Howard Coleman

iTrader: (6)

yes, this is yet another post re separating the transmission from the engine.

i have successfully built my own engines, my own twin TO4 turbosystems etc etc but i must admit i generally bat around 50% when attempting to separate the clutch from the flywheel so as to remove the XXX trans.... i have garfed up throw-out bearings from various screwdrivers, hammers and i now have a collection of weird wide tools bought so as to increase my leverage to separate the collar from the throwout bearing. many wasted hours and broken parts.

oh how i hated to give up and unscrew the pressure plate from the flywheel. embarassing and tedious.

so today i had to do the "job." i reviewed old threads which all just seemed to say put the screwdriver in such and such a spot and twist it and it will magically pop free. i have a wedge ring or what's left of it that says otherwise. i even managed to brutalize a throwout bearing.

i finally downloaded Wargasm's video prior to getting at it and BINGO... it all became clear. thanks Wargasm. i am sure your video has helped lots of people get it done.

i thought it would be helpful to pass on the video content in post-form and add some additional key items.

remove clutch slave cylinder. remove all the inspection plates. remove all bellhousing bolts. move trans rearward one inch as per Exedy service bulletin. shine a light into the collar area. mover the throwout arm (clutch fork arm) outer end rearward. up to this point most of the previous posts have it covered...

NOW for the KEY. look at the brass collar protruding from the center of the clutch diaphragm. it will probably be a quarter inch or so from being flush to the diaphragm (clutch spring fingers). with a screwdriver gently position it so it is FLUSH on the diaphragm. NOW put your screwdriver blade on the brass collar and the throwout bearing and twist. POP.

the primary reason i decided to do this post:

if the throwout bearing doesn't pop out of the collar EASILY. repeat EASILY then the collar has moved from it's flush against the diaphragm position. force will do no good. if the collar is flush (as far as it can go forward) then the locking ring will easily slide out. so you don't need, as i thought so often, a bigger hammer.

i hope this helps and again thanks to Wargasm. it is all in the collar position and not in force.

here's hoping you hear a "pop."

case closed.

howard coleman

mdpalmer

iTrader: (24)

Subscribed. Thanks for the tip Happen to have a link to Wargsam's vid handy?

cewrx7r1

iTrader: (2)

What is the problem? I did my first disengagement in less than 30 minutes just by reading the manual. Now it is easy by using two tools at once.

The trans does not need to be pulled back to do it. In fact I do it right after pulling
the clutch slave.

Don't make things more difficult then needed. It just takes a little coordination!

Howard Coleman

iTrader: (6)

the "problem" is that there are still numerous people who do have/have had problems w clutch separation as evidenced a continuing series of "how the xxxx do i..." as well as lots of aftermarket collar and throwout bearing sales and many of the posts re how to do it tell you to stick a screwdriver in there and twist.

if the collar isn't flush w the fingers separation ain't gonna happen.

as to moving the trans back you are right, it is optional, but gives more room to work by virtue of a better angle on the clutch fork arm.

someone was asking whether the wedge collar assembly should be replaced... mazda always says replace everything anytime you touch it. if you are able to remove the wedge collar easily it should be able, after an inspection, to be reinstalled IMO.

video: http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...58290919&hl=en

howard coleman

wanklin

iTrader: (2)

Good thread. Though a lot of leverage certainly is not necessary it does help to use a nice wide-blad screwdriver or seal scraper which, upon twisting, will effectively apply inward pressure to the ring and outward pressure to release the throwout bearing. I agree that the key to the process is applying inward pressure to the ring before twisting.

rfreeman27

iTrader: (5)

the key is removing hte slave cyl. Ive found that if you dont, they usually will not seperate without tearing the clip to hell.

DamonB

The trick as Howard said is knowing exactly where to place the screwdriver (which the FSM shows). The wedge collar needs to be pushed flush against the pressure plate and the screwdriver then inserted between the collar and release bearing; twisting while holding the collar against the pressure plate. It should instantly pop free and will take no more than 30 seconds and not much force. The first time I pulled the tranny I wasn't sure what to expect since I'd heard all the horror stories but by following the FSM closely and studying the diagram it popped free right away on the first try.

My favorite tool for this is an old tire iron with a chisel tip for removing hubcaps. It's longer and a little thicker than a screwdriver and just seems to be the perfect tool for this job.

The wire ring and wedge collar don't get damaged unless you mangle them during release or if you're not careful when stabbing the transmission back in.

DamonB

When you pop the release bearing free the fork is going to move away from the slave cylinder. The slave being there or not won't make any difference.

jd to rescue

iTrader: (3)

The real grasp of the clutch removal/install comes from an understanding of how the throw out bearing and the wire ring clip together. Once you understand that, then how to pop it free and how to reinstall it are very straight forward. It is not really the tool chosen; it is the knowing of the relationship of the parts that gets you there.

Wargasm

Heh, I'm on Google video now! Good idea!

Here's a link to my website (yes, no domain right now) with the vid if you like that....

http://71.102.125.165/rx7/pullclutch.htm

badddrx7

iTrader: (7)

I agree with Chuck...folks are making this way too complicated. My separation went without incident. Why, well this gentleman below sums it all up....Good writeup my man...

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

You will have have to push the assembly forward to relieve the pressure on the wire ring from the throw-out bearing before separating. While I'm sure you can probably do it with the slave attached, its much easier without any hydraulic resistance.

chinaman

This is shocking to me 'cause this is what I've been doing when pulling the trans and thought everyone knew about it......I guess not.

wanklin

iTrader: (2)

OK, we'll hand you an avocado and a McDonald's straw and see how you do tough guy ;o)

prerequisites to doing anything right:
#1 Use the right tool for the job
#2 Know what you are doing.

I sense that you are a transmission savant, but I think this thread may help others, without your innate knowledge of transmissions, to fulfill the second prerequisite above.

badddrx7

iTrader: (7)

My suggestion to you and others is - if you don't know how to work on these automobiles, then take them to an experienced Mechanic that does. That simple. I know what I am doing, have a long history of mechanical skills, the shop, manual and the tools to do it right.

Not only could you screw your car up, you could come out of the job less a digit or two, or maybe your life.

Tom

DamonB

There is no hydraulic resistance. With the slave at rest the wedge collar is outside the pressure plate; that's how it retains the release bearing. You merely slip the wedge collar into the pressure plate which requires only a slight amount of force. Then you pry between the wedge collar and release bearing to pop them free. The slave never knows anything is even happening.

If I ever wanted to prank FD owners I would drive around with a 10 mm socket and a screwdriver and at the next get together I could drop the inspection covers and pop a dozen cars release bearings in a matter of minutes, stranding them all

jd to rescue

iTrader: (3)

By all means, I was not trying to discourage anyone from reading this thread to learn how to release the throw-out bearing. And I was certainly not trying to sound condescending to the others who contributed. I simply was giving my input on what I think is important. And that is to understand how the wire ring and the wedge collar work together to form a clip that locks over the nose of the throw-out bearing. Wargasm has a good video demonstrating this. Get that and you will be a clutch guru to all of your adoring fans.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

I've had issues on several FD's resulting in needing to move the entire assembly forward (thus needing to unbolt the slave). So, for me its just a natural (easy) thing to do just to insure I don't run into any other issues.

Monkman33

iTrader: (28)

Well, I watched that vid, and having never separated a transmission from an engine before, it made it short work. the engine and transmission are out of the car, so I bet that helped. My buddy and I just turned the transmission untill I had a good spot on the clooar. manually pulled the clutch fork so it pushed it in flush for me. then put a screwdriver blade on it and held it there. let go of clutch fork and pop! job done, pull and you now have 2 pieces.

1sicsol

Without the video, I would have not been successful changing the cluth in my driveway.

AnthonyNYC

iTrader: (3)

I don't think taking the 6 bolts off the flywheel is embarassing or tedious. I actually find it much easier. It takes next to no time and no need to mess with the snap ring.

Judging by the responses and the need for a video, isn't it much easier to remove the six bolts or am I missing something here?

Anthony

wanklin

iTrader: (2)

Tom,
Your last bit of advice is sound, but you seem to have missed my point (no insult intended). I think we will both agree that in order to do a job properly, one should have BOTH a thorough understanding of the task at hand AND the proper tools for the job. I believe Howard's intention in creating this thread was to elucidate the relationship between the wire ring and throwout bearing and to recommend specific tools and techniques for the job. I'm glad that you are able to pull your transmissions without incident and I don't think anyone questions your competence. The last 2 or 3 that I have pulled have gone smoothly as well, though I hardly think that bit of information is going to help anyone prepare for this task. Again, Im not trying to put you down. I'm just clarifying my previous comment.


Robert

wanklin

iTrader: (2)

Right on

Monkman33

iTrader: (28)

Take someone in my situation: engine locked. Wont turn. unbolt the bellhousing from the engine. look through plate to see the collar, press collar in, and POP! done.

You tell me how tedious it would have been to rotate the transmission (while supporting it properly) so I could get to each of the flywheel bolts?

And how is undoing 6 bolts less tedious than literally 30 seconds of push, pop snap, done? watch the video and you will see just how easy it really is. It is almost too easy. you'll think you did something wrong. it's THAT easy.

The video will help you orient yourself if you have never seen the parts first hand. Trust me, I just pulled my engine and transmission apart last night..... and I had never seen inside a pull style clutch before. i have taken a Jeep tranny out, but that was unbolt the bellhousing and pull. this is different.

comparison:
rotate entire assembly to get at 6 bolts.
or
one simple little push, pop, pull?

Please dont take offense to this post, just go out and try it. you'll see.

Monkman33

iTrader: (28)

Remind me to never go to a meet with you.