Twin Power Makes the car Dead
#1
Twin Power Makes the car Dead
Well, most of you guys know me and are familiar with me setup. Stock Motor with minor mods, which are as follows:
Peter Farrell intercooler and cold air box
Peter Farrell Purple Computer
HKS Down Pipe
Fujitsubo Super Ti Cat back
Supra fuel pump
B9EV Plugs
Magnacore 10.5 Wires
Flex Tein Coilovers
19x8.5 Front
19x 9.5 Rear
SX FPR
Car made 343 RWHP @ 15psi when dynoed 6 months ago. 12.2-12.4 AFR`s
So as the story continues all I needed was the ignition setup some more.
Decided on a MSD but due to the long install I started to way my options. The HKS Twin was over priced in my opinion so I decided to find a used one.
I eventually got one from another forum member and was so happy at the price that I`d paid. However, it didn't come with a harness. So I had to order one and wait as they were on back order.
I eventually got a new harness and proceeded to installed. I disconnected the battery and installed the harness to the plug which is right behind the power steering reservoir and then plug up the twin power and ground. Reconnect the battery and started the car.
Car started and Idled normal but hears the problem...
WHEN I DROVE THE CAR IT WOULDN'T GO INTO BOOST AND I HEARD A LOUD KNOCK COMING FROM THE ENGINE bay. I DISCONNECTED THE TWIN POWER AND SET IGNITION BACK TO STOCK AND THE CAR DIVER JUST LIKE IT DID WITH A LOT OF POWER.
WHAT COULD BE THE PROBLEM, was the TWIN POWER DEFECTIVE?
I know that I didn't have to retune the car for that would be senseless...If so, the twin power is useless in my opinion.
Any advice would be appreciated,
Thanks,
Andre
Peter Farrell intercooler and cold air box
Peter Farrell Purple Computer
HKS Down Pipe
Fujitsubo Super Ti Cat back
Supra fuel pump
B9EV Plugs
Magnacore 10.5 Wires
Flex Tein Coilovers
19x8.5 Front
19x 9.5 Rear
SX FPR
Car made 343 RWHP @ 15psi when dynoed 6 months ago. 12.2-12.4 AFR`s
So as the story continues all I needed was the ignition setup some more.
Decided on a MSD but due to the long install I started to way my options. The HKS Twin was over priced in my opinion so I decided to find a used one.
I eventually got one from another forum member and was so happy at the price that I`d paid. However, it didn't come with a harness. So I had to order one and wait as they were on back order.
I eventually got a new harness and proceeded to installed. I disconnected the battery and installed the harness to the plug which is right behind the power steering reservoir and then plug up the twin power and ground. Reconnect the battery and started the car.
Car started and Idled normal but hears the problem...
WHEN I DROVE THE CAR IT WOULDN'T GO INTO BOOST AND I HEARD A LOUD KNOCK COMING FROM THE ENGINE bay. I DISCONNECTED THE TWIN POWER AND SET IGNITION BACK TO STOCK AND THE CAR DIVER JUST LIKE IT DID WITH A LOT OF POWER.
WHAT COULD BE THE PROBLEM, was the TWIN POWER DEFECTIVE?
I know that I didn't have to retune the car for that would be senseless...If so, the twin power is useless in my opinion.
Any advice would be appreciated,
Thanks,
Andre
Last edited by andre sinclair; 03-12-05 at 01:47 AM.
#3
The Anti-Prius
iTrader: (9)
Originally Posted by andre sinclair
No one has any ideas!
One of the benifits of the twin power is the FD specific harness. Everything is plug & play.
Looks like you isolated the problem by installing, then removing the twin power. You might contact U.S. HKS & see if they can help you.
Plus if you know anyone in the local area with a FD, plug it into their's & see if the problem follows.
#4
Rotary Freak
iTrader: (8)
This statement is not descriptive enough for me, "I DISCONNECTED THE TWIN POWER AND SET IGNITION BACK TO STOCK AND THE CAR DIVER JUST LIKE IT DID WITH A LOT OF POWER."
Did you remove the Twin Power Harness or did you just disconnect the Twin Power from its harness?
If you disconnected the Twin Power from its harness and left the Twin Power's harness connected to the stock harness then that would tend to indicate the Twin Power is faulty.
However if you removed both the Twin Power and its harness you have not isolated the fault; the harness or Twin Power could be faulty.
Did you remove the Twin Power Harness or did you just disconnect the Twin Power from its harness?
If you disconnected the Twin Power from its harness and left the Twin Power's harness connected to the stock harness then that would tend to indicate the Twin Power is faulty.
However if you removed both the Twin Power and its harness you have not isolated the fault; the harness or Twin Power could be faulty.
#5
The Anti-Prius
iTrader: (9)
Originally Posted by books
This statement is not descriptive enough for me, "I DISCONNECTED THE TWIN POWER AND SET IGNITION BACK TO STOCK AND THE CAR DIVER JUST LIKE IT DID WITH A LOT OF POWER."
Did you remove the Twin Power Harness or did you just disconnect the Twin Power from its harness?
If you disconnected the Twin Power from its harness and left the Twin Power's harness connected to the stock harness then that would tend to indicate the Twin Power is faulty.
However if you removed both the Twin Power and its harness you have not isolated the fault; the harness or Twin Power could be faulty.
Did you remove the Twin Power Harness or did you just disconnect the Twin Power from its harness?
If you disconnected the Twin Power from its harness and left the Twin Power's harness connected to the stock harness then that would tend to indicate the Twin Power is faulty.
However if you removed both the Twin Power and its harness you have not isolated the fault; the harness or Twin Power could be faulty.
Possible bad harness??
Maybe...........
You stated you bought it used (for a good price)
Double check that it's the proper twin power for rotary engines.
There should be a sticker under the HKS logo that says "TYPE - ROTARY"
#6
Gentlemen,
Thanks for your responses. Yes, I completely disconnected the twin power box including the harness as well, when I reverted it back to stock. Futhermore, the twin power has the sticker that says, type-Rotary.
So I`m also convinced that it must be the box.
Question, the L. E. D light on the twin power box should be luminated bright once its all connected / grounded and the ignition on, Right?
For when I did that the light luminated very dim.
Thanks for your help,
Andre
Thanks for your responses. Yes, I completely disconnected the twin power box including the harness as well, when I reverted it back to stock. Futhermore, the twin power has the sticker that says, type-Rotary.
So I`m also convinced that it must be the box.
Question, the L. E. D light on the twin power box should be luminated bright once its all connected / grounded and the ignition on, Right?
For when I did that the light luminated very dim.
Thanks for your help,
Andre
Last edited by andre sinclair; 03-13-05 at 06:17 AM.
#7
A Fistfull of Dollars!
iTrader: (2)
Originally Posted by andre sinclair
Gentlemen,
Thanks for your responses. Yes, I completely disconnected the twin power box including the harness as well, when I reverted it back to stock. Futhermore, the twin power has the sticker that says, type-Rotary.
So I`m also convinced that it must be the box.
Question, the L. E. D light on the twin power box should be luminated bright once its all connected / grounded and the ignition on, Right?
For when I did that the light luminated very dim.
Thanks for your help,
Andre
Thanks for your responses. Yes, I completely disconnected the twin power box including the harness as well, when I reverted it back to stock. Futhermore, the twin power has the sticker that says, type-Rotary.
So I`m also convinced that it must be the box.
Question, the L. E. D light on the twin power box should be luminated bright once its all connected / grounded and the ignition on, Right?
For when I did that the light luminated very dim.
Thanks for your help,
Andre
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#10
A Fistfull of Dollars!
iTrader: (2)
Originally Posted by andre sinclair
I`ve learned from this experience...Thanks once again.
Andre
Andre
#11
Rotary Freak
iTrader: (8)
Originally Posted by Sled Driver
You have to unplug the twin power harness & reconnect the stock plugs back together, otherwise it wouldn't have started & run at all.
Possible bad harness??
Maybe...........
You stated you bought it used (for a good price)
Double check that it's the proper twin power for rotary engines.
There should be a sticker under the HKS logo that says "TYPE - ROTARY"
Possible bad harness??
Maybe...........
You stated you bought it used (for a good price)
Double check that it's the proper twin power for rotary engines.
There should be a sticker under the HKS logo that says "TYPE - ROTARY"
I just verified at least on my vehicle, that it is possible to disconnect the HKS Twin Power at its harness connector. I would suggest you verify this on your own vehicle.
Another possibilty is that your car's wiring is faulty and the Twin Power is merely amplifying the problem.
Yes, the light will come on with either the ignition switch turned on or the engine running.
#12
FD = Mr. Toad's Wild Ride
Join Date: Mar 2004
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Is it just me or is 12.2-12.4 pretty lean for 15PSI? The HKS TP might be burning the fuel even more making me wonder if the PFS purple have some sort of knock sensor and it is retarding the timing or something?
#13
Gents,
In reference to the Twin problem I too thought that PFS Purple computer had something to do with it. However, I was informed by the workers at Rx7store.net that it shouldn't be a problem.
I've contacted the seller and the Twin Power has been shipped back. Afterwards, he `s going to have it replace under warranty or either reimburse me my money.
As for the 12.2.-12.4 AFR`s If you run the fuel richer than that... At the shift point the car will have a very big flat spot... But when the ratio `s are a little lean it transitions very quickly. (Automatic)
Thanks again for the input,
Andre
In reference to the Twin problem I too thought that PFS Purple computer had something to do with it. However, I was informed by the workers at Rx7store.net that it shouldn't be a problem.
I've contacted the seller and the Twin Power has been shipped back. Afterwards, he `s going to have it replace under warranty or either reimburse me my money.
As for the 12.2.-12.4 AFR`s If you run the fuel richer than that... At the shift point the car will have a very big flat spot... But when the ratio `s are a little lean it transitions very quickly. (Automatic)
Thanks again for the input,
Andre
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