damian

iTrader: (2)

I removed the AWS and double throttle from my UIM and I was plannign on pypassing the UIM in the coolant path.

My question is, can I just plug the ends that would be the UIM coolant path? or do you need to have a flow through?

- one end is on the engine, next to the lower intake manifold

- one end comes out of the block where the coolant cap is (not the ast cap, the filler cap)

can I just plug these two or is there a deliberate flow that I would be congesting byt pluggin these 2?

twinturboteddy

yes

damian

iTrader: (2)

hehehe, thanks TTT, you da man :-)

wait...you mean 'yes' as in yes I can plug them, not yes you need it to flow through...right? (heheheh)

puma

iTrader: (2)

yeah i was wondering too because it makes a long line but i don't know if there is any purpose for it.

damian

iTrader: (2)

exactly puma, i would like to just eliminate the long bypass line by pluggin the ends....but at the same time I dont want to screw up the coolant flow pattern

duboisr

You can plug the block at the rear and plug the front outlet at the top of the water pump housing. No problems with flow .

damian

iTrader: (2)

thanks duboirs

puma

iTrader: (2)

well seems good so far, anyone else?

someone don't agree with our 2 gentleman?

damian

iTrader: (2)

by the way, what did you guys plug the ends with?
I used a generic rubber cap (from a local checker autoparts store), do I have to worry about this cap busting open while im on the track!!! or should it be able to hold up. I know this is a very open ended question but I am just wondering what your experience is...

unvmyrx7

iTrader: (14)

check out rob robinnete's site for the how to, it will affect your fast idle, similar to the bac valve on the 2nd gen

http://www.rx7turboturbo.com/robrobi...dy_coolant.htm

i ran a 5/8 hose from the back of the water pump housing to the rear stationary housing

duboisr

Garfinkle removes the metal tubing and drills for the tap size pipe plug needed. he is smart enought to do this with out getting chips in the system .(before all flame on this .) then puts in pipe plug. If you want to go back just remove the plugs and put in threaded hose barbs. No one has gone back to the hot wax rod in the 6 years he has been doing this . He will not use rubber caps that can fail with heat and pressure, customer satisfaction.

jspecracer7

I've used rubber caps for awhile now with no problems. I know of two other people who've owned single turbo FD's that have them plugged for over 2 years without failure.

As a temporary fix, you could use the rubber line that's at the back of the engine block and run it directly to the water pump housing.

duboisr

I am sure rubber plugs are fine but if you pay for a mod or fix and it fails most people get upset. So Gar tries to do things fail proof the best he knows how .You can not complain with the best job out there .Get what you want and get what you pay for. If a rubber plug fails after 2years it still failed.

jspecracer7

I didn't pay ANYBODY to put it in, I did it with a pair of pliers. It cost me about 30 cents for both of them.I NEVER said that it was the best way to do it, I just shared my experience with rubber and what I have seen other people's experiences with it.

Garfinkle is a figment of your imagination. I have YET to see proof of this so called "rx7 expert" ... When I see some type of proof I'll start believeing you about "garfinkle's" expertise. Even if he is real, where is YOUR expertise in the matter. Until then, go see a Psychiatrist. Seems like you swing from your imaginary friend garfinkle's nuts a lot duboisr.

rxrotary2_7

what shop does this garfinkle work out of? i see this name tossed around a lot... but who is he?

damian

iTrader: (2)

thanks for the feedback jspecracer7

Air-Rex

I wondered about garfinkle to. I'd worry about plugs though, If there a generic no-name plug.

jspecracer7

N/P. I'd go ahead and buy a couple extra and throw them in the glove box just in case. That way, if you get stranded because of failure, you can always put one on real quick....at least the front one anyways. The rear one may take some "finess" to put on w/o taking the UIM off.

I actually used the plastic table ends to block off one of my BOV lines(I had it welded into the IC piping) and that held up till the day I went single turbo. I'm sure that the turbo gets hotter than the water anyday...

flunkysama

iTrader: (4)

There is another alternative. Cut the old hose short and stick a plug in that and clamp it. A reinforced neoprene water hose has better temp and pressure resistance than a plain rubber plug.

I have to warn people that there is a purpose to running hot water to the throttle body besides working the fast idle mechanism. It's to prevent Iceing. There's a big pressure drop when air goes past the throttle plates. A pressure drop means condenstation. And in cold weather that means ice. Iceing has been known to cause throttles to stick open.

Actually, one could just get a valve of some kind and put it in the long water hose behind and below the UIM. Close it in the summer, open it in winter.

damian

iTrader: (2)

flunkysama, great info

icing is not a big deal for me since I store the car in the winter, but good point regaurdless

TomsRX7

Hehehehe, you guys are funny , talking shiet about this imaginary Garfinkle. Until he speaks for himself, I would agree that he is a figure of SOMEONE's imagination.

But back to biz.....when I removed my AST, I didn't feel comfortable with just putting a rubber cap on a nipple that sees hot, pressurized water every time I drive the car. So along the lines of what flunkysama recommended, I used a 2 inch piece of the same water hose (that is manufactured/designed to withstand hot, pressurized water), stuck a nice, tight-fitting bolt in it, and clamped it with standard hose clamps at both ends. Note that the threads on the bolt act as barbs so it won't pop out.

IMO, it surely isn't the best looking solution but it's probably as strong and permanent as you're going to get, aside from drilling, tapping and inserting a metal plug.

Another thing: with this method, I can always go back to stock but if you drill & tap, you are sacrificing some of the nipple wall thickness. If you've ever seen a rear side housing with a rusted nipple that is eaten up pretty good, then you can appreciate the idea of wanting to keep as much of the nipple wall there as possible.

Have a great New Year,
Tom

damian

iTrader: (2)

hmm, good info Tom