Twins have had enough!!
08-21-12, 12:38 PM
#1
Twins have had enough!!
I am in the middle of buying a house and if I tell my Fiancé that I am buying a turbo to start a single turbo setup she would kill me.
I noticed the other day on a drive that when i beat up on the car a little and turned it off it smelled like burning oil, I know I didnt have any leaks.
I did pay to much attention since I though it was another car close to ming. When I drive home the car under boost made a loud sound like if it almost had an external waste gate. I was a bit confused because it still had the same power and throttle response.
I get home and the oil smell was still there. When I pop the hood I see that around the BOV, the Y-Pipe and the intakes there was a bit of oil. I have never see that before. I think that means that the seals in the turbos are gone.
I really dont want to drive the car like that because I dont want to starve the motor of oil.
I finished my V-Mount kit and the only thing I need to do is make the ducting for it. This is what it currently looks like
I was thinking of either selling this kit to help me fund getting a single turbo. Based on what it looks like and also that it is very functional without any ducting how much can one ask for a kit like this?
My temps before this kit with a front mount and the Koyo rad at night in 80 degree weather were 82. Now driving in the same humid and hot florida at 80 degrees I sit at 78. If I go into boost and beat it up and bit it does go to 79 and sometimes 80 if it is really hot. Before the kit it would rise up to 84-86.
Anyways thanks for reading this and your input would be greatly appreciated.
I noticed the other day on a drive that when i beat up on the car a little and turned it off it smelled like burning oil, I know I didnt have any leaks.
I did pay to much attention since I though it was another car close to ming. When I drive home the car under boost made a loud sound like if it almost had an external waste gate. I was a bit confused because it still had the same power and throttle response.
I get home and the oil smell was still there. When I pop the hood I see that around the BOV, the Y-Pipe and the intakes there was a bit of oil. I have never see that before. I think that means that the seals in the turbos are gone.
I really dont want to drive the car like that because I dont want to starve the motor of oil.
I finished my V-Mount kit and the only thing I need to do is make the ducting for it. This is what it currently looks like
I was thinking of either selling this kit to help me fund getting a single turbo. Based on what it looks like and also that it is very functional without any ducting how much can one ask for a kit like this?
My temps before this kit with a front mount and the Koyo rad at night in 80 degree weather were 82. Now driving in the same humid and hot florida at 80 degrees I sit at 78. If I go into boost and beat it up and bit it does go to 79 and sometimes 80 if it is really hot. Before the kit it would rise up to 84-86.
Anyways thanks for reading this and your input would be greatly appreciated.
08-21-12, 12:44 PM
#2
¿¿What are pistons??
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Why dont you just get another set of twins for cheap to hold you over until you have the funds for a single build? Selling a V-mount really won't even get you 1/4 of the cost of going single.
08-21-12, 07:53 PM
#3
I have a friend that can get me a set of twins, but for the amount of work required to install them to hold me over another 6 months id rather try and make the single turbo happen.
All you really need is fuel which I have the primaries already. I will need a fuel pump and regulator. Then another 100 or so on fuel lines.
The turbo I want will run 750 + a wastegate around 250-300. The manifold I am going to make and the kit wil run around 200 bucks. I have most of the other misc piping.
Then I just get rid of the unnecessary plugs and that should be it right?
08-21-12, 09:07 PM
#4
Trust us..... You dont want be cheap with a single turbo.....
And If I were you, I'd really consider getting another set of twins for cheap, like previously stated.
6months goes by pretty quick, and during that time after you settle into your house, you can set money aside to properly build a single turbo setup.
Expect to put aside AT LEAST $4k if you piece it together yourself. And a WHOLE LOT OF TIME
And If I were you, I'd really consider getting another set of twins for cheap, like previously stated.
6months goes by pretty quick, and during that time after you settle into your house, you can set money aside to properly build a single turbo setup.
Expect to put aside AT LEAST $4k if you piece it together yourself. And a WHOLE LOT OF TIME
08-21-12, 10:09 PM
#5
Trust us..... You dont want be cheap with a single turbo.....
And If I were you, I'd really consider getting another set of twins for cheap, like previously stated.
6months goes by pretty quick, and during that time after you settle into your house, you can set money aside to properly build a single turbo setup.
Expect to put aside AT LEAST $4k if you piece it together yourself. And a WHOLE LOT OF TIME
And If I were you, I'd really consider getting another set of twins for cheap, like previously stated.
6months goes by pretty quick, and during that time after you settle into your house, you can set money aside to properly build a single turbo setup.
Expect to put aside AT LEAST $4k if you piece it together yourself. And a WHOLE LOT OF TIME
08-21-12, 10:19 PM
#6
Theres other things you're going to want to buy to ensure a properly working setup.
Yes, you could conceivably just by a manifold, wasgate and turbo and the necessary oil/coolant feed and return lines and modify your piping and retune with some added fuel mods.... but DOING IT RIGHT, costs money.
You always want to "over budget" your project incase **** happens.
Yes, you could conceivably just by a manifold, wasgate and turbo and the necessary oil/coolant feed and return lines and modify your piping and retune with some added fuel mods.... but DOING IT RIGHT, costs money.
You always want to "over budget" your project incase **** happens.
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08-22-12, 01:10 AM
#8
I noticed you said that there was oil near the Y pipe and BOV area in general, yet it boosts fine and appears to run okay, despite the noise and oil.
How many miles/km are on those twins?
Is it a fine mist of oil coating everything, or a thicker, heavier haemmorrage (sp) of oil?
Did you go over all the connections? Can you see where exactly the oil originates from?
If I were in your shoes with the house and everything, it would be better for the wallet to repair or replace whatever's gone wrong, and continue enjoying the car.
A single turbo is going to be costly to do properly, and costly to do improperly (and then have to do it again, properly..)
Here in Australia, our cars being RHD, we have the annoying steering shaft running down past the twins, very close next to them. Yet we can still remove the twins and replace them without having to remove the engine. If your car is a LHD US car, you have more room to get the twins out compared to us (a real luxury lol).
How many miles/km are on those twins?
Is it a fine mist of oil coating everything, or a thicker, heavier haemmorrage (sp) of oil?
Did you go over all the connections? Can you see where exactly the oil originates from?
If I were in your shoes with the house and everything, it would be better for the wallet to repair or replace whatever's gone wrong, and continue enjoying the car.
A single turbo is going to be costly to do properly, and costly to do improperly (and then have to do it again, properly..)
Here in Australia, our cars being RHD, we have the annoying steering shaft running down past the twins, very close next to them. Yet we can still remove the twins and replace them without having to remove the engine. If your car is a LHD US car, you have more room to get the twins out compared to us (a real luxury lol).
08-22-12, 07:48 AM
#9
Dont think I am trying to contradict what you are all saying, but I just never though It would cost so much money. I have build other piston engines in the past and I had to do a full build of the engine before slapping the turbo on the engine.
My car has 75K miles on it and I have paperwork of an engine build but never anything about the turbos so I am assuming they are the original twins.
The oil is not a thick gunky film is more of a oil sweat all over the charge pipe. I am sure if I pull the IC there will a good amount of oil in the lines. I have been noticing for a while not that on the front of the BOV where is blows off oil was spitting out.
The Rotary engine doesnt need to be build to put a bigger turbo, even though it is nice to get it ported it can have a single turbo in its stock form. I am only planning on running around 15psi max getting me to around 350RWHP
What is a list of things I need in order to make this happen the right way? I want to calculate pricing
Like i said I do all my own work as far as welding the manifold and IC piping so that is a big help :-)
My car has 75K miles on it and I have paperwork of an engine build but never anything about the turbos so I am assuming they are the original twins.
The oil is not a thick gunky film is more of a oil sweat all over the charge pipe. I am sure if I pull the IC there will a good amount of oil in the lines. I have been noticing for a while not that on the front of the BOV where is blows off oil was spitting out.
The Rotary engine doesnt need to be build to put a bigger turbo, even though it is nice to get it ported it can have a single turbo in its stock form. I am only planning on running around 15psi max getting me to around 350RWHP
What is a list of things I need in order to make this happen the right way? I want to calculate pricing
Like i said I do all my own work as far as welding the manifold and IC piping so that is a big help :-)
08-22-12, 08:37 AM
#10
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
As far as Option A (put a set of twins on) goes, you're looking at max $300 for a good set of stock twins. Get some new oil return gaskets and new coolant hoses, get some new exhaust studs and nuts, and it will take you probably about 4-5 hours to swap them over. It's not a bad job at all.
Then, when you do want to go single turbo, you'll have a good set of twins to sell. You can also start buying and stockpiling parts for your single turbo.
Now, your horsepower goals of 350 - you can do that with the stock twins with much more power under the curve. The real advantage of a single turbo is more power, 400+, but that also means bigger fuel system, heavier clutch, etc. to support that power level.
Dale
Then, when you do want to go single turbo, you'll have a good set of twins to sell. You can also start buying and stockpiling parts for your single turbo.
Now, your horsepower goals of 350 - you can do that with the stock twins with much more power under the curve. The real advantage of a single turbo is more power, 400+, but that also means bigger fuel system, heavier clutch, etc. to support that power level.
Dale
08-22-12, 10:55 AM
#12
Also a parts list for a single turbo setup.
08-22-12, 11:21 AM
#13
As others have said "if you must" fix your car now get yourself some used twins. Going single when you are trying to buy a house is a bad idea. If you are not military you are gonna need at least 20% down in order not pay mortgage insurance, also the having the more cash can only help in getting locking in a better interest rate.
I'm now sure how the military loans work so I won't comment on that other than it's always a good idea to have cash around to fix stuff on the house
Something tells me that if you sell it to go single you will find yourself looking for another vmount in the near future.
I'm now sure how the military loans work so I won't comment on that other than it's always a good idea to have cash around to fix stuff on the house
Something tells me that if you sell it to go single you will find yourself looking for another vmount in the near future.
Last edited by Montego; 08-22-12 at 11:43 AM.
08-22-12, 11:41 AM
#14
Rotary Enthusiast
Dude, have you looked for cracks on metal parts? I would performance on hold and just get her fixed. The house is more important.
08-22-12, 05:06 PM
#20
Na thanks Flying Solo. Id be loosing a bit in that trade. I might just take my buddies set of twins and use them for the time being. The make them full non sequential and also get rid of all of rats nest.
I am going to make the ducting on the V-mount setup and prob sell it to help me fund the Single turbo project. In the mean time with the money I get I will buy another IC core and a radiator core to make an even nastier V-mount setup :-)
I really appreciate all of your guys's info and advice.
I am going to make the ducting on the V-mount setup and prob sell it to help me fund the Single turbo project. In the mean time with the money I get I will buy another IC core and a radiator core to make an even nastier V-mount setup :-)
I really appreciate all of your guys's info and advice.
08-22-12, 08:32 PM
#22
If that has no effect on this then the kit I made works like a champ. I would not mind making some kits, but since I dont have a place of my own right now makes it more complicated.
I am staying with my parents for the time being to save up as much as possible before we find the house we like/meets our needs.
08-22-12, 08:43 PM
#23
Here are a couple of shots you can see the air temps compared to the water temps. I also only have one factory oil cooler.
On the ones that the recorded highest temp was because of turning the car off hot then turning it back on :-)
On the ones that the recorded highest temp was because of turning the car off hot then turning it back on :-)
08-23-12, 08:08 AM
#24
See below for temps with correct units:
My temps before this kit with a front mount and the Koyo rad at night in 80F degree weather were 82C. Now driving in the same humid and hot florida at 80F degrees I sit at 78C. If I go into boost and beat it up and bit it does go to 79C and sometimes 80C if it is really hot. Before the kit it would rise up to 84-86C.
Those are cool water temps, that can be achieved by any properly ducted radiator setup. Ideally you want to run around 85C water temps. Under 80C is far too cool, the car has not fully warmed up and the ECU is still running a fuel modifier until the temps hit 80C (The ECU adds additional fuel in stages as the car warms up, the final stage is 80C). Your car should be able to get to at least 80C, I have a feeling that your thermostat may be stuck open, you dont have one or your fans are running all the time.
08-23-12, 09:47 AM
#25
Guys really? 
Double J was obviously joking...
+1
Double J was obviously joking...
Those are cool water temps, that can be achieved by any properly ducted radiator setup. Ideally you want to run around 85C water temps. Under 80C is far too cool, the car has not fully warmed up and the ECU is still running a fuel modifier until the temps hit 80C (The ECU adds additional fuel in stages as the car warms up, the final stage is 80C). Your car should be able to get to at least 80C, I have a feeling that your thermostat may be stuck open, you dont have one or your fans are running all the time.