we're gonna have to work through them...

 

Patience, young jedi..these folks are just trying to help. Jumping on them is a good way to get zero responses.

 

Heh...you seem quite concerned for an old man. Perhaps you're figuring that the repu is about to see more action than it's ready for, if this FD doesnt get fixed?

Perhaps you've had visions of rubber chunks stuck under the rear wheelwells of the turbo 'vert?

 

You are the one that should be concerned...has the tow truck arrived at your place yet?

 

I'm not worried, the warranty on the 'vert motor will be out before too long, and the repu isn't mine anyway

 

The only code associated with a no-start would be the #2 crank positioning sensor, I would check that circuit first, check the sensor and ohm the wiring for that sensor to the ECU. The other codes often times are a domino effect of the primary fault. The other codes although will cause driveability issues but will not cause the engine to not start. If the crank sensor checks out I would be curious of your connections to the ECU and assure proper grounding for the ECU, also inspect not only the pins on the ECU but the wires from the harness where they plug into the connectors. I hope this direction has some value. Let us know what you find, when you find it..

 

Thanks rotorhead, just looked out my window and Lo' and Behold', a tow truck with the afflicted FD has arrived in my driveway. I'll get started with your suggestions right away, the wife won't be happy when she comes home tonight to see that once again, her camry is temporarily evicted from the garage!

Word to all , if you haven't joined AAA, it's worth it for the free towing.

 

Is the crank angle sensor one of the two plugs on the front cover? Theyre are two ground wires coming from the harness and I just put the two on one of the nuts connecting the ecu to the side of the car, i'm guessing thats the right place to put them if not that could be the problem.

 

Yeah yeah..if you really cared, you'd already be on your way here to bail us out
again...

 

1. Remove in the order shown in the figure.
2. Install in the reverse order of removal, referring to Installation Note.

As show in the pic:
1. Battery cable
2. Drive belt
3. Eccentric shaft pulley
4. Crankshaft position sensor plate
5. Bracket
6. Connectors
7. Crankshaft position sensor (NE-signal)
8. Crankshaft position sensor (G-signal)

Inspection
1. Remove the crankshaft position sensor.
2. Measure the resistance of the sensor. Resistance: 0.95-1.25 k ohms @ 20°C (68°F)
3. If not as specified, replace the crankshaft position sensor.

see other pic

Installation Note
Measure the crankshaft position sensor to crankshaft position sensor plate clearance by using feeler gauge.

Clearance: 1.0-2.0 mm (0.039-0.078 in)

 

I can do some of the work all of the time, and all of the work some of the time, but I can't do all the work all of the time

 

Well both the crank angle sensors are good check ohm's in the sensor's and in the plugs...what now?

 

bump

 

Check the obvious, fuel? ignition? Ignitor? Got spark? That thing should at least pop and want to fire if you have both. It's not uncommon for an ignitor to fail, it's happened to me. Even with a faint yellow spark mine wouldn't start. Maybe it shorted out?
Check all of the power to the fuse box with a check light, any open circuits? I think all the codes are false that are present in the ECU so I wouldn't go off that, plus it needs to go into closed loop before those codes can be close to accurate. Start with the basics now. Good luck!

 

If you spliced the wire harness incorrectly... the ECU would report that.... as HARD faults... not to be confused with soft ones... Basically, as the ECU goes through its' POST (Power On Self Test) it'll report any voltage problems as faults or failures and store those codes.

If possible, try to straiten out the harness to its' OEM configuration. Then, once your sure it's correct and the ECU is happy, get some starting Either. squirt that into the intake and see if the car starts to fire up. If so, then you're likely not getting fuel to the injectors. CHeck the Fuel pump and its' circuit.

However, know that until you get the wiring issue cured, you'll be pretty much chasing your tail. Also, (and this is with the stock ECU) when you clear/ correct a problem, you'll have to disconnect the battery cable and then step on the break pedal. this'll kill ALL power to the system and allow the ECU to slick itself out. Then, when you reconnect the power and cycle the key, the ECU will go through a fresh POST..... if all is good, you won't get any hard codes. Certain reported codes/faults that would cause the "Check-Engine" light to illuminate given the stock ECU will put the car in "SAFE-MODE. This happens with a stock OEM setup.

Good luck

 

All the splices are correct, and I did spray starting fluid in the intake and still just crank..crank...crank... I checked the fuses an they were just fine.

 

Well, then just what the hell GOOD are ya???

 

Are you still pulling all those codes?

What exactly is the history behind this? Was this an engine swap?

 

Got Spark? Nice and blue or yellow and weak?

 

No I put my stock ecu on z4csl428's car because his modded one wasnt working and it works fine in his car, but not mine now.

 

I;m not sure what color spark, i can check again

 

Would it matter though? If it was yellow what would I need to check?

 

Ok, so there were NO changes to your car other than removing the ECU and putting it back?

 

nope nothing else was changed. his harness has been hacked into though, some wires are just cut and some run to the car harness. i dont know if that has anything to do with it since it ran fine before but...

 

If nothing else has changed, then it's either flooded or the wiring harness is fudged.

Make sure the ground wire that usually bolts to the spark plug side/area of the engine is still in tact and grounded properly. That wire not being grounded will cause the car to crank but not start.