Instead of running dual R1 coolers, has anyone upgraded thier stock drivers cooler (on a touring) to a single oversized MOCAL or similar 17-19 row?

How were the results? Where can I find an oversized cooler WITH a thermostat (I live in a colder climate) for a good price?

What would be proper width dimensions for a large cooler?

 

Probably doesn't have quite the cooling capacity of 2 smaller oil coolers, but that does seem like a good alternative.

 

I'm gonna be running one of the 2nd gen long oil coolers for my NA 20b. They are almost 4 times the size of just the 1 fd unit. Mines gonna be properly ducted so it should cool really well. When I get it running.

 

Do you have a pic of the second gen cooler? Wonder why mazda would go up in power and down in cooler capacity....

 

Don't forget, I live in BC... our average temps are 20-30* in the summer and under 10* through the fall/spring (I don't drive int he winter, or track the car on extremely hot days... like 35*+... oh and celcius not F)

 

What has worked real well for me is just using a GZ or similiar Oil pan with the stock driver side cooler. Temps are never past 180 F even when taking abuse in 100 degree days. I've tested it on a few cars from 310-360rwhp and never seen a reason to change anything.

What are your oil temperatures like? I bet you don't need to upgrade anything..

 

How much more does the GZ oil pan hold?

 

You can find a pic of one on ebay. Packaging is probably the main reason as the factory twin set-up doesn't leave much room in the engine bay. Also the turbo Fc had it's IC on top of the engine leaving more room in front for larger heat exchangers.

 

This thread gave me a idea...
Im going to get one big oil cooler and use the other side to get air to my turbo.
Im currently running stock duel coolers.

 

A lot of people do that here, their argument is that one flows faster than two.
Works just as good as the twins on the track from what I've seen

Just be sure to make a splash shield for it if you drive your car in the wet.

 

I use one 25 row setrab with fans on it. It works fine. Additional sump capacity is always a good idea too, and it will help prolong the life of the lubricant.

 

Wow, that's a very impressive looking oil cooler. I'd always heard that the fans start becoming more of a hindrance to air flow once the car starts going faster than the fans can pump the air. Have noticed this happening at all? I'm just curios because I've never seen oil coolers with shrouded fans before.

 

Thank you....

The fans are capable of moving more air than you can get through the cooler at any reasonable pressure drop and in no way impede airflow. They really help when idling or in heavy traffic and at low speeds. Fans are thermostatically controlled to operate at 200 deg F. and hold the temps rock solid as required. Fan shrouds are essential to improve fans' efficiency (and prevent recirculation).

Inlet ducting is still required to provide good results at speed. I use a modified stock duct sealed around the inlet.

PS: I think some of Fluidyne's race coolers with fan units are shrouded, FWIW.

 

do you have pics of that mounted on the car Speed of light?

 

the oil cooler on my FC when I was cleaning it out during the engine build. The inlet and outlet are on the same side using some metric threads. Note that the turbo and non turbo oil coolers are the same. The factory radiator and oil cooler on the 146hp nonturbo engines were WAY higher capacity than the FD's. I'm not sure how you would mount this in an FD. FC owners almost never upgrade their oil coolers, on almost any setup there's no point really.

 

This is a nice idea! What are some of you doing for ducting? If your using
a larger oil cooler with a stock bumper. The amount of air hitting the
oil cooler is still limited? Just wondering if some of you are running different
bumpers for this?

 

No duct need here! On the other hand, it's probably not even connected

 

^^thats weird

 

mine is like this, i haven't put fans on it yet. If you go by strictly volume, its about 80% bigger than stock R1 twins. It's a griffin cooler, I've forgotten the exact dimensions, something like 8x11x3

 

I have done a few cars in my time and I would say the GZ pan is a good idea now that we have worked with Xsessive that make the pan to offer a level sender mounting hole and baffle.

I prefer two coolers for the Arizona climate however we have done a car with a single earls 25row cooler with great results. We did not use a thermostat however i dont recomend that unless in AZ and you can warm the car up before driving.

We currently use dual fluidyne coolers with earls 180 thermostat.



This is Dhalen's setup

 

wow thanks for all of the answers...

I actually never ran an oil temp gauge when my car WAS running (blew a seal, waiting for new engine from DJSeven). I want to make this the most bulletproof car I can. It is running single and I plan to possibly run some track days down in Portland and California... so more cooling is better. I'll look into that big 3'' cooler!.. that looks mean and seems like it will do the job.

 

I was looking around at Fluidyne oil coolers... check this link out. Scroll all the wayt o the bottom

http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?tp...ction=category

 

Are you using the -12AN Hose and fittings? I was going to go dual fluidyne with
a 180 thermostat also. But Kind of wondered if it would be over kill. I'm in Ohio. But Will be going to Track Days and Time Attacks All Over.

 

The cooler we are using is the 20 row it comes with -10an fitting adapters.

DB-30120

Plate-Fin Engine Oil Cooler Trans or Rear End
11x8x2 .51 4 AN-10

As i am sure you know running duals is going to depend on your set up and current temps i would say any real track use it would be good setup. We are going to put screens in to cut down on road wear.

 

yeah, I had already planned on running duals. But didn't think maybe one
upgraded cooler would be enough. Yeah I will be putting in screens also.
Its a must thing I think.

Cool Thanks for the info!