So.... I broke my clutch fork tonight, confirmed via the inspection plate in the parking lot of a laundromat, which was the nearest lot I could pull the car into. I've done a couple of tranny R&R's in the last few months, and was wondering if there was any way to do it without the removal of the UIM or the whole engine itself.

I've removed and reinstalled the tranny before in a day, but in the end I was beat, and now I'm just trying to see if there's an easier way to do it.

Also, what would you guys recommend replacing along w/ the clutch fork? new throwout bearing perhaps? any suggestions welcome.

thanks.

 

You can remove the transmission without pulling the motor but in my opinion it's a lot harder aligning it on the install. You will need to check/replace the pilot bearing/seal, check the clutch, pressure plate, etc. etc. Always check throughly when the trans is removed. Things like rear main, trans front seal, rear seal, etc are always easy to replace while it's out.


Later

 

You can definitely leave the UIM in place.

Get a 24" or 36" 3/8" extension and a universal jointed socket. Then you can reach all of the bellhousing bolts from under the car. If the universal gets annoying you can wrap it with masking tape and use a bit of masking tape on the head of the bolt to keep it from dropping out of the socket.

I agree with Tom it's not easy to align, so I strongly recommend renting a transmission jack. I finally found a hardware store in my area that was $35 for the day, but in reality it was priceless.

 

FWIW, I wedge a block of wood or a large piece of hard rubber I have in the shop under the front of the engine. This keeps the back of the motor down when the wieght of the transmission is gone. Makes it alot easier IMO to re-install. I also index the drive-shaft to the pinion.

 

like Sgtblue says, make sure the front of the engine is supported or lifted in some way. (i use and engine hoist). I have never been able to fit a tranny back when the front of the engine wasn't raised, it is impossible to align things together.

I have removed dozens of transmission and never had to remove the engine or the UIM. Just a long extension and a swivel socket like dgeesaman said. It really shouldn't be a hard job.

 

skip the universal joint and get a swivel socket (has the joint built into the socket). they have them at autozone.

 

Thanks for the replies guys. I've taken off the UIM every time because I didn't have a long extension, but now that I know, I'll try it. Another question: Is it hard to break the torque in the bolts at the top from below the tranny? I don't remember there being any room down there but I'll take your word for it.

Seals are new from my swap a couple of months ago so I don't think I have to worry about that.

I just wish I had a lightweight flywheel to put in because I was thinking the next time I pull the tranny out would be for a flywheel.

 

I use a regular craftsman wrench and reach my hand up from the bottom when the exhaust and starter are out of the way!

On a single set up with no rats nest! but from what I remember you should still be able to get it even with everything still there for the twins

 

yeah, with the downpipe off the twins are not in the way. The starter side seems like a hassle though. You didn't use any really really long extensions or anything??

 

i been able to get the top bolt on the tranny with a ratchet wrench but either was its gonna be a PITA. good luck

 

might as well replace the pilot bearing while youre in there

 

nope, just a wrench up top and regular socket and ratchet on everything else

 

You must have a long wrench or some small hands. I let the OP barrow a tool i made for this very bolt. I hope all went well for him this weekend.

 

If your talking about the higher-up bolts on the bellhousing that "special" tool you made is all well and good...but I do exactly what Dave described. You do NOT have remove the UIM, nor downpipe. You don't need small hands or long arms or even a sacrificial 14mm wrench. Really not a big deal to install the same way either, especially if you brace the front of the motor so it doesn't tilt forward when the transmission is pulled. I start the BH bolts by hand, and then use the shallow socket on a long extension w/a 'U' joint.

Just helped a friend R & R a transmission for a clutch install. Together we did it in about 3 hours...including new pilot bearing, rear stationary main seal and re-torquing tension bolts. OK....4 hours with the beer, pizza and cigar break.

 

Yeah i didn't have a long enough extention but i did have an extra 14mm wrench and a welder

 

thanks again for the stuff, Tyler.