Time for an upgrade
#1
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Time for an upgrade
Well I think I'm finally ready to do it. BNR Stage 3's and a Streetport.
What shop do you guys recommend (I'm a San Jose local)? Anyone know a shop that does a lot of these?
I was thinking about going threw Rotary Evolution.
These #'s sound about right?
rebuild with streetport $1600+
stage 3 twins from BNR $2350
engine removal and reinstall $1200
downpipe $150 (installed already)
Apexi Power FC standalone $900
rewire fuel pump $45
walbro 255LPH fuel pump w/install $150
upgraded secondary injectors $200
tuning $150
Intercooler $200-1000 (What IC do you guys recommend?)
Thanks
What shop do you guys recommend (I'm a San Jose local)? Anyone know a shop that does a lot of these?
I was thinking about going threw Rotary Evolution.
These #'s sound about right?
rebuild with streetport $1600+
stage 3 twins from BNR $2350
engine removal and reinstall $1200
downpipe $150 (installed already)
Apexi Power FC standalone $900
rewire fuel pump $45
walbro 255LPH fuel pump w/install $150
upgraded secondary injectors $200
tuning $150
Intercooler $200-1000 (What IC do you guys recommend?)
Thanks
Last edited by Wild7; 02-19-08 at 02:25 AM.
#2
rotor rotor pow.
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that rebuild will probably cost more, there's always a good chance that the rotor housings won't be reusable. why not pull the engine yourself its pretty simple and i have a engine hoist i won't be needing in a few weeks once i get my engine and tranny dropped in. im in vallejo and u can have it for cheap
#3
Derek
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I would always plan to pay a few thousand more when doing a big project like that. Problems, necessary small parts, and new upgrades will happen.
The rebuilt plus streetport will cost a bit more. It depends on if you are reusing parts. As long as they are in spec you can save money and re-use parts.
Ya to save some of that money, just remove and instal the engine yourself. I did it in about 2 days.
Also do the fuel pump rewire yourself. I don't even think cost for wire would cost that much. I did this myself as well in about 30 min.
Secondary injectors will probably cost a hundred or two more. As will the tuning.
For the I/C, it just depends. Do a bit of research. I will always recommend the Blitz FMIC though. It's awesome looking, relatively cheap (bought mine for about 800 from a member), and still allows adequate cooling to radiator.
Just buy all the major parts (Intercooler, Injectors, Fuel Pump, Power FC, etc) then work out a budget for the rebuild.
The rebuilt plus streetport will cost a bit more. It depends on if you are reusing parts. As long as they are in spec you can save money and re-use parts.
Ya to save some of that money, just remove and instal the engine yourself. I did it in about 2 days.
Also do the fuel pump rewire yourself. I don't even think cost for wire would cost that much. I did this myself as well in about 30 min.
Secondary injectors will probably cost a hundred or two more. As will the tuning.
For the I/C, it just depends. Do a bit of research. I will always recommend the Blitz FMIC though. It's awesome looking, relatively cheap (bought mine for about 800 from a member), and still allows adequate cooling to radiator.
Just buy all the major parts (Intercooler, Injectors, Fuel Pump, Power FC, etc) then work out a budget for the rebuild.
#8
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It's going to be a street car used on the weekends and I'd like get at least 380rwhp out of it.
I'm not sure about the singles... I really don't think I'd want all the lag that comes with a single set up. Also I believe single set ups are a lot more anyways aren't they...
Maybe I should look into a GT35/40 set up instead. I'm guessing that set up would cost more too though.
I'll continue to save if need be.
#9
FEED me
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Hmmm. I don't remember hearing the numbers to be that low. I thought it was pretty easy to get 380+rwhp with the BNR III's. Maybe not..
It's going to be a street car used on the weekends and I'd like get at least 380rwhp out of it.
I'm not sure about the singles... I really don't think I'd want all the lag that comes with a single set up. Also I believe single set ups are a lot more anyways aren't they...
Maybe I should look into a GT35/40 set up instead. I'm guessing that set up would cost more too though.
I'll continue to save if need be.
It's going to be a street car used on the weekends and I'd like get at least 380rwhp out of it.
I'm not sure about the singles... I really don't think I'd want all the lag that comes with a single set up. Also I believe single set ups are a lot more anyways aren't they...
Maybe I should look into a GT35/40 set up instead. I'm guessing that set up would cost more too though.
I'll continue to save if need be.
380RWHP is a lot to be pushing out of twins, BNR or not. They will take it though, but it all depends on what you want out of it. You keeping it street legal (keeping smog, etc..)? If not I wouldn't even go with the twins and just throw in a single. All depends on what you want wioth the car of course.
About the engine build, good luck finding a CHEAP build. Remember you get what you pay for. Also, I'd redo your list up there, it underestimates the cost in the following sections:
-rebuild
-tune
-intercooler
-fuel pump w/install (I'd just install it yourself, mad easy)
-secondary injectors
You're headed in the right direction, but you need to do a little more research. Those things you want to do cost at least about 25% more than what you're thinking. Even the turbos from BNR. You have to calculate shipping cost, and anything extra you want done to them IE ceramic coating or what not. ONE MORE THING. Rick's Rotary has cores to send to BNR. He charges a $1,000 deposit and he'll get the set sent out, and when you're ready to install them (obviously if you build with him, it would be a free install) you pay the rest when you're done with your build.
-Jeff
#10
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Actually Rynberg has great numbers for a conservative tune on the BNR IIIs. He tuned for low boost, since he does track, and didn't want them to heat up too much. He got his motor built at Rick's Rotary in Pleasanton. Had 3mm seals thrown into the package, and we really don't hear from him much lately. Must be having fun with that reliable awesome car of his. BTW he got 350RWHP off of our GREAT pump 91. Until you drive a FD sequentially with 350RWHP I wouldn't judge it just yet.
380RWHP is a lot to be pushing out of twins, BNR or not. They will take it though, but it all depends on what you want out of it. You keeping it street legal (keeping smog, etc..)? If not I wouldn't even go with the twins and just throw in a single. All depends on what you want wioth the car of course.
About the engine build, good luck finding a CHEAP build. Remember you get what you pay for. Also, I'd redo your list up there, it underestimates the cost in the following sections:
-rebuild
-tune
-intercooler
-fuel pump w/install (I'd just install it yourself, mad easy)
-secondary injectors
You're headed in the right direction, but you need to do a little more research. Those things you want to do cost at least about 25% more than what you're thinking. Even the turbos from BNR. You have to calculate shipping cost, and anything extra you want done to them IE ceramic coating or what not. ONE MORE THING. Rick's Rotary has cores to send to BNR. He charges a $1,000 deposit and he'll get the set sent out, and when you're ready to install them (obviously if you build with him, it would be a free install) you pay the rest when you're done with your build.
-Jeff
380RWHP is a lot to be pushing out of twins, BNR or not. They will take it though, but it all depends on what you want out of it. You keeping it street legal (keeping smog, etc..)? If not I wouldn't even go with the twins and just throw in a single. All depends on what you want wioth the car of course.
About the engine build, good luck finding a CHEAP build. Remember you get what you pay for. Also, I'd redo your list up there, it underestimates the cost in the following sections:
-rebuild
-tune
-intercooler
-fuel pump w/install (I'd just install it yourself, mad easy)
-secondary injectors
You're headed in the right direction, but you need to do a little more research. Those things you want to do cost at least about 25% more than what you're thinking. Even the turbos from BNR. You have to calculate shipping cost, and anything extra you want done to them IE ceramic coating or what not. ONE MORE THING. Rick's Rotary has cores to send to BNR. He charges a $1,000 deposit and he'll get the set sent out, and when you're ready to install them (obviously if you build with him, it would be a free install) you pay the rest when you're done with your build.
-Jeff
Thanks
#16
White chicks > *
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If you are working on a tight budget, my suggestion is dont actually send the car to the shop just yet.
Always assume the worse, especially when you are not sure of what part will be replaced because like others say, other things most likely will need to be replaced and that wasnt accounted for in your price breakdown list.
Im not an expert on engine building but from your little list, i would tack on 2-3 grand for the WORST. Just a heads up.
Always assume the worse, especially when you are not sure of what part will be replaced because like others say, other things most likely will need to be replaced and that wasnt accounted for in your price breakdown list.
Im not an expert on engine building but from your little list, i would tack on 2-3 grand for the WORST. Just a heads up.
#17
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If you are working on a tight budget, my suggestion is dont actually send the car to the shop just yet.
Always assume the worse, especially when you are not sure of what part will be replaced because like others say, other things most likely will need to be replaced and that wasnt accounted for in your price breakdown list.
Im not an expert on engine building but from your little list, i would tack on 2-3 grand for the WORST. Just a heads up.
Always assume the worse, especially when you are not sure of what part will be replaced because like others say, other things most likely will need to be replaced and that wasnt accounted for in your price breakdown list.
Im not an expert on engine building but from your little list, i would tack on 2-3 grand for the WORST. Just a heads up.
1 being I want some side cash for my FD in case I run into problems.
& 2 being I'm 21 now and I need to get a place soon before I hit 22 (7 months).
I might just can the whole thing and wait till I get settled in my new place.
It's tempting though.
#21
I'm not sure about the place you're taking your car for the work, Banzai Racing gives a 1 year warranty with their rebuilds, you may want to ask.
As far as the other questions go, I would go with a single gt35r, the funfactor beats the lag by a long shot. If you want to save some money, buy all your parts out of the for sale section.
Blitz fmic ftw
As far as the other questions go, I would go with a single gt35r, the funfactor beats the lag by a long shot. If you want to save some money, buy all your parts out of the for sale section.
Blitz fmic ftw
#23
Cheap Bastard
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New rotor housings will cost $1400-1500, and will likely be needed for a rebuild. Porting will be another $300. A seal kit (stock seals) is very expensive too. Those numbers don't even include any labor. Your cost estimates are way too low. With everything you will need, including an intercooler, you are probably looking at over $10K.
#24
ChumpCar**Apex of Failure
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I think you are going to need more tuning then what $150 will buy you. Either a more expensive more experienced person, or someone with less experience and more time. Either way, i'd double that at least.
Don't forget about all the other little things you should probably be looking at when you are doing a rebuild. Things like water hoses, gaskets, fuel lines, filters, fluids, motor mounts, water pump, thermostat, clean/flow testing for your primary injectors.
Don't forget about all the other little things you should probably be looking at when you are doing a rebuild. Things like water hoses, gaskets, fuel lines, filters, fluids, motor mounts, water pump, thermostat, clean/flow testing for your primary injectors.
#25
White chicks > *
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Well the thing is I have enough to cover it.. but there's other factors to consider.
1 being I want some side cash for my FD in case I run into problems.
& 2 being I'm 21 now and I need to get a place soon before I hit 22 (7 months).
I might just can the whole thing and wait till I get settled in my new place.
It's tempting though.
1 being I want some side cash for my FD in case I run into problems.
& 2 being I'm 21 now and I need to get a place soon before I hit 22 (7 months).
I might just can the whole thing and wait till I get settled in my new place.
It's tempting though.
If so, then i guess you dont have to worry about financial problems. If you only have enough for one or the other, let the car wait and settle in your new place first. Why would you want a fast running car and have no where to live? Or live longer in your current place which im assuming you want out of.