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Old 03-10-05, 02:18 AM
  #26  
No it's not Turbo'd

 
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Clutch switch will cause bad idle issues if it's bad, I allready went through that one, fixed the idle problems, now I have the clicking, I guess I'll have to go through the check list....

And 11.8 V is fine, as long as you see 13-14 v once the altenator is on, you're fine... you can crank the car with as little as 10v given enough aperage....
Old 03-10-05, 07:55 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by rzograbian
i have done some research and tests on my car and i know for a fact its inside the steering assy... why do i say this? because i get the clicking too but my car has a remote starter where i can start the car from a alarm remote and everytime that i try to start it, it works perfectly. i have never had it click. but i almost alway's get clicking when i try it with the key. the remote starter on my car gives direct power to the ingiter and bypasses the steering assy. thats why i think that whatever the problem is, its from the inside of the steering
Same Exact thing here..
I also have a alarm/remote start (did you copy me rzograbian? LOL) It starts every time with remote start but when I start with the key, it clicks.. Sometimes, when I hit the steering column before I turn the key (told by the owner before me), it starts.

I also have to agree with rzograbian, Because it start when I hit the steering column, i also think its something inside the column.. like maybe key assembly.

It doesn't bother me since I use my remote start 80+% of the time.
Old 03-10-05, 02:53 PM
  #28  
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i cant belive there are like 15 people on here with some form of starting circuit problem and no one has gone out to their cars with a multi meter and found out what is going on. with a meter, jack stand and a friend it should take 15 min
Old 03-10-05, 03:07 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by mad_7tist
i cant belive there are like 15 people on here with some form of starting circuit problem and no one has gone out to their cars with a multi meter and found out what is going on. with a meter, jack stand and a friend it should take 15 min
Too lazy!!
Old 03-10-05, 04:01 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by mad_7tist
i cant belive there are like 15 people on here with some form of starting circuit problem and no one has gone out to their cars with a multi meter and found out what is going on. with a meter, jack stand and a friend it should take 15 min
Looks like we got a volinteer. Good luck and let us know what you find.

R.K.
Old 03-10-05, 04:11 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by crazyrx7
Looks like we got a volinteer. Good luck and let us know what you find.

R.K.
LOL!!
Old 03-10-05, 04:17 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by DCrosby
Clutch switch will cause bad idle issues if it's bad, I allready went through that one, fixed the idle problems, now I have the clicking, I guess I'll have to go through the check list....

And 11.8 V is fine, as long as you see 13-14 v once the altenator is on, you're fine... you can crank the car with as little as 10v given enough aperage....
Cool, thanks. I do see 14s when the car starts.

Thanks
Ben
Old 03-10-05, 06:31 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by crazyrx7
Looks like we got a volinteer. Good luck and let us know what you find.

R.K.

i would never let my car or anyone elses i know/work on do this while i typed away at the computer. there are 2 switches on the clutch. the clutch switch for the computer. and the interlock for the starter. the interlock switch closes and completes the circuit to the s terminal of the starter when depressed. should be batt voltage going in and out when starting with the clutch in. a mechanical click from the starter means either you are not getting correct amperage to the motor ( big nut) 12 volts to the s terminal (black spade) or the starter is going bad. motor or solenoid does not matter as you are going to replace it as a unit so what. it is all a guess unless you get some readings so get out there!
Old 03-10-05, 07:33 PM
  #34  
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im tellin you guys, its the ignition switch... the part that you stick your key into, there is a little white piece on it that when u turn the key it completes a circut (battery to ignition switch to starter, makes the engine turn over.)

This thing goes bad more often than the clutch switch and starter do, I know this because I've been through it twice on two FD's. I have a starter sitting in my garage btw if anyone wants to throw me a few bucks.

But yea.... ignition switch
Old 03-10-05, 08:30 PM
  #35  
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Interesting. I have been having this problem too. I'd like to see what the real deal is.
Old 03-10-05, 11:47 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by spoolage
im tellin you guys, its the ignition switch... the part that you stick your key into, there is a little white piece on it that when u turn the key it completes a circut (battery to ignition switch to starter, makes the engine turn over.)

This thing goes bad more often than the clutch switch and starter do, I know this because I've been through it twice on two FD's. I have a starter sitting in my garage btw if anyone wants to throw me a few bucks.

But yea.... ignition switch
I agree with you.. I also think its the ignition switch that your talkin about..
Old 03-11-05, 12:20 AM
  #37  
No it's not Turbo'd

 
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Can you get JUST the piece that is broken, and if so, what's the part number, and price if you have it....
Old 03-11-05, 05:14 AM
  #38  
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not sure,

I tried fiddling with the old mechanism my self and couldnt separate it.
--I dont think they watned you too.

Just look for a local junk yard or look on ebay, I bet you can find one pretty easily. They shouldnt be that expensive.
Old 03-11-05, 05:30 AM
  #39  
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hmmm.... and wow.... so many replies on this in just like 2 days!!~~~
Man... so.... can we ever get new assemblies for this stuff??? Or... can we like clean out the ignition switch and make better connection???? I know this is happening to more and more people.... so we should all get together and resolve this stuff....
Old 03-11-05, 05:48 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by DCrosby
Can you get JUST the piece that is broken, and if so, what's the part number, and price if you have it....
Originally Posted by spoolage
not sure,

I tried fiddling with the old mechanism my self and couldnt separate it.
--I dont think they watned you too.

Just look for a local junk yard or look on ebay, I bet you can find one pretty easily. They shouldnt be that expensive.
Do you mean the switch can't be separated from the ignition? So you'd have to replace the ignition as a whole? If so, that's retarded...(having to buy the entire assembly).

I get the clicks every now and then. One time it was the starter for me...got under it, hit it w/ a hammer 2 - 3 times, and she started right up lol. A few times after that I'd get clicks or nothing, tried the clutch pedal a few times, and she'd eventually fire up. I've been suspecting the clutch switch. Shame on me though because under the sensors menu on the PFC, I should be able to check if it's the clutch switch or not. Haven't done this, but I'd imagine the ignition switch will also show up on there as well?

EDIT: I think it's pretty SAD to see so many FDs simply having trouble simply STARTING lol... :shakes head:
Old 03-11-05, 10:49 AM
  #41  
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Well... honestly, the best way to correct this with out having to get a whole new ignition switch not to mention getting the bitch off the steering column which is a fun experience.

Is to do the s2000 button conversion or just go buy one from sears for 1.50 like I did. Why would this fix the problem you ask???? Because the ignition switch as you know has three settings, the off position, the acc position (or what ever its called that powers the car from the battery) and then the the final one that completes the circuit and makes the starter turn the engine over <-- thats the part that messes up.

So, just like an s2000, you put the key in, turn it one click then press the button u wire up (takes about 10 minutes) and wala, engine turns over.

Anyways, if you do decide to install a start button, have a little fun with it. Hide it and make it some kind of theft deterrent thing, I dunno.

The best part of doing the button, is that you dont even have to mess around with the steering column. Wiring for the button is cake in the bucket.

Last edited by spoolage; 03-11-05 at 10:52 AM.
Old 03-11-05, 12:19 PM
  #42  
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i wouldnt go to the trouble of an ignition assembly til you check the all the grounding cables.
read my plight, a couple people swore it was the iginition when all it turned out to be was bad wires.

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hlight=starter
Old 03-11-05, 07:00 PM
  #43  
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So the grounding wire was the problem and it has gone away and now your car starts all the time? You would be one of the few that has fixed it for "good". I am going to try the grounding wire next. I tried the starter which includes a new solenoid and that was not the problem.

Have other people found the problem and now it is gone? And has the problem they fixed been one of so many failures, in other words not ONE weak point but many?
Old 03-11-05, 09:59 PM
  #44  
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I have like 20 new grounds on my engine.... but not on my starter...hehehe... and the problem still exists!!!!... I will try to ground the starter but man.... I still think the problem will not change but oh well... lets see whats going to happen. ^ ^
Old 03-11-05, 11:43 PM
  #45  
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Ignition Switch. Ignition Switch. Ignition Switch.
Old 03-12-05, 10:34 PM
  #46  
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Do like others have said. Put a push button starter in, hooked up from Battery(or 12V) and starter solenoid, or just test from batter to starter solernoid. If it works every time then it is not the ground or starter, or solenoid, I could have saved myself buying a starter. I did mine and it starts, so it is not the starter, solenoid or ground, but something that is breaking the contact to the solenoid. Other safety switches. harnesses, are in there somewhere that can break the ignition circuit.
Old 03-12-05, 10:41 PM
  #47  
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I would check the ignition switch first. Some times if you have an aftermarket alarm the igniton kill switch relay can cause it to do that.
Old 03-12-05, 11:49 PM
  #48  
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Ignition Switch!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Old 03-17-05, 05:13 PM
  #49  
No it's not Turbo'd

 
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Is the Ignition Switch something you can buy, I don't want to go under the steering collumn, with a soldering Iron, and I'd rather fix the part with a stock part, if not exorbenantly expensive.
Old 03-17-05, 11:26 PM
  #50  
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just got my car back from tripoint, they replaced the ignition and remanufactured the
starter. before that it was weird how i got the car to start by depressing the brake a couple times, waiting 20 - 30 secs then simutaneously turning the ignition and stepping on the clutch to get it started. hope that helps
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