Ok to start off my mods

Pineapple racing medium street port
3 in to muffler
non Sequential
pettit unlimited ecu 12psi
no emissions
thermo wax delete

Ok this is a rebuild with about 3k on it so far, the vacuum seems to be low still. My tach is not to be trusted but it seems to be about 10vac at a 1k. I have some videos with compression readings without the shrader valve, and seems to be about 90psi bumps on both rotors. I have done a normal test and its about 100 105, which isnt bad on used housings and end plates. Vacuum still remains low and it makes me worry like crazy.

Well secondly i am confused on tuning in your Tps. Damion's thread in the faq's says the numbers to read for each wire, open or closed. Does the open or closed refer to the secondary butterflys i removed? It also seems that if you just set the one reading that the other one should be corresponding as all you can do is turn the tps one way or the other. Are there any signs of a bad tps, I am having really bad backfiring, and bucking on decel but runs great when in the throttle.

Hope i didnt ramble to much, any help would be nice thanks.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZWBA9FPYdOc Idle, seems to have little lumps

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DbEXG_ejhXI Front rotor

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ylgVtJokR9A Rear rotor

 

With a non-programmable ECU, you'll need to increase the idle rpms to around 1100 for it not to be lumpy without the airpump.

 

I was hoping you would chime in, yeah it seems to be pretty solid but still it makes little poofing sounds which after doing some searching many way is small backfires. In the end of the video it starts to idle higher where i set it and is pulling more like 14psi i vac.

I dont know the vacuum numbers just scare me.

Do you know anything about the TPS adjustment? i have an extra one maybe ill swap it in.

 

Any one adjusted there tps using damions thread, that can give me some pointers?

 

Have you ever adjusted or otherwise touched any of the screws on the throttlebody? Have you done any kind of vacuum or boost leak tests (pressure tester, spray carb cleaner)?

 

Well i tried adjusting the tps after my engine build cuz it didnt seem to run right after the street port, not sure if i made it better or worse. i just tried getting as close as i could to damions numbers but it seemed like the numbers jumped up to fast to adjust it properly.

I will do a leak test asap and see if there is something leaking, does the carb cleaner bubble up like using dishwater detergent?

 

You're supposed to spray carb cleaner when the engine is running to see if it will raise the idle (by being sucked in through the vacuum leak). If you are testing with the engine off using a pressure tester + air compresser then you can spray some soapy-ish water to look for bubbles.

 

Oh ok, i think i am going to make some plugs and test all the inter-cooler piping. Then check with carb cleaner on the rest, i'm guessing it is a pretty noticeable bump in idle i am looking for.

I still need to adjust my tps too though but i guess one thing at a time for now.

Thanks

 

Man my car is bucking and backfiring like crazy on the deceleration, any one know how to adjust the tps properly?

 

Ok i feel like a total jack ***, i was checking the tps with the car running. I am guessing it will be much better when i actually adjust it right.

 

Ok i adjusted my tps to 1v with the key turned to the on position. It seems to not buck on the deceleration now but it still backfires a little. The other thing that is screwed up is that it has a surging idle when i have it set there, the tps is almost maxed out towards the the fender. Anyone have any ideas?

 

Fuel and emissions section of the service manual has the procedure for setting the idle and the TPS. Your deleted your emissions equipment so don't be surprised if it backfires. Mazda put that stuff there for a reason.

 

Its actually a jdm engine not by my choice the previous owner put it in, so it doesnt have the egr stuff so this may be a reason its messed up, using a us ecu.

 

What rpm is your car idling at?

 

Its kinda weird, I have the air screw all the way in and all my linkages zeroed out, but it wants to idle at about 1500rpms, when the tps is adjusted properly. I am going to go back to the fsm and look over everything again, maybe try plugging in the jdm ecu to see if anything changes.

 

Ok so my tps voltage readings dont seem to correspond.

Black wire Closed .902 Open 4.23 Which is in spec by fsm

Green and red wire Closed 2.01 Open 4.97
Which fsm says closed .75-1.25 open 4.2-4.6

So i dont know what to make of it.

 

Your narrow range is out of spec but your full range isn't. You need to adjust it again... basically adjust it the other way so that voltage does donw. Or it's possible the throttle plate could be open too much due to throttlebody adjustment.

 

That seems to be the problem i have tried adjusting it a couple times and cant get both ranges to be within spec. I am just going to have to keep playing with the adjustment on my throttle body for now i guess. It seems to be idling at like 2000rpms now, so damn annoying.

Would i want to adjust the screw with the spring that contacts the bottom of the thermo wax deal all the way in or out or to the stock setting, see how it isnt being used. I figured better screw it in so it would be the same as when the thermo wax melted and compressed.

 

i have a similar issue to you to yourmom23- im trying to get mine running right, its a bit of a headache tho, i have a 93 suzuki cappuccino with a fd3s lump in it, single turbo converted- not running right at all ;-/ if i get anywhere with my problems i could tell you if you still have issues?

What I would I adivise you to check is your tps itself, mine was absolutely trashed.

Check yours with it disconnected from the uim but still plugged in, probe the wires coming out the connector and watch the voltage increase increments. i realised mine was naff when it read nicely up to 1.2 v then a tiny bit more it shot up to 2.4volts! then it went up and down till the switch maxed out.