Traffic Jams not good for intake air temps
wtf does this have to do with the intake temp sensor? wouldn't you want it to read where the temps are the highest? seems like relocating it would only make you blind to what your car is really doing
No, the temps really aren't that high, its just the surrounding metal heating up the sensor. When the sensor reads higher, it pulls fuel since it *thinks* the air is less dense -when in reality the air is much cooler and denser = more lean. When you relocate, the sensor gives a *more* accurate reading for the air temp, thus your ECU can meter fuel based on truer numbers.
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...&highlight=IAT
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...&highlight=IAT
Last edited by Marshall; Jul 17, 2003 at 06:58 PM.
i posted a thread a while ago showing how i cut out the pass side wheel well and covered the hole with metal mesh and screen. i just finished relocating fuses on the driver side and am going to cut out that fender liner and mount a 5in spal fan (294cfm) to push air out. i've heard of at least one guy who had good luck with a similar setup. hopefully it'll help a bit.
alwan16 does not understand the full ramifications of the stock air temp sensor location, heat soak, how fuel is affected by this, and lack of heat transfer by IC piping and UIM during boost.
Even the Japanese COSMO turbo engine has the ATS in the plastic elbo!
Search the single turbo and PF forums for more knowlegeable info. Two best places are on the intake elbo and IC outlet if a FMIC. BEST places for truer air temps to the ecu, and less chance of blowing the engine.
Even the Japanese COSMO turbo engine has the ATS in the plastic elbo!
Search the single turbo and PF forums for more knowlegeable info. Two best places are on the intake elbo and IC outlet if a FMIC. BEST places for truer air temps to the ecu, and less chance of blowing the engine.
Originally posted by cewrx7r1
alwan16 does not understand the full ramifications of the stock air temp sensor location, heat soak, how fuel is affected by this, and lack of heat transfer by IC piping and UIM during boost.
Even the Japanese COSMO turbo engine has the ATS in the plastic elbo!
Search the single turbo and PF forums for more knowlegeable info. Two best places are on the intake elbo and IC outlet if a FMIC. BEST places for truer air temps to the ecu, and less chance of blowing the engine.
alwan16 does not understand the full ramifications of the stock air temp sensor location, heat soak, how fuel is affected by this, and lack of heat transfer by IC piping and UIM during boost.
Even the Japanese COSMO turbo engine has the ATS in the plastic elbo!
Search the single turbo and PF forums for more knowlegeable info. Two best places are on the intake elbo and IC outlet if a FMIC. BEST places for truer air temps to the ecu, and less chance of blowing the engine.
heatsoak...true air temps...etc.
but that doesn't mean i have to agree with it in the context the stock twin turbo system
if you want to relocate your IAT to the piping or anywhere else that's up to you. i still think the most reliable location (in all operating ranges) for his mildly modified twin turbo car that is daily driven is the stock location.
Originally posted by alwan16
i understand the reasons for changing the location....
heatsoak...true air temps...etc.
but that doesn't mean i have to agree with it in the context the stock twin turbo system
if you want to relocate your IAT to the piping or anywhere else that's up to you. i still think the most reliable location (in all operating ranges) for his mildly modified twin turbo car that is daily driven is the stock location.
i understand the reasons for changing the location....
heatsoak...true air temps...etc.
but that doesn't mean i have to agree with it in the context the stock twin turbo system
if you want to relocate your IAT to the piping or anywhere else that's up to you. i still think the most reliable location (in all operating ranges) for his mildly modified twin turbo car that is daily driven is the stock location.
I'm no expert, but it seems to me that if the air is going to the the engine through a heat soaked UIM, the heat from the manifold will get tranfered to the air as it passes through. So maybe the stock location is the best for the IAT b/c the air may actually get that hot by the time it enters the engine. If you relocate the IAT to the intake elbow, the air temps will rise as the air flows through a heat soaked UIM and your ecu will think that the air is cooler than it really is. I think this could be dangerous.
how much different is the air temp at the intake elbow and UIM?? can any1 verify...
If one relocate the sensor to either the IC piping or intake elbow, i dont think the ecu will think that the air is coller than it really is. The temperature will be around the same as in the UIM, BUT wivout the heat soak!
It seems as tho the stock location of the air temp sensor is design to read the temp of the UIM instead of the actual air...
If one relocate the sensor to either the IC piping or intake elbow, i dont think the ecu will think that the air is coller than it really is. The temperature will be around the same as in the UIM, BUT wivout the heat soak!
It seems as tho the stock location of the air temp sensor is design to read the temp of the UIM instead of the actual air...
Last edited by Cihuuy; Jul 18, 2003 at 08:50 AM.
Think about how many cfm's of air you are moving under boost, it doesn't have enough time to get heated as it moves from the intercooler to the engine's intake ports.
This temperature reading is used to estimate the density of air entering the motor. If it thinks the air is colder, you'll just run a little rich which is much better than a lot of lean when the sensor is stuck 40-C higher than actual air temp.
As for Mazda designing it that way so it must be right, think about how many other things we have to change/redesgin to make the car more reliable.
I find with the sensor relocated to the outlet pipe from my CWR IC, it still heat soaks if you sit but it recovers much faster. You need a PFC to watch air temps on the Commander to fully appreciate the need for this mod.
As for sitting in the staging lanes, it won't heat soak as bad (maybe 2 or 3-C vs. 20-C) with the hood up until the last minute before burning out.
Jack
This temperature reading is used to estimate the density of air entering the motor. If it thinks the air is colder, you'll just run a little rich which is much better than a lot of lean when the sensor is stuck 40-C higher than actual air temp.
As for Mazda designing it that way so it must be right, think about how many other things we have to change/redesgin to make the car more reliable.
I find with the sensor relocated to the outlet pipe from my CWR IC, it still heat soaks if you sit but it recovers much faster. You need a PFC to watch air temps on the Commander to fully appreciate the need for this mod.
As for sitting in the staging lanes, it won't heat soak as bad (maybe 2 or 3-C vs. 20-C) with the hood up until the last minute before burning out.
Jack
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Thanks for all the replies, guys, but I think there's some confusion regarding my intake temps.
The temps were completely due to heat soak. I have the PFS intake, which arguably, runs the coldest of any aftermarket intake, since it only draws air from the nose of the car.
I mentioned relocation because, as Marshall pointed out, the UIM heatsoaks. I simply refuse to believe my true intake temps were 95C (200F!!!).
I also knew to take it easy on the car until the temps dropped down to a semi-reasonable level -- like I said, it took 15 minutes for the temps to hit the 60s C. There is no way the intake air was still that hot at that point.
Cihuuy, thanks for the link but I was already VERY aware of that thread...
BTW, this wasn't an issue of bumper-to-bumper traffic, this was just plain STOPPED due to an accident. It took me over an hour to go 2-2.5 miles. I turned off the A/C about 20 minutes in......
The temps were completely due to heat soak. I have the PFS intake, which arguably, runs the coldest of any aftermarket intake, since it only draws air from the nose of the car.
I mentioned relocation because, as Marshall pointed out, the UIM heatsoaks. I simply refuse to believe my true intake temps were 95C (200F!!!).
I also knew to take it easy on the car until the temps dropped down to a semi-reasonable level -- like I said, it took 15 minutes for the temps to hit the 60s C. There is no way the intake air was still that hot at that point.
Cihuuy, thanks for the link but I was already VERY aware of that thread...

BTW, this wasn't an issue of bumper-to-bumper traffic, this was just plain STOPPED due to an accident. It took me over an hour to go 2-2.5 miles. I turned off the A/C about 20 minutes in......
Originally posted by alwan16
why would you want to relocate the air temp sensor. it is in the best place for it now since it is closest to the engine so the computer can retard the timing with the best most sensitive feedback. that's its job...the whole system was designed with the sensor in that location so why mess with the design? if your intake temps are high that's traffic's fault, not a reason to relocate the sensor. speaking of traffic though i got stuck for 30 minutes on the bay bridge at midnight last night...that's as bad as in the morning
why would you want to relocate the air temp sensor. it is in the best place for it now since it is closest to the engine so the computer can retard the timing with the best most sensitive feedback. that's its job...the whole system was designed with the sensor in that location so why mess with the design? if your intake temps are high that's traffic's fault, not a reason to relocate the sensor. speaking of traffic though i got stuck for 30 minutes on the bay bridge at midnight last night...that's as bad as in the morning
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