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Can anyone confirm that my transmission is in fact straight? When looking from below(see picture) the end of the transmission seems to be more over to one side. Can anyone take pictures of their's to compare to?
I'm wondering if I need to loosen up the motor mount nuts on the sub frame and center it.
Also I don't recall if the Driveshaft is supposed to be further in. What you see there is already mounted to the differential.
Last edited by coolrotariesR1; 12-31-22 at 04:35 PM.
Go in the cabin and look down thru the transmission tunnel shifter hole. It’s much easier to see if it’s in the correct position. The cast shifter mount should be centered up. I’ve had to loosen up the engine mounts and ppf at the transmissions to get it in the correct alignment.
generally Mazda puts the engine in the car pointing a little to the left, it give more room for the RHD steering column and turbos.
but the shifter should be centered in the hole and the boot should go on and line up
Thanks guys. Yes when viewing from above in the interior the transmission looks shifted to one side. Going to loosen the motor mounts and straighten it out a bit.
Also the trans will be all goofy until you bolt on the PPF. I would not expect good alignment until you install it.
Right now you are dealing with the whole drivetrain sitting on 2 points (The motor mounts) - it's basically a 2-legged stool. Once the PPF is on you have 2 more points (The diff mounts) and now the stool has 4 legs
Make sure you torque down the ppf at the diff first. There’s not any adjustment there due to the side locating bolt. After that, you can loosen up the ppf at the trans and both engine mounts. I use a pry bar ( sometimes a wood board fits perfect) to hold it in place while torquing down at the front attachment of the trans. If you don’t hold it in place, it will have a tendency to move around.
Make sure you torque down the ppf at the diff first. There’s not any adjustment there due to the side locating bolt. After that, you can loosen up the ppf at the trans and both engine mounts. I use a pry bar ( sometimes a wood board fits perfect) to hold it in place while torquing down at the front attachment of the trans. If you don’t hold it in place, it will have a tendency to move around.
A bit late to the thread but last I checked that rear transmission seal is less than $25 bucks and takes maybe a minute to R & R. Moving the snout of the drive shaft in and out of that seal can be hard on it, especially if the snout was left dry. Would suck to have to do this all over again if it leaked. Just sayin’
A bit late to the thread but last I checked that rear transmission seal is less than $25 bucks and takes maybe a minute to R & R. Moving the snout of the drive shaft in and out of that seal can be hard on it, especially if the snout was left dry. Would suck to have to do this all over again if it leaked. Just sayin’
I seem to remember my trans/engine all floppy side to side and up and down without the PPF. The motor mounts may be preloaded one direction or something that is causing it to be over to the side but again don't sweat it until the PPF is in.
Remember the whole thing right now is sitting on just 2 points. If there's something else connected to it that could be pulling it one way or the other that could be a factor.
May be worth loosening the motor mount to subframe nuts to let them twist and settle a bit when you install the PPF.
Remember the whole thing right now is sitting on just 2 points.
Dale
like you say, 2 leg stool... if you look at every power train in any car, they are 3 points, because that is the one that works best. occasionally there is a 4th, but its usually a bonus one
like you say, 2 leg stool... if you look at every power train in any car, they are 3 points, because that is the one that works best. occasionally there is a 4th, but its usually a bonus one
IMHO you can re-use the nuts. For a little insurance put some blue Loctite on them.
The reasoning that they are locking nuts and the locking feature is less effective after install/removal is sound. But they do hold up.
If one somehow manages to come loose it's got a VERY long stud to work its way down and you will hear substantial noise from the drivetrain slopping around. Considering I have NEVER EVER heard a case of this happening there ya go.
Up to you but here are the facts, make your decision
Originally Posted by Nakd n Fearless;[url=tel:12545435
12545435[/url]]Because distorted thread nuts are single use and Mazda clearly states NEW NUT in the FSM…
There is likely no issue with re-using lock nuts and installing them good & tight without measuring on an average street car.
Yeah, I’ve never replaced mine either. Good point that they’re distorted thread, but I’ve always drilled them on with a good impact. Never had one come loose and have always needed an impact to get them off again.
Figured it was a case of responsible corporate engineering and a convenient revenue stream
Can someone confirm if the Driveshaft is OK like this? I don't see how I can insert in further into the back of the transmission any further. I don't recall how much it was in.
The pinion angle will be off until you cinch up the PPF. It’s drooping. Once the PPF is reinstalled it raises the pinion which will raise the aft end of the driveshaft…and you shouldn’t see as much shiny bits anymore.
12-31-22, 04:10 PM
