HobbeZ

I am currently installing a reman and a rebuilt transmission. I was wondering should I replace the front and rear oil seals on the transmission? they are relatively cheap however the manual says you'll need a SST to reinstall the seals. Can anyone provide info about how to remove / install these seals? I want to do it for piece of mind, but dont want to buy a mazda SSt just for this one time use.

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

The rear seal would be a good idea. If it's anything like the rear oil seal on a TurboII tranny, it's a piece of cake. Pry out old seal, lube new seal with gear oil, tap in with a mallet.

Dale

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

No SST needed.

SSTs only serve to make the process idiot-proof. I just tapped around it with a mallet. Note that the rear seal has an 'up' mark you should observe.

Dave

alberto_mg

you might want to replace the clutch fork while you are at it. that part develops hair line cracks and eventually breaks.

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

in that case,

upgrade the select spindle ($60), replace the pilot bearing ($10), pilot bearing seal ($5), and throwout bearing ($75). And the shifter bushings and insulator boots ($100), and 5th synchro ($25)

(as you see, this could go on...)

FWIW, the t/o fork ($80) isn't a big risk unless there is a crack in it already or you're running a heavier pressure plate.

Dave

HobbeZ

how do you remove the oil seal inside the bell housing? can taht just be pry'd out?

DamonB

Plenty of us with stock clutches have had forks break.

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

Hmm, then maybe I should get one myself.

How can I tell if it's an upgraded fork? (I already found I have the upgraded select spindle)

Dave

djseven

iTrader: (56)

Definately do it while everything is out. I just had a motor installed only to find the rear tranny seal was leaking. I could have fixed it in 5 mins with it out of the car but since everything was in the car I had to drop the PPF, Driveshaft, and midpipe to get to it. It is too simple not to do.

David Jerome