all the wires are spliced correctely

 

If nothing changed on the engine side, and you are now pulling all those codes; then obvisously something isn't right with the wiring to the ECU.

 

but all we did was unplug it and then plug it back in

 

So the wire splicing was already done "before" the ECU switching?

 

nope we did it because one plug wasn't snapping in.....couldnt think of anything else it could be

 

Ok, are you still pulling all those codes?

 

no, I'm not pulling the crank sensor or the water thermosensor codes anymore.....just a couple of dumb ones like 38,39,40,42,43,44

 

still doesnt start....

 

pulled the spark plugs and their black and dry... the fuel pump is working so what else would be stopping fuel from getting into the engine?

 

And you checked the EGI relay?

 

I'd say in a few days the old man will get tired of seeing this go on, and he'll have a real man get the car working again

Have you tried a NEW set of plugs and a little atf/motor oil in the intake runners? Please tell me you've tried this most basic of all rotary starting techniques. Also please tell me you've verified you recieve spark and fuel delivery from the primary injectors (physical/visual test).

 

yeah the egi relay is alright. Did another check and I'm not getting spark nor fuel........Kevin i'm not as dumb as I use to be, I actually got a little bit of working with chuckles on those long hard days up at Rotary Resurrection..

 

I never said or implied that you were dumb...just that you boys might have a bit more than you can chew at the moment, and these cars present steep learning curves. Be lucky you both have simplified/no emissions/nonsequential cars, which is as easy as it gets with these things.

 

Yep, I'm done with it. No spark, no fuel for sure. I have absolutely no idea what to do now, except to wait on David Payne who said he'd come by Sunday and take a crack at it.

 

bump

 

hmmm...well.....gues I really did stump the "3rd gen" community....

 

dude...not everything can be troubleshot from the internet, or teh phone. Often you have to have your hands on the car, run tests, check for voltages, etc.

If you want to know what I'd do, I'd stop the bs'ing around guessing, get out the FSM for the car, look up the troubleshooting chart at the beginning of the fuel and emissions section, and go right down the list.

 

Amen!

 

I've checked voltages on all the splices and the fuses and relays and also the injectors and crank angle sensors. Went through the service manual and it named a couple of things that would keep the car from running. Two which was the crank angle sensor and the water thermosensor, I am now not getting those codes. Only other thing it said that I can remember was the ecu...and the ecu is good. Sorry if i'm taking it a little far i'm just frustrated that I cant get my car started from something as simple as unplugging the ecu.

 

David Payne= No Show..

 

"Theres no need to fear, Rotary Resurrection is here".

As always, Kevin's coming to the rescue...

 

I got this car back to the shop last night and found the cause by today. I can't say if this was the *original* no-start cause, though, due to all the swapping and other stuff that's went on since then. I found that where the guys spliced in another ecu/harness connector plug (the big #4 plug) they made the mistake of crossing pins 4E and 4H (IIRC), both of which are solid black wires...one is a CAS trigger and one is a ground. This was found with aid of the FSM troubleshooting flow chart and pinout guide, and an ohm meter between the CAS trigger plugs and the ecu pins to check for open wires.

Then I had tach signal but still no start. I tried this ecu in another running car and got a start for a second then it died and wouldnt restart. I then took this ecu and put it back into the car and checked for spark...sparked for 1 second then died. I took another known working ecu and plugged it in and it fired right up and ran for several minutes while I checked other things. So the culprit was the ecu, perhaps fried by the reversed connections, perhaps by something else.

Come to find out, that thick *** FSM does serve a purpose, after all

 

This is what I posted when he originally posted his problem:

Just curious, with your mods why are you running a stock ecu. I see on your description you have an aftermarket one. Maybe you should try plugging that one in. If that ecu works, maybe theres something wrong with your stock ecu.



This is his response:

long story...off topic...bump

 

He has those mods and stock ecu because it is non seq and the wastegate control solenoind has been eliminated and the wastegate is running of the spring so it boosts between 7-8 lbs. Pretty common way to make about 260-280 whp on stock ecu in a safe manner. You can also remove the boost restrictor pills for the same effect.

David Jerome

 

it wasnt my car that was messed up. it was sacker90's many post came from my name bc his car was here when it broke and we posted from my comp. my response was bc my rotary performance ecu was fried and i couldnt get another ecu so i ran his stock one.. i picked up a pettit ecu and thats what im running now. so my response "long story...off topic...bump" was off topic considering it was his car that was messed up...