Next time you're changing your oil, drain the oil out, leave the filter on, fill it up, run it for a minute, and then drain it again. I work at a dealership where I get "free" oil, and when I change it, I flush it like this two times before actually putting the new filter and heavier oil in. Since there is so much old oil in the cooler(s) and lines, the first time you flush it, it will still be jet black. I really wish there was an easier and less wasteful way to do it, though. Just a suggestion.
On another note, I put some Mobil 1 gear lube in my transmission, and it is noticeably smoother.
--Danny

 

Interesting. After I change the oil & filter, the oil is usually light gold or clear in color. I guess flushing the oil is a good idea once in a while too.

 

flushing is definately worth it. just dont do it too much. it would be like girls dousching too much. hahahaha.

 

Have you tried using a better filter? I wouldn't know for sure, though, seeing as how I CAN'T EVEN GET MY ******* HANDS ON ONE! I SWEAR IT'S LIKE THE MANUFACTURERS DON'T WANT ME TO HAVE THEM! I'll probably need to resort to asking a forum member to mail me some. I'm probably asking too much when I ask for a Bosch Performance Oil Filter or a Fram X2. OH ******* WELL!

 

Jonski, if you can't find the premium filters, just use Mazda OEM. I think they are very good.

 

Ok if I were to switch to the Amsoil what weight should I use? I was on there website and a case of 20W-50 is around $94. Would this be a good weight for a little bit of Cali heat and the upcoming winter (a case will last a little while, 12 qts)
Thanks
Catlin M

 

Amsoil is great check into being a dealer so you can get it at a discount .Use the same weight that you liked before , Think about running Amsoil 2 cycle oil to your oil metering pump with an adapter,Garfinkle has this set up.

 

Since we are talking about flushing, I was just going to add DONT USE ENGINE FLUSH, its highly recommended here not to because in the rotary there are too many places for it to hide and it can really FRUCK up your engine...

Just for info
Jason
www.jt-imports.com

 

That's a given, Jason. That flush is nothing more than kerosene, anyway. I just use fresh oil.
My question is would it be ok to flush with mineral oil, but fill up with synthetic oil?

 

just change oil more frequently... i change mine every 1500 and it comes out pretty clean... after i drain i just run a quart through the system to clean out any shiet and it works just fine.

 

just quart?
is that safe?

 

No I think he pours an extra quart in after drianed, but not plugged. So the fresh oil pushes out the rest and is drained. Then oil bolt goes in and he refills.

 

I was told several times to never mix the 2.

So I wouldnt recommend it....

 

thanks

 

Why don't you just drain the oil cooler at each oil change? That's what I do. It drains about an extra quart. Oil stays much cleaner

 

Is there a drain on the cooler? I have never looked.

 

Aha. That would be much simpler. How do you go about draining the oil cooler(s)?

 

The coolers have a clip that holds the end of the line into the receptacle. Just pull it out w/ a set of needle nose pliers and then jiggle the hoses off. You can even go get some brake parts cleaner spray and clean out the coolers every couple of months too to help prevent sludge from building up around the thermostat and clogging the coolers up. Just remember when you refill the oil you'll be about an extra quart low. And for the Amsoil, I road race about 6-8 times per year and have always used 20w/50. IF the car ever sees operating (in other words, always)temps this will ensure that the oil doesn't get too thin, especially on the eshaft bearings and the main bearing. This has also been known to solve some minor engine oil leaking behavior with thinner wt. oils ie 10W/30 or 10W/40. Another good prelube trick, if you don't use the car as a daily driver, is to pull the egi fuse before you start the car, especially if sitting for a few days, and crank for about 15 or 20 seconds. This will prime the oil pump and prelube the main bearing surfaces prior to engine firing. Only a couple extra minutes can save your bearings in the long run. Just my dime.
Art

 

I drain my cooler a little differently than rts3gen. There is also a large bolt at the bottom side of the cooler. aluminum color. When you remove it a spring and another piece come with it. I think it may be a flow regulator. Anyways, it takes only a few seconds to remove it. On my car I cut a small section of the plastic below my cooler so oil could run directly ino a pan. I'm not sure what size the head is. I use a large adjustable wrench to remove it. After doing this a couple times I noticed a big difference in the time it took for my oil to turn into black goop.

 

That's very helpful.

I wondered if that shiny aluminum nut like thing can be removed from the oil coolers. I will try that next time.

Ed