Trying to make the ultimate Non Sequential Diagram!!!!!!!!
 

Guys, I have been working on this for a while. I wanted to make this as accurate as possible. So any of your input would be greatly appreciated.
My email is grille-tech@adelphia.net
Thanks,
Ben


http://images.auctionworks.com/hi/55...ses_resize.jpg

I guess people don't do this mod anymore.
Too bad, cuz I just did it and I love it.

I'm in the process of doing it now. Good diagram, nice and clean looking. I think the PCV valve line can be capped too.

PCV=Purge control can be capped?
What goes to the charchoal canister then?
Can that all be removed?

Never mind. I see what you are talking about now. What about the line that comes off the lower nipple on the oil filler neck. It is shown here marked "A". Do you know if that gets capped?

No it doesnt, but the other to the manifold can go, so can the purge control thing.

Thank you for posying that diagram! I am in the process of buying a spare set of twins to re-build and was going to convert them to "non-sequential." This diagram will help alot.

I am actually selling a set of twin turbo's that are fully modified for non sequential operation. I have decided to go single. The turbo's would need to be rebuilt. The exhaust manifold is ported, the wastegate is ported. The turbo control door is removed and hole welded.
Let me know if you are interested.
Ben

Oh, I also have a set of stock unmodified twins.
I will let either of these go for pretty cheap.
Thanks,
Ben

How many miles do the turbos have?

Non Sequential Turbos: I purchased the turbo's from a performance shop in NC. They told me that the primary turbo had a brand new cartridge, and the 2nd turbo had 17k miles. I have only had the turbo's on my car for less than 100 miles, but they seem to be blown. They ran fine for about 2 days, and then no boost, and lots of smoke.
Would make a great set to rebuild. Plus the exhaust manifold is is ported and w/g is ported already so it will save you lots of money and time.
I am asking $250 shipped for these.

Unmodified turbo's: These were working when I switched them out with the non sequential set. They have 50k miles on them or better. They boosted good, but I would definitely recommend a rebuild for both. There was serious boost fluctuation towards the end there, and a little smoke. So I am assuming they were about to give out. But I don't know, cuz I did have a clogged cat.
I am asking $165 shipped for these.

I also have the y pipe with the charge control butterfly removed. I will sell that for $40 shipped. Or add 30 to the turbo's.

fc1jz: Thats a nice diagram, one question the yellow line that runs from the inlet of the turbo is that conected to the oil injection nozzles on the rotor housings? If so is that how they are conected from the factory?

cheers

Lance

I think someone should make one of these for a single turbo. I don't think there is one out there. I have been doing a good amount of research on the single turbo vac setup and there isn't as much info out there on it as I expected there to be.

Damn, that's one fine diagram. Thanks!

hi,
i'm trying to go non sequential, i was wondering you can help me out.
can you pleae explain how should i do for replacing all solenoids for 330 Ohm 1/2 watt resistors?
and when does your turbo come on? what rpm?

thank you

don

You place the resistor in the electrical connector that the solenoid was once plugged into. Each electrical connector has 2 slots, place one end of the resistor in one slot, and the other end in the second slot. Basically this completes the circuit, but the resistor sends the factory ecu the correct electrical signal.
With a DP, Catback, and modded intake, full boost came about 3500-3700 rpms. It started building around 2500-2800 rpms. Power delivery was much smoother, and turbo efficiency increased significantly between 3k-5k (i.e. more power at same boost levels.)

Can someone explain the red line? On all the cars I've seen, it gets capped. (well, for single turbo)... But functionally it would do the same on either application.. What exactly is that? Regulate pressure?

I heard you don't cap it because it has something to do with the oil metering pump or something. If you cap it, it will supposedly cause problems, because it needs to sense the boost pressure in order to supply the proper amount of oil.
Not 100% sure though

That I haven't heard, but I'll look into it. Thanks. :)

you can also remove the CRV, cap it off at the y-pipe and just run the line from the UIM to your main BOV.

PCV= Positive Crankcase Ventilation.

It was deleted on 95 RX-7's. You can remove it & cap both ends (UIM & oil filler neck). The lower line on the oil filler neck goes to the primary (front) turbo inlet elbow, next to the Oil inj line (yellow in diagram).

Re: Trying to make the ultimate Non Sequential Diagram!!!!!!!!
 

i have question about wastegate control actuator.
how does WAC works if nipple is caped?
don't you need pair solenoid(J&I)?

Re: Re: Trying to make the ultimate Non Sequential Diagram!!!!!!!!
 

It looks like the line going to the boost controler is attached to the intake in the diagram, but it is not. It must sense boost from somewhere. You do not need the solenoids for the actuator to work, just a vaccum line to the UIM or turbo xover or something. Just needs to sense boost so it can open.

You don't have to cap those lines going through the LIM. Those 4 metal nipples, they just pass through the LIM, they don't go into the airstream, just for hose routing convenience. I think you can even rip them out of the LIM, twist w/ pliers and then pull

Re: Re: Re: Trying to make the ultimate Non Sequential Diagram!!!!!!!!
 

does boost control box connect to any other line other than 2 dark blue line?

dude your freakin awesome!!!! i was jus going to ask everyone for a good diagram to do this! i have been wanting to do it for a little while now!

couple of questions tho:
1.do you take the "rats nest" out?
2. i heard that your suppose to use alot of blockoff plates. if so where do you get them at?
3. what do you use to cap all the nipples
4. are you suppose to have the primary WG capped off? and why?
thanks

and also i dont have a "gas filter" thats goes between the vacuum line going to the pressure sensor... is this bad?

1.Yes rat nest is GONE
2.Block of plates any major RX7 provider, rx7 store etc
3. Regular Caps at the Auto Store or go the extra mile and you could JB Weld them.
4. Not sure =P

what do the block off plates generally cost? actually what does the whole project come out to costing?

Price can vary from 70$ (block off plates cost) to 500$. Depends what type of boost controller you use if you go electronic or Home Depot Style. Silicones hoses will set you back anywhere from 20 to 40$. Depends what route and how much cash you got.

Any other opinions on the red line? Just curious if it might be something to re-connect as I't was capped along with damn near everything else.. :)

Would this mod lower your chances of passing emmissions?

This mod basically removes ALL emmisions. Removes Airpump, EGR and all that other sh*t.

JD,

The air bleed socket for the primaries, you mean?

I've never been able to get a stable answer on this - but last thing I remember Chuck mentioned it having to do with better atomization of fuel - however it was also mentioned that most people didn't notice a difference.

looks almost perfect with my setup right now. Just curious. If I plugged the FPR into the UIM rather than the LIM is that gonna be a problem?

BTW nice diagram....you coulda put it out 2 months ago :bash:

Thanks man. I haven't noticed a difference, but figured I'd ask.. :D

Why anyone with a working sequential system would want to do this is beyond me :confused:

Its like saying hell yeah i want to get rid of half my powerband!



"Hi my names mike and ive been a non sequential user for 9 months" :(

nice diagram

Really? I thought it was more like saying "I'd like some more midrange power and I'll do without the transition dip, thanks."

Have you even looked at dyno charts for properly converted non-sequential cars?

http://www.micromanx.com/goble/rx7/p...3/compare.html

I dont see how that is a relevant compairison seeing as how they were done on different days, with different dynos with different cars and "similar" setups. Next time im by my work ill dig up my old seq vs non seq graph that was done on the same day, on the same dyno, with the same car and mods... ill post it and you can make your own decisions.

(noting that this wouldent be definitive because my second turbo wasent kicking more than about 7 psi anyways but until 4500 the difference in power is scary)

Uhh, you gain in the mid-range, which is a much more usable zone than the low-end.

In case you forgot, it takes ENERGY to spool the 2nd turbo. You do it in serial, we do it in parallel.

i m not really sure about the line from FPR ? has it a line over there already ?? or i have to relocate the line from some where to FPR??? And how will it blown the motor ??
thax guys ...... >.<

Im not sure about a blown motor but I heard it makes it quite difficult to start when hot.

w00t i found my graph! so where exactly are you gaining power... that 500 rpm transition?

if you want to trade that for that 3500 rpms of boost be my guest.

https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...postid=2788781

What did you do, wire the control gates open and assume that was equivalent to non-sequential?

If it was done on the same day, then it was either the longest day in history, or you weren't comparing a properly converted non-sequential system.

Even more reason why your results aren't worth anything.

The turbos spool considerably faster in non-sequential configuration after you remove the control gates, port the exhaust manifold, and get rid of your catalytic converters...

they are worth more than the 3 random dyno graphs posted on the link above.

I run non sequential and I hate it, (compaired to stock sequential) end of story... anyone who thinks that they will be happier with it, enjoy.

We not only think, we are happier with it. :)

And here is the graph of non sequential with full catless exhaust and with stock cat... still not worth the loss IMO

https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...postid=2429599