Originally posted by TTBullet Any good results? |
Holesaw :hah:
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Originally posted by clayne Holesaw :hah: |
today i went to visit welding place and they asking $65 for filling in holes in manifolder and PCA. i think i got rob. they say it's going to be done by this coming friday. what do you guys think? if it's too much i want to check other places.
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For 65$ you could have bought the plates and done it yourself.
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can soneone explain to me what they used to port there waste gate hole, and how you make it right. im scared to death that i am going to end up messing it up somehow. (porting it too much, not gettin a perfect circle)
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Originally posted by Fatman0203 For 65$ you could have bought the plates and done it yourself. plates? i'm talking about exhust manifolder. |
Originally posted by FD3RotorTurbo can soneone explain to me what they used to port there waste gate hole, and how you make it right. im scared to death that i am going to end up messing it up somehow. (porting it too much, not gettin a perfect circle) |
Originally posted by FD3RotorTurbo can soneone explain to me what they used to port there waste gate hole, and how you make it right. im scared to death that i am going to end up messing it up somehow. (porting it too much, not gettin a perfect circle) Thats all, its not hard. |
Dude I do not really understand this, with ONLY DOWN PIPE AND GUTTED CAT I was not getting ANY boost creep at all , with a BLEED! type boost controller. I mean are their other variables that cause boost spike? Cold Weather maybe?
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i'm almost done
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Originally posted by clayne Holesaw :hah: For real though, I opted to go the machine shop route. 50 bucks well spent, and a perfect port. |
Originally posted by TTBullet i'm talking about exhust manifolder. "fold the perfect exhust everytime...thanks Exhust Manifolder" Yeah, I know I am a bastard.:D |
I had to use a sawzall to get the dam egr off my car. The two other bolts I could not get to unless the motor was out. So I said f*ck it , attacked that shit like a mad man! LoL My dad looked at me like I was crazy and thought I killed the motor LoL.
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Originally posted by fc1jz "fold the perfect exhust everytime...thanks Exhust Manifolder" Yeah, I know I am a bastard.:D |
Originally posted by TTBullet do you have power fc? if so, do you have map for non sequential? Search around on the pfc forum and you will find some maps for what you need. |
non seq
anyone had success going non seq?
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I'm starting this project tomorrow...we'll see how long it takes...:(
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i just add greddy profec b-spec2, i didn't test drove yet, it rained.
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Does it matter what color and which way around the resistores are placed into where the solenoids were?
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Does it matter what color and which way around the resistores are placed into where the solenoids were?
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We'll it took about 4-5 hours to take out everything, hoses/solenoids, and mounting the block off plates. Sunday is the day for the turbo flapper door mods and havent picked a day yet for the replacement of everything. Some of you guys make it sound harder than it really is ;) ...
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OK, I have just finished doing this Mod , right down to the diagram adzactly and it looks great, But now when I drive my car I get a loss of power and huge hesitation at 2500 - 3000 rpm, it doesnt feel like a vacume problem more like a fuel problem.
Also- with the 330ohm 1/2 watt resistors you replace the solenoids with do they have to be a certain way around to complete the circuit?? like a positive and negative end? if these were the wrong way around would it cause this type of symptoms?? |
Originally posted by spekdah OK, I have just finished doing this Mod , right down to the diagram adzactly and it looks great, But now when I drive my car I get a loss of power and huge hesitation at 2500 - 3000 rpm, it doesnt feel like a vacume problem more like a fuel problem. Also- with the 330ohm 1/2 watt resistors you replace the solenoids with do they have to be a certain way around to complete the circuit?? like a positive and negative end? if these were the wrong way around would it cause this type of symptoms?? If this is loose, than your car will not rev past 2500-3000. If that is fine, check to make sure your Throttle position sensor is plugged in. |
Originally posted by spekdah OK, I have just finished doing this Mod , right down to the diagram adzactly and it looks great, But now when I drive my car I get a loss of power and huge hesitation at 2500 - 3000 rpm, it doesnt feel like a vacume problem more like a fuel problem. Also- with the 330ohm 1/2 watt resistors you replace the solenoids with do they have to be a certain way around to complete the circuit?? like a positive and negative end? if these were the wrong way around would it cause this type of symptoms?? Disconnect the battery and pump the brake for a few seconds. Then try it again. |
He be limpin yo....Sorry, that sounded cooler in my head.
Anyway, yeah, sounds like limp mode. Usually because your car was started when MAP sensor was disconnected. So definitly check your MAP vac connection, and unplug your negative, drain current (pump brakes as aforementioned), hook that wire back up, plant a potato under a leafy tree on a moonlight walkway, chant britney spears songs and BAM your snakin bacon baby. |
just finished mine... lovin it... and the engine bay just looks so much cleaner... makes it even better... but ya no power till 3500...but then :)
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and whos ever under 3500 anyway?!
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Originally Posted by TurboLumpy
and whos ever under 3500 anyway?!
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NICE!!! Great work, i did the non seq set up and the diagrams help a lot.
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bump
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what if your not running a boost controller?
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Originally Posted by willjs7
(Post 4667097)
what if your not running a boost controller?
Anyone? |
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