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It is going to be interesting to see what the actual compression numbers are.
Edit- Not a radiator fan but a DYNO fan. The one used to artificially cool AIT's. Not much of big deal on an N/A cars but quite needed on intercooled equipped cars.
The reason I keep asking is because I've actually seen it done. I witnessed an STI being dynoed without a fan and the owner was disapointed about low power... Well duh... I don't remeber the exact number but his AIT's were freaking high
The reason I keep asking is because I've actually seen it done. I witnessed an STI being dynoed without a fan and the owner was disapointed about low power... Well duh... I don't remeber the exact number but his AIT's were freaking high
I don't believe they use a dyno fan actually, I will have to double check, but I don't remember seeing one. They do open hood tuning for sure. But on top of this the boost seems to not be coming on from the primary turbo.
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GN
Last edited by Spirit R of the radio; 06-15-17 at 12:41 PM.
I don't believe they use a dyno fan actually, I will have to double check, but I don't remember seeing one. They do open hood tuning for sure. But on top of this the boost seems to not be coming on from the primary turbo.
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GN
It is pretty hard to miss.
N/A cars can get away with out one. Turbo charged cars on the other hand grab the ambient air and heat the snot out of it as it gets compressed. That is why we use intercoolers, to cool down the intake charge.
An intercooler is a heat exchanger that cools your AIT's. Just like a radiator it needs air to go through the fins for it to work. Basically when you are on the road, the air is supplied to the IC by the speed that you are traveling. But when you are stationary on a dyno that isn't happening so a fan is used. Without a dyno fan the intercooler becomes useless and your AIT's will be high. High AIT's = low power.
N/A cars can get away with out one. Turbo charged cars on the other hand grab the ambient air and heat the snot out of it as it gets compressed. That is why we use intercoolers, to cool down the intake charge.
An intercooler is a heat exchanger that cools your AIT's. Just like a radiator it needs air to go through the fins for it to work. Basically when you are on the road, the air is supplied to the IC by the speed that you are traveling. But when you are stationary on a dyno that isn't happening so a fan is used. Without a dyno fan the intercooler becomes useless and your AIT's will be high. High AIT's = low power.
I have verified that they do not have a dyno fan. But the vehicle doesn't feel like it is happy driving on the street either.
2nd note, I am in Seattle WA, I have checked with a few dyno shops and have been told that they don't want anything to do with rotary, but i guess i could try and just get a power pull on a dyno with a fan.
Vacuum hoses not installed properly, dyno graph showing that there isn't a turbo transition point, third gear pull, no dyno fan.. When you add all of those things they really shine a light on that shop. And not in a good way
Originally Posted by Spirit R of the radio
But the vehicle doesn't feel like it is happy driving on the street either.
2nd note, I am in Seattle WA, I have checked with a few dyno shops and have been told that they don't want anything to do with rotary, but i guess i could try and just get a power pull on a dyno with a fan.
Since the car isn't runing right on the street I would not waste money and re-run it again. I was thinking the car felt okay but you were just experiencing low numbers, hence the fan theory. For all you know it could be the tuning so see if the shop can share the map with you so you can post it up and have some of the experts here analyze it.
Honestly, I think it's time to go to a rotary specialist. Come on down to the L.A. area plenty of shops to choose from. I know it's a pain in the *** but so is wasting a bunch of cash to not have your car run right.
BTW- When you figure out what the problem is update the thread.
Vacuum hoses not installed properly, dyno graph showing that there isn't a turbo transition point, third gear pull, no dyno fan.. When you add all of those things they really shine a light on that shop. And not in a good way
Since the car isn't runing right on the street I would not waste money and re-run it again. I was thinking the car felt okay but you were just experiencing low numbers, hence the fan theory. For all you know it could be the tuning so see if the shop can share the map with you so you can post it up and have some of the experts here analyze it.
Honestly, I think it's time to go to a rotary specialist. Come on down to the L.A. area plenty of shops to choose from. I know it's a pain in the *** but so is wasting a bunch of cash to not have your car run right.
BTW- When you figure out what the problem is update the thread.
Thank you for the help and advice, once I am able to get all the data from the shop I will post.
To be fair to the shop the car does run and drive under light operation just fine, it starts and idles smoothly, if you are not trying to go fast or get on the boost it has no hick-ups. But anything other than driving it like a grandma, any aggressive, even sporty driving and you feel the lack of power as well as boost by pass when you final achieve 1 bar at high RPMs
Here is a car I just tuned, full exhaust , apexi intake, walbro pump, simplified sequential and PFC, stock everything else. 323 rwhp. 4th gear pull, note the transition at 4500.
torque and hp always cross at 5250rpm, so your car makes about 160hp & tq @ 5250rpm, this properly sorted out car makes 260hp & tq @ 5250rpm
Owner will be adding a SMIC soon to keep the IAT down.
06-15-17, 12:33 PM
