Dudemaaanownsanrx7

iTrader: (23)

Today my throttle kept sticking, it was really annoying. Every time i would shift the revs would go up to like 3500 rpm. When i would sit at a red light my car would rev to 3500 like i was about to launch off the line, It was quite embarrassing.

I thought it was catching on a vacuum hose that goes to the catch can so i rerouted it a little further down, at first it seemed like it was fixed.

Then i stomped on the gas several times with the car off and the petal felt all weird. popped the hood and the throttle was stuck way open. I tried opening and closing it by hand and it seems like the return spring isnt working like it should. i have to manually push it closed.

It appears to have several springs. and the two outer ones dont look right, i think the larger one closest to the throttle body is still working. Anyways has anyone ran into this issue? whats involved in fixing it? Is the return spring expensive? can i use a spring from something else that will work just as well?

Dudemaaanownsanrx7

iTrader: (23)

well i took my UIM off and took my linkage apart, Which it turned out was unnecessary. I'm kind of glad i did anyways cause now i know how to and it wasnt so bad.

After i took the springs and linkage all apart i played with the throttle a bit and it was still sticking at the bottom half of its travel. It turned out That part of the AWS or Double throttle that remained (not sure which it went to), was flipped around and putting pressure on the pivot area preventing it from closing. So i took my TPS off and removed the spring and metal bracket that was preventing it from moving.
This was the culprit.

Eggie

Neither, actually. That's the fast-idle cam linkage.

Dudemaaanownsanrx7

iTrader: (23)

isnt the fast idle part of the AWS (accelerated warm up system)?

Eggie

Nope. AWS uses an ECU-controlled solenoid to bleed air past the throttle, raising RPM to ~3k. The warm-up system holds the throttle plate open using a mechanical system that is controlled by engine coolant temperature.

You can remove AWS and retain the fast-idle system. Conversely, if you do the TB-coolant bypass, the AWS is unaffected.

Dudemaaanownsanrx7

iTrader: (23)

so it has 2 warm up systems? I see. I removed all that stuff like 5 years ago, but now i do recall it running at 3k and then it would drop down a bit but still be high. I figured it was all part of the same system. Oh well, the little bit that remained that did any idle adjustments that i dont specify has now been removed. Thanks for sharing that. Even though its all gone now i still like to know what all the systems do.