hi,
i want to change the bushings to polyurethanes. how do i remove the bushinbg for the trailing arm?
i must press it from a specific side only or both directions? there is an arow on on side that i do not know what it means.

is there any damage if i burn the rubber with a torch ?
any how to 's?
i searche the forum but nothing found
thanks

 

Start here: https://www.rx7club.com/suspension-wheels-tires-brakes-20/how-remove-replace-suspension-bushings-211372/

Do not use a torch on rx-7 bushings.

Many of them are oil filled, and you will get a nasty surprise if you set them on fire.
The trailing arm bushings are not oil filled however.

The heat required to burn out bushings is probably not too good for aluminum suspension parts.

All can be removed with a press and a few tools.

 

If you have to start a thread for the T/A bushings, you're in for a REAL treat with the toe link bushings

 

These make you wish you bought aftermarket toe links after you get tired of chasing the bushing across the room for up to an hour

 

Yup, I did them for my dad's FD as a Father's Day present that turned into a nightmare..... I shouldve just bought him some damn aftermarket toe links. Never ever again

 

Tell me about it. I've had plenty of practice with them since I do bushing work on FDs. I think those are the most time consuming bushings out of the whole car. I havent done any delrin bushings yet. Maybe those are easier to install on the toe links?

 

I'd rather port two engines than do two toe links.

I had to end up fabbing a pair of plastic sheaths of the proper diameter to help the bushing ride into the bore true. Even then it was not fun......

 

thanks guys,
i am thinking to go for aftermarket ones but i read in many threads that they do not last long since they do not have the rubber seals mazdas have.what if one get corroded? can i change the end only or i throu away the whole arm?
thanks again and i am apreciating yours opinions upon this.

 

The Rotary Extreme pieces have rubber seals around the heim joints.

 

the fighters-garage links also have seals

 

Hey guys bringing this back from the dead. Currently have heim-joint type toe links and trailing arms but thinking of going back to the stock pieces and using the Mazda Motorsports 40% stiffer than stock bushings. Can one of you guys with experience replacing the original bushings give me some insight into why it's particularly bad? I've replaced dozens of bushings of varying degrees of difficulty before but I don't have access to a press; always done them with a ball joint tool, c-clamp, sockets and threaded rod, etc.

Thanks!