Ronnie Campbell

I've been searching with no luck to find a list or breakdown of options when converting from twin turbo based on $ and HP.

Anyone seen something like that, or have recommendations based on cost, and expected HP boost vs reliability and installation ?

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

It would be hard to make a concrete list since there are SO many options out there. There's the cost of the turbo/manifold to start with, but then you need an ECU, larger fuel pump, intercooler, better radiator - each one of those items has a large range of options and prices.

Stock cars make around 220 to the rear wheels on a dyno. You can get them to around 330-350hp to the ground with appropriate mods and tuning. Low 400's on the BNR turbos.

Single turbos start around 350hp to the ground then go as high as you can push the engine. More power on a single will mean more lag and less response.

Figure out what you are going to be using the car for, that will start to narrow options. Any decent single turbo set up will cost a good amount ($3000+) for just the main turbo setup, but you'll need everything else to go with it.

Dale

Banzai-Racing

iTrader: (11)

Here is our single turbo dyno gallery Banzai Racing FD Dyno Gallery

Click on the picture of the car and it will bring you to that customer's build page, most of the mods are listed. The cost to build a single turbo car 10-15 years ago is far different from today. Parts and technology change. As Dale said everything needs to be upgraded, it can all be done on a budget with second hand older parts or new parts. Just the clutch can be anywhere from 600-$3k, as an example.

Testrun

How are the 99 specs or SP vs the BNRs if you wanted to stay sequential twin with more kick? Not trying to hijack thread, but it is inevitable that I will be looking and must decide single vs twin. I love the twin response, but it would be nice to have a modern thread about what's available on singles and single vs twin. A cost break down would be incredible, but also would need to take reliability into the equation also imo.

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

The 99's mainly have better response than the stock twins. I don't think they will necessarily make more power. I've been running the 99s for ages and mainly noted the difference in spool up.

Not sure on the SP twins, they aren't well documented at this point as far as I know.

Dale

fendamonky

iTrader: (6)

One thing to keep in mind if/when you put money into upgrading your sequential twins is that the solenoids that control them are VERY old by now and prone to stick/fail. This can cause a whole host of issues and annoyances. Upgrading or replacing them should be high on the list of things to do while you're chasing that process

Testrun

Damn good point. I forgot about that.

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

I have 135,000 miles on my car, I've had to replace one of the solenoids. That's it.

Dale

cib24

Stay with twins and get it running right. Twins at 15 PSI or so is about as quick as a modern M4 in a straight line (give or take of course). The car won't be slow. Going down the single route seems like a great idea and then you add up the costs and before you know it you have spent like $10-15k. You can do it for a lot less but most people don't end up with bills very low when doing the conversion.

Turbo
Custom manifold
Custom downpipe
Custom mid pipe
Custom front mount or V Mount solution
Move the battery
Upgraded coils
Larger injectors
Custom ECU
Bigger fuel pump
Clutch
Something else
Something else again
Something else again and again

Oh **** I have spent over $10k already....

dguy

iTrader: (8)

I think you're confusing 'making big power' with 'going single'. 3/4 of that list you've mentioned can be applied to a built twin setup as well as a single turbo setup.

Johnny Kommavongsa

iTrader: (13)

Hi Ronnie, for reference this is what I have in my setup.

On the black F
$800 Garrett T04 Journal Bearing Turbo

$300 Used HKS cast

$300 Custom DP

$0 on mid pipe as I already had one on the car

$600 on used BLITZ FMIC

$245 Tial BOV

$300 to move battery to the rear (redtop battery and cables)

$0 on upgraded coils and stock coils worked for my application

$100 for another set of secondary injectors for primary

$1000 for adaptronic ecu (estimated cost)

$210 for supra fuel pump

$500 dyno time and tune

$0 on clutch as I already had an upgraded one



Total for Version 1 - $4355



Attachment 614934



Version 2

$300 used HKS twin power

$700 for PFC

$700 for Bosch 2200s in the secondary rail, FFE rail and FPR

$500 dyno time and tune

Additional money spent for version 2 - $2200



On MB FD

$3400 IRP single turbo kit

$245 Tial BOV

$700 for upgraded injectors

$900 VMIC with intake on turbo

$700 for PFC

$500 dyno time and tune


Total spent for MB - $6445


Test fitting pic



Hope this helps.

The black one make 301 and MB makes 302 but I'm only running like 10-12 lbs of boost. More power can be made with more boost.

TwinCharged RX7

iTrader: (14)

Yeah. If you are building for more power either way. The main difference is the manifold and turbo.

You need fuel, ignition, ECU, downpipe, intercooler, clutch, etc... in both cases. Now depending on how much power you want with a single, you can get into territory where some of those things cost more.

Barry_Beef

Basically, Figure out what you need for the lists above and then price up how much it's going to cost and then add a few extra thousand
For me, I priced up the major parts then when going through and removing and installing - you always find bits that need attention or bits you want to do while everything is out, things you've missed etc