Where are those "you get what you pay for", "build it right, build it once", "rotorhousings should never be reused", and "he can't possibly be building a proper engine for that much money" people at right about now?

 

Someone told me that using the BNRs, would cause you to have to remove the air pump. Wouldn't that cause you not to pass smog? I want more power, but passing smog comes first in my book. Please shed some light, because i've been wondering this for awhile.

 

Why would you need to remove the airpump?
I wanna upgrade my turbos but i wanna keep the airpump

 

You don't need to remove the airpump. This is why you don't listen to what people tell you, most of the time they're wrong .

 

Dan, great numbers.. you said it was a customers car, who do I need to avoid in fear of getting left in the dust in the nashville area? haha.

 

Has anyone heard of the FAM speed japanese tuning company
they make these turbos for 499hp so i was wondering if anyone tried them, if they are any good

 

I made 440 RWHP on my 1st gen with an REW swap. I put some dingy looking rotor housings in it! I feel like I got away with something. From looking at it from the outside, it is detailed out and spotless. lol

If you want quality, you will pay for it. If you just want to get the car running and need a quick fix, then do it cheap. But there is always a chance for "low compression" or carbon lock or premature failure b/c of used parts or excessive wear.

Bryan@BNR
205 640 1193

 

Car is a Silver 93 with R1 lip and spoiler owned by Scott Meeks.

 

ROFLMAO

 

I was told this by Steve Kan. i bought the 99 twins because i thought they would put out more power than the stock twins, but they don't. I asked him if the BNRs were the way to go and he told me they will put out the HP i want but i would have to remove the air pump. Which for me is not an option.

 

Geez!!! Silver is a popular color in the area these days!! Chad, Garfinkle, myself, and Scott = silver not so rare in Nashville area

 

You were told wrong. The airpump can stay. The BNR's are exactly the same dimensionally as the stock twins.

 

So much for being graceful and humble

I know Fam Speed, but have not heard about a twin turbo setup w/ that power output from them to date. That's not to say they don't exist...

Steve was prob. telling you in the context of making the max power you can by running a MP, and Greddy pullies. But that's just my guess.

~Ramy

 

Maybe Steve was referring that in order to break X RWHP you have to remove the emmissions...

I sell lots of 3's in california which are strengent on visual and emmission inspections. The 3's are 1/2" longer than OEM (1/4" on each side). That 1/4 inch shouldn't be so much that you have to eliminate the air pump. At the very worst case, maybe ordering a 1/2" shorter belt and then retension the belt for more space which I have yet to hear.

Bryan@BNR
205 640 1193

 

any feedback on them ?
I also heard that Revolution has such a setup

but i dont know these companies

anyone got more info ? pics ? specs

Thanks

 

It's nice to be able to get a shot back in at the forum **** talkers every now and then, especially when I have unquestionable evidence to back it up.

As I've already told you, I could care less about engaging in 'sweet talk", "hand holding", or "politics", and I've never found it necessary anyway. We're not negotiating foreign trade agreements here, we're talking about old rotary engines. Those too sensitive for my posts need to return their computer to walmart because they have no business on the internet. There are lots of worse things out there than to be told the truth by someone like me who is actually helping people out.

 

Sorry Conn, I believe you've been misinformed. Both Fam Speed & Revolution make a SINGLE turbo kit capable of 500 PS, but not twins - at least not in the recent past and/or currently.

No one's arguing whether or not you should stand your ground, or maybe even a nice smug grin when things come full circle your way. But you know what? You'd do a much better at putting the naysayers in their place by being humble and subtle about it...but this way you simply affirm their negativity toward you. If it isn't due to distrust in your workmanship, it'll now be because of your attitude. Killin 'em with kindness is a method I'd *highly* suggest you try sometime. You'll get much better results IMO. But that's just my $0.02, take it or leave it.

~Ramy

 

Did you not have any problems with the solenoids at change-over or gear changes? Iv had mahoosive problems with my stock solenoids letting go at 17psi, they just dont want to work.
I tried 2 different sets but now im waiting for a uprated solenoid pack so hopefully with that sorted il be ready for the dyno. Considering im the only one in the country using these turbos nobody knows what to expect but at a guess id say its running 350ish rwhp maybe a little more...mods below...what you reckon?

BNR SIII's
Monster Street Port (http://www.mazdarotary.co.uk/index_files/page0002.htm)
Cosmo 13B UIM & LIM
Large Exhaust Ports
HKS Downpipe
Re- Amemiya Ti Exhaust
550 & 1680cc Inj
Pettit TKT Intake
HKS FMIC
Pettit Underdrive Pulley Kit

I think im making good power but nowhere near that figure! Thats astonishing! How do you guys cope with the heat aswell. When i go for a blast in my fd it gets sooooooooo f*cking hot compared to my single turbo fd! At that sort of power it must make a crazy amount of heat! What dyno was this on?

Rixio

 

Someone asked for a Dyno chart with air fuels so here it is:

 

Sure didn't, but if you have that problem you can add a pressure valve that vents at anything above 12psi to the pressure tank to solve it.

As for heat problems, was a pretty cool day when we dyno'ed, would say around 55~60 degrees F. Car has an upgraded radiator (Fluidyne) and Large Stock mount intercooler and we have 3 fans that run during dyno's. Temps stayed around 85c all day, with an occasional clime to 90c if we did fast back to back runs.

Dyno is a Dynojet

 

Forgot to mention i have a Feed Race rad aswell...its more the air/intake temps i was worried about. So this car only has a stock mount aswell?? Thats fantastic power!

P.S Whats a pressure valve when its at home :p

 

what is the highest amout of boost you can run on the bnr 3's as opposed to the 99 specs..???

 

The 3's can withstand up to 200K RPM which is around 23-24 psi of boost. But the turbine housings are your restriction. I usually tell people that the turbos tend to start hitting a head wind at around 18 psi. You can run them all day at that boost level and not hurt anything as long as there is adequate oil going to them and all the bov's and pipes are leak free.

The 99's are pretty much just like the S6 turbos. Same turbine design, same compressor. Only minor changes are made. The 99's still use the factory 270 degree thrust design which is bad for high boost applications. I wouldn't trust a 99 or a S6 stock turbo over 15 psi. There are people that go higher, but everything has to be perfect for them to live a long life.

Bryan@BNR
205 640 1193

 

Man...Chadwick basically had that motor pushing 524HP to the flywheel! Since 524 minus 15% drivetrain loss is 445! Dang. So that guy can tell people he has a 500HP FD and he won't be lying.

 

Pretty Impressive!! I've always been fan of Sequentials and this give more reasons to get BNRs in the future!! Single turbos are out when you could make this kind of power on seq. set up!