I'll start from the top, maybe I missed something obvious. I was having starting issues with my car recently. It would crank but would not start like it was an almost dead battery but the battery is brand new or it wasn't getting enough fuel but I can smell a lot of fuel after trying to start it. So then I realized it might be the ignition. Come to find out that it was bad spark plug wires. So I replaced them with Jacobs spark plug wires and I changed all the spark plugs with brand new NGK 9's. Now the car is starting and it was smoking pretty good at first start up, I believe it just burned up all the fuel and oil that wasn't getting properly burned before. So I take it for a test drive, car does great with no boost but once I open throttle I get 10psi on the first primary turbo, once it hits 3k rpm it bucks alittle bit, and it won't let me go passed 3k rpm while wot. It kinda shuts down but doesn't stall. I thought at first that it is ignition break up but it only happens at 3k when the secondary prespool happens. My guess is now that it is a solienod or the turbos themselves. Does anybody else have any suggestions or am I on the right track. I'm going to take the car in to have it looked at but I want to make sure that it is nothing small or stupid. I checked all the vaccum hoses and they look connected (the ones that I can see without taking anything off). The hose to the map sensor is connected. Spark plug wires are on tight. I do not have a catalytic converter, I have a mid pipe and downpipe so it can't be clogged. Any help would be a blessing. Thanks

Mods:
Koyo radiator
3" dp,mp,cb
intake
xs power intercooler
aluminum ast
greddy boost controller (but it's not working and I took the pills out of the acuator lines, but it was running fine before, boost won't go past 10psi)

 

First suggestion would be to pull codes, this is a typical indication of limp mode.

 

Thanks for the tip CantGoStraight but if the car was throwing codes, would the check engine light be on or is that not always the case? My check engine light is not on, or doesnt come on when the car bucks and wont transition.

 

Sorry about the double post but I did research about the check engine light and limp mode. I will see if it throwing codes tommorow, and reset the ECU. I will post back later to say what happened. Hopefully its a good post lol.

 

I dont see any mention of an after market ECU. You have listed a full exhaust of dp, mp, and catback. Also, you said your boost controller isint working.

My guess here is you did not port the wastegate on the turbo's if you still have the twins, which i think you still have. If this is the case, you have to be careful of boost creep, and overboosting.

Otherwise it sounds like you are in limp mode. Try resetting the ECU. Did you do anything to the silicone hose's? Simplification in any way??

 

Thanks a million times to CantGoStraight! I pulled the code and it said it was the fuel pump relay. I just took the relay out and put it back in and resetted the ecu. The problem is gone! FierceAlien, no i do not have an aftermarket ecu and I did not port the wastegate. I am watching boost creep carefully, I don't take the car out that often because of it. I'm going to take it in as soon as I can to get the boost controller working. I tried all I can to troubleshoot that problem but can't figure it out. Also I'm saving up for a PowerFC too. Thanks for your concern, but I realize that my setup right now is a big no no. I'm getting it right as soon as I can.

 

There are other options to buying the PFC ... you could bolt up some restrictor plates in your exhaust somewhere'z ... or port the wastegate, which even at a shop should be less $$ than a pfc, right? might even find some hoses or other things that need replacing, like the manual boost controller..

do you still have the stock intake? could probably run an upgraded intake with only a ported wastegate and properly controlled boost at 10psi. maybe put the extra $$ into a nice afr gauge or one of those dual egt gauges from Pineapple Racing - http://www.pineappleracing.com/index...TS&Category=22

That pro sleeve heat shielding looks like good stuff too...

idk, plenty of reliability mods can be done for the price of a PFC, not that it's a bad mod, but it IS quite a bit of money.