dtn666

iTrader: (1)

Here's an update:

I took the car to Hayes Rotary and they did the bubble test (with a big funnel cap filled with coolant attached to the filler neck) and it failed (easier to see the bubbles with that thing attached). So they said I need a new/rebuilt engine. Don also said that I should replace the 13 lb AST cap with a 16 lb cap. I did that and the car drove fine for a couple of days.

I still couldn't believe that I needed a new engine (Mazda reman with 28K miles!!!) so I took SPURVO's advice and made an appointment at Bothel Import to check for signs of hydrocarbons in the coolant.

Well, this morning I started the car and it idled roughly with lots of white smoke and the coolant smell. So I cancelled my appointment with Bothel Imports (no point doing the sniffer test now).

No more false hope, I need a rebuilt/new engine.

My plan is to have 3mm seals, street port, and silicon/teflon O-rings in the new engine. Will I need a new ECU since I already have a DP and CB?

Is there anything else I should have done to make the car more reliable? I also have a Fluidyne radiator (4 months new).

spurvo

Actually, the 16 lb cap makes the problem worse as this forces more coolant into the engine due to the higher pressure. Read up on Hayes Rotary, if'n you haven't yet. 16 lb cap was replaced by MAZDA with the 13 for a reason. Yes, the cooling system will work marginally better at the higher pressure, but at the cost of the rest of the system, IMO. Anyways... VERY sad to hear your bad news. I remember the sphincter clutch I had when I saw the tiny bubbles... sigh.

If you are only driving short distances, you can actually drive for a while on the blown seal. Just carry coolant/water mix in your rear bin, like I did. And when people ask why your car is leaking green stuff after you shut it off, just smile and say it's drooling back!

I DO NOT reccomend the CRC block weld method, as this will clog up the radiator and heater (Majik can probably find that old thread with pictures. icky!). Save up and do it right.

Steet port with CB and DP ONLY will not necessarily need a new ECU, but you should get one to take advantage of the power increase available with the port (spark timing needs to be shifted to take advantage of the larger intake charge, or some such nonsense). If you throw an intake on there, you are asking for trouble without a tuned ECU.

When I repoped my engine, I replaced the clutch, vacuum lines (I only counted 67), coolant hoses, ALL gaskets. I had Pineapple crack open a remanufactured engine I bought from Ray Crowe at Malloy Mazda (they're on the east cosat, I had it shipped directly to Pineapple) and check that all was well. The rotor bearings showed severe use, so they replaced them and sewed the short block back up. I went down there over a weekend and picked up the engine. Got a real nice tour for free (well, I did give 'em $800 for the inspection and all...). Anyway, I'm over 7000 miles with nary a problem (a few in the beginning, coolant leak and weird tapping sound at idle that went away at 1000 miles). Total cost was in the $6K neighborhood (new alternator, new air pump, new this new that! Ray REALLY likes me )

I'm rambling now. 3mm seals aren't worth it unless you plan on running high boost where you expect detonation and want to save your rotor housings somewhat. For more stock application, 2mm are just fine, again IMO. Plus, why pay all that money for machining?

The improved O-rings seem to be working fine for me so far, so that is worth it. Cryo treated oil hardware seems like snake oil to me, but I had Pineapple do it anyway for the 5-year warantee (YES, I know others are having issues with those guys wrt their warantee and all that. They did right by me, so they're fine in my book, end of discussion from my POV).

Bothell Import quoted me 1K for the install. There was another guy on here the other month that had them R&R his engine after it failed as they were diagnosing a boost issue. I haven't heard from him to find out how it went. Again Steve Hayes (Don's nephew, I'm given to understand. I was politely asked to not inquire as to the familial relationship... seems Don's reputation precedeth him!) at BI knows these cars pretty well, and they're good people.

That's all from Walton corner for now. Good luck, and sorry again! It'll work out... it'll just cost more than you thought. Then it'll stop costing you.. HAHAHAHA, I crack me up. Actually, since the R&R, nothing much has been a problem. Oops, there I went and pissed off the rotary gods. sigh... I'm in for an eventful drive home, I can FEEL it!

Bye now...

deified

I had a very similar problem. My coolant light would come on and I knew I wasn't low. There were two possible situations.

1) The old fluid had never really been filtered out well enough and had left deposits needing to be cleaned out.

-solution- Go to a mechanic that can do a power flush for your coolant.

2) Thermometer has issues, and is not picking up the right temperature even though you have coolant.

-solution- Thermometer either needs to be replaced or repaired. Might just be the sensor.

deified

Oops, Didn't see your last comment. Hope your next one works out for you.

dtn666

iTrader: (1)

Fortunately, I have an extended warranty. The only snag is they want to send out an inspector to look at my engine before they approve the engine replacement.

The reason I want to get the 3mm seals is gas, I always buy 92 Octane, but I want to protect myself in case I'm in a rural area (I like to go on LONG drives) and can't find a BP or Texaco. All it takes is one crappy tank of gas and boom (again).

I was thinking about getting a new ECU, but it seems that M2's (Mostly Mazda?) ECU does not support ported engines (fine print on their web site). I'll look into Pettit's ECU.

I kinda figured that if the O-rings were broken, then the 16 lb caps would make it worse. But at the time I was still in denial (despite the bubbles) and I was hoping that the 13 lb OEM Mazda cap was not really holding 13 lbs (read that somewhere on the forum) and causing similar problems.

I have no plans to do the CRC block weld method, I'm not running 100% water in the middle of the winter in this area.

As for Hayes Rotary. I did do a search and found some negative comments, but my personal experience has always been good (through 2 RX-7s); so I'm inclined to give them my business until they prove otherwise.

Thanks for the moral (and technical) support.

johnchabin

iTrader: (2)

Your car MUST be bone stock when inspected. They will find any reason to reject your claim. I have been down that road.

lane_change

iTrader: (20)

Well since we are on the topic some....here is my coolant buzzer scenario.

When I slow down sometimes at a stoplight the coolant buzzer will come on and stay on until I start moving again. It will only do this once in a while....sometimes with days/weeks in between. I have went home and checked the coolant, all is well....maybe an 1/8th of a cup low...nothing big. Could be overflow or something...not sure, but it does not use any coolant, nor does it smoke on startup, nor do I have any bubbles when I test the system. I have only had the car for a few weeks now and I have had no other problems than this annoying buzzer once in a while. I have not replaced any of the coolant lines, caps, etc..yet...still exactly the way I bought it. It does have the AST eliminated...like my last FD did...but it seems to me that I have air in the system, but I have burped it a few different times to make sure all the air was out of the system, but I can't figure out why it only comes on when I slow down or stop....and then goes right back off when I start driving again.

Could it be a loose connection, cap, cracked line, o-ring, etc....has anyone heard of a car doing this before? My last FD blew a coolant seal, so I know the signs of that....but this FD is just confusing me all together. I am going to try and replace the radiator lines, heater lines, and the cap to see if I can't find the problem....but I am just checking to see if anyone has heard of this and has any insight as to what may be causing it.

Thanks,
Scott

spurvo

I'd guess loose connection, lane. Pull the Y pipe crossover (the black tube running TO the IC FROM the turbos) and it's mounting bracket (held with those two 10mm bolts). That's the first connection the sensor goes to. You can try grounding that wire and checking to see if the buzzer continues. It sounds like your coolant system is fine...

If I recall correctly, the next connection for the buzzer is inside the cabin, behind the heater, connector X-07 (I think), in case the problem is not at the engine. Happy hunting!

johnchabin

iTrader: (2)

When the engine RPM (and the waterpump RPM) both slow to idle, you get the buzzer, according to your post. Sounds like air in your system that gets forced back around with an increase in coolant pressure. Just a guess.

At risk of starting an AST debate, you don't have one, uh, oh, nevermind...

bludskorge

I know this sounds weird but the coolant thats being pushed back out is kinda like a piston engine when your head gasket goes. it creates pressure and when you shut the car off it will push the coolant back out through the path with least resistance. it has happened to my camaro. it most likely is the o-ring or maybe a water jacket is a little blocked up try bringing the car to sts and getting a coolant flush they use some kind of high pressure technique it mught help. but if you need to rebuild your engine then instead of getting a new therm make your own fan switch. Thats what I did when I start the car both fans turn on high when I shut the car off they turn off. Also the res filler will crack alot because there is no opening on the caps most cars the filler cap has venting holes to relieve some pressure build up. hey I dont know much but I had problems with my coolant had it rebuilt and my coolant guage hasnt even hit mid way yet even in dead traffic.

spurvo

- Also the res filler will crack alot because there is no opening on the caps most cars the filler cap has venting holes to relieve some pressure build up. -

The pressure relief for the overflow is on the bottle portion itself, right next to where the neck joins the body of the bottle. If you follow the neck down, you will see a little black ring on top. That's the releif, and that's also where the coolant comes from when you get the pass headlight drool.

Jdot

I was on the way home from work and my coolant buzzer went off. While I was replacing the coolant I dropped and lost the filler cap. "doh" Next day I went to advanced auto and picked up a spring cap because thats all they had. I've been driving the car on and off and the car has not been low on coolant since I've done this. Questions are, What purpose does the non spring cap preform, and why has the spring cap seemed to have retarded my coolant leak?