Twin turbo upgrade
12-20-07, 04:33 PM
#201
This point may be stating the obvious, but really, why are we wasting time with 15 year old parts? When my FD is going under the knife, I'm making sure that NOTHING 15 years old remains on the car. If left on, sooner than later, those parts will fail, and will only be a headache not only to diagnose, but also to repair as Mazda continues to discontinue parts for the FD on a regular basis. And the prices of those parts that remain will only continue to rise as availability decreases.
So while mileage may be low, one must also take age into consideration as well. There's a reason why manufacturers state year AND mileage restrictions on their warranties: because they know BOTH can lead to failures.
~Ramy
So while mileage may be low, one must also take age into consideration as well. There's a reason why manufacturers state year AND mileage restrictions on their warranties: because they know BOTH can lead to failures.
~Ramy
https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...6&postcount=22
BTW: I have Rob's solenoids, but since my sequential system has been working for the last 2+-years, I'm not going to touch it yet . .
:-) neil
12-20-07, 05:22 PM
#202
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
As a matter of fact I do 
6061 1/8" tube, I think they started life as 3 & 3.5" Diameter. The ends are 1/4" plate I believe so I could tap into it. I went and bought a used pressure tank & vac tank an methodically injected water to measure the volume than reverse engineered my tank.
6061 1/8" tube, I think they started life as 3 & 3.5" Diameter. The ends are 1/4" plate I believe so I could tap into it. I went and bought a used pressure tank & vac tank an methodically injected water to measure the volume than reverse engineered my tank.
12-20-07, 07:18 PM
#204
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
The keg matches the plenum It wasn't allllll that time consuming to make but if you're serious... shoot me a PM. I only wish I had more than 30A's available to weld the two tube together with. I haven't had a chance to get an electriction up so I'm stuck using the dryers 30A 220v as opposed to the 60A 200v that the machine can use. I would've been able to lay a nicer bead on top with more amps I believe. I pressure testes it upto ~100psi so I think I'll be good
It wasn't allllll that time consuming to make but if you're serious... shoot me a PM. I only wish I had more than 30A's available to weld the two tube together with. I haven't had a chance to get an electriction up so I'm stuck using the dryers 30A 220v as opposed to the 60A 200v that the machine can use. I would've been able to lay a nicer bead on top with more amps I believe. I pressure testes it upto ~100psi so I think I'll be good
12-21-07, 12:10 AM
#205
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The keg matches the plenum It wasn't allllll that time consuming to make but if you're serious... shoot me a PM. I only wish I had more than 30A's available to weld the two tube together with. I haven't had a chance to get an electriction up so I'm stuck using the dryers 30A 220v as opposed to the 60A 200v that the machine can use. I would've been able to lay a nicer bead on top with more amps I believe. I pressure testes it upto ~100psi so I think I'll be good
It wasn't allllll that time consuming to make but if you're serious... shoot me a PM. I only wish I had more than 30A's available to weld the two tube together with. I haven't had a chance to get an electriction up so I'm stuck using the dryers 30A 220v as opposed to the 60A 200v that the machine can use. I would've been able to lay a nicer bead on top with more amps I believe. I pressure testes it upto ~100psi so I think I'll be good Hey, just wanted to give you a tip. I saw on your can where it looked like a dirty spot when you TIG welded. If you would have drilled that hole and vented the can, it would have welded clean like the rest of it. when you weld it w/o holes it will spit and make a mess like you ran out of argon... You can probably grind that bad spot off and reweld it and it would look good...
You ought to make it out of polished stainless. It welds sooooo nice and the quality is 100% better than aluminum. You don't have to run as many amps for stainless. Stainless also looks awesome when you fuse weld it w/o filler rod but you have to have zero gap between what you are welding. You would make a quality piece the looks way better than the OEM tanks.
Bryan@BNR
Last edited by Bryan@BNR; 12-21-07 at 12:19 AM.
12-21-07, 06:29 AM
#206
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Bey Bryan thanks for the tips, I appreciate them tremendously. The endplate was already drilled and tapped to vent it althoug I often do forget. That bad spot is exactely what you thought it was, ran out of argon.
I had thought about the stainless but then realized I would need to weld a few bungs on or, well now that I think about it I guess I could've used the same SS brake line. I also don't have a 2nd tri-mix tank to us on the back of the welds.
I do appreciate the tips though. I've only had the machine for about a year and when that was done maybe 6 months or so. I do need more practice with stainless though, I keep using too many amps and really getting on the pedal too hard.
I bought one of the pyrex gas savers to try out.
Would there be a big demand for a replacement tank like this?
I had thought about the stainless but then realized I would need to weld a few bungs on or, well now that I think about it I guess I could've used the same SS brake line. I also don't have a 2nd tri-mix tank to us on the back of the welds.
I do appreciate the tips though. I've only had the machine for about a year and when that was done maybe 6 months or so. I do need more practice with stainless though, I keep using too many amps and really getting on the pedal too hard.
I bought one of the pyrex gas savers to try out.
Would there be a big demand for a replacement tank like this?
12-21-07, 12:30 PM
#207
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Depends on how it performs. Alot of the stock tanks crack in the seams and leak and the mounting tabs break off leaving things dangling. If you make a good quality piece I am sure you can sell a bunch of them. If you do the tanks and make a custom simplification kit you will be busy for a while to come.
As for stainless, set it up on DC- at about 130A. If you have a pulser, set that up to pulse 2.5 times a second. Also use a "Red" tungsten when doing aluminum and stainless.
Bryan@BNR
As for stainless, set it up on DC- at about 130A. If you have a pulser, set that up to pulse 2.5 times a second. Also use a "Red" tungsten when doing aluminum and stainless.
Bryan@BNR
