Ok, motor still runs, just lack of power. I was planing on geting a new motor this year either way. I have not had a compression test done yet but I would guess a corner seal being stuck or a cracked seal seal from the way my car runs. My questions are as follows.

1. I am running a good size single turbo (gt40r). Car made 430 on the stock old motor on a bad tune (just fine tuned to 14psi). My goal is 500 at 23-25psi this time. What porting should I go with?

2. What builder? I have dealt with many shops for parts over the last 6-8 years. I have heard all were the best and the worst at the same time. I am leaning towards Gotham racing as Steve did my last tune and will be doing the next.

3. The old 2mm vs. 3mm question. I am leaning towards 3mm. ??

4. Should I consider lower compression rotors?

5. What other upgrades should I consider?

 

First of all get a compression gauge and check your compression on your rotary,
once you know comp is bad then plan on rebuilding engine
It is really simple to do yourself
Good Luck

 

A guy here in indiana is getting himself a good reputation on building motors.... as mine runs EXCELLENT on pump gas and 12 lbs. of boost. PM me for his information...
on the other things. DO NOT wait for your motor to go bad before a rebuild. this is when your parts become junk, and are not rebuildable. A guy at AIM tuning said this "FD motors when they are blown, is all they can be said about themselves... blown" to get dead FD cores back to life it takes more work than it is worth than just buying new, expensive parts.

If you have a strong reasonable suspicion that your motor is going bad, and have ruled out all sensors/wiring/spark/etc. being the culprit of the problem, then rebuild it. There is no use driving the car an extra 500 miles for the purpose of driving it, than to waste rotors, and housings.

 

Yeah, thats why I have not bothered to get a compression test done. If the motor is not bad it has 100k and brittle seals that are waiting to ruin my ball bearing turbo! Like I stated above I was going to get a new motor this year either why. Now its just to decide on what builder and options! Maybe I should start a poll on Gotham racing, Pineapple and rotary performance. ???

 

After making a few phone calls today it is very odd to see the differant prices people are charging for there rebuilds. I will not go into names but I have prices from 1900 to 4200 on the same options!! I guess the reason I have considered using one of the big names is thats who you regularly here reviews on. If you have had good results with a builder on a 450+ hp motor. Getting 20-30k+ miles out of it please continue to post there names or PM me. Thanks...

 

Hey what's up man?!? If you want to push that kind of power, I'd suggest low compression rotors and you may see more than the 30K you are looking for. CLR Motorsports in Miami can work rotors like this... I bet they are a pricey build but top notch...

seals, I'd use 2mm RA or ceramic, RA is a magnitude cheaper, use stock springs. All the other seals, use OEM. I've got RA seals and springs in my motor with solid corner seals...been running 16psi for 7500miles and I don't have any problems, but they recommend stock springs for high boost, so I probably won't run anymore boost. (you car feels slow because the 40R probably isn't awake at 14psi, haha)

Hell, if you've got the time, build it yourself. You'll make out with all the necessary tools, knowledge, and motor that you know went into...for a fraction of that $4200.

PM me if you have any questions always happy to help out.

 

Time is one thing I do not have! Hell, I am trying to figure when I will even be able to just pull the motor!

I will look into the lower comp. rotors more. I have heard they cause an increase in lag but for big boost- drag racing who cares, right!

I have found one semi local builder that I am looking into. He built Phil's (Herblenny) last motor. If this does not work out then I have a couple of others I might use.

 

Dowel pinning.