacity than the FD's. I'm not sure how you would mount this in an FD. FC owners almost never upgrade their oil coolers, on almost any setup there's no point really.
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mine is like this, i haven't put fans on it yet. If you go by strictly volume, its about 80% bigger than stock R1 twins. It's a griffin cooler, I've forgotten the exact dimensions, something like 8x11x3
Last edited by FCNAred; 10-17-09 at 07:10 PM. Reason: add
#20
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I have done a few cars in my time and I would say the GZ pan is a good idea now that we have worked with Xsessive that make the pan to offer a level sender mounting hole and baffle.
I prefer two coolers for the Arizona climate however we have done a car with a single earls 25row cooler with great results. We did not use a thermostat however i dont recomend that unless in AZ and you can warm the car up before driving.
We currently use dual fluidyne coolers with earls 180 thermostat.
This is Dhalen's setup
I prefer two coolers for the Arizona climate however we have done a car with a single earls 25row cooler with great results. We did not use a thermostat however i dont recomend that unless in AZ and you can warm the car up before driving.
We currently use dual fluidyne coolers with earls 180 thermostat.
This is Dhalen's setup
#21
Canadiana... Eh?
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wow thanks for all of the answers...
I actually never ran an oil temp gauge when my car WAS running (blew a seal, waiting for new engine from DJSeven). I want to make this the most bulletproof car I can. It is running single and I plan to possibly run some track days down in Portland and California... so more cooling is better. I'll look into that big 3'' cooler!.. that looks mean and seems like it will do the job.
What has worked real well for me is just using a GZ or similiar Oil pan with the stock driver side cooler. Temps are never past 180 F even when taking abuse in 100 degree days. I've tested it on a few cars from 310-360rwhp and never seen a reason to change anything.
What are your oil temperatures like? I bet you don't need to upgrade anything..
What are your oil temperatures like? I bet you don't need to upgrade anything..
#22
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I was looking around at Fluidyne oil coolers... check this link out. Scroll all the wayt o the bottom
http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?tp...ction=category
http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?tp...ction=category
#23
Gap Slayer!
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I have done a few cars in my time and I would say the GZ pan is a good idea now that we have worked with Xsessive that make the pan to offer a level sender mounting hole and baffle.
I prefer two coolers for the Arizona climate however we have done a car with a single earls 25row cooler with great results. We did not use a thermostat however i dont recomend that unless in AZ and you can warm the car up before driving.
We currently use dual fluidyne coolers with earls 180 thermostat.
This is Dhalen's setup
I prefer two coolers for the Arizona climate however we have done a car with a single earls 25row cooler with great results. We did not use a thermostat however i dont recomend that unless in AZ and you can warm the car up before driving.
We currently use dual fluidyne coolers with earls 180 thermostat.
This is Dhalen's setup
a 180 thermostat also. But Kind of wondered if it would be over kill. I'm in Ohio. But Will be going to Track Days and Time Attacks All Over.
#24
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The cooler we are using is the 20 row it comes with -10an fitting adapters.
DB-30120
Plate-Fin Engine Oil Cooler Trans or Rear End
11x8x2 .51 4 AN-10
As i am sure you know running duals is going to depend on your set up and current temps i would say any real track use it would be good setup. We are going to put screens in to cut down on road wear.
DB-30120
Plate-Fin Engine Oil Cooler Trans or Rear End
11x8x2 .51 4 AN-10
As i am sure you know running duals is going to depend on your set up and current temps i would say any real track use it would be good setup. We are going to put screens in to cut down on road wear.