for those who have done the hose job...
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From: Marco Island, FL
the simplification doesn't affect any aspect of the turbo system, so turbo simplification is kind of misleading. It should be called the emissions control and double throttle elimination.
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From: Myanmar
Originally posted by DRAG0NEER
i wouldn't recommend doing the simplification unless your sequential setup ain't working right.
i wouldn't recommend doing the simplification unless your sequential setup ain't working right.
care to elaborate?
i have some boost problem... sometimes the secondary turbo doesnt come on line... and dats y im trying to do the simplification as it will clear the vacuum hoses and make it easier for diagnosing future problem(s)...
we dont have emission laws around here, so dats another reason...
Last edited by Cihuuy; Mar 21, 2003 at 02:22 PM.
Some comments:
1) Updates: Yes, I should probably update my web site instructions and diagram. There are several mistakes / omissions that have been pointed out over time. I can't update the copy at Robinette's site since it is no longer maintained, as far as I know.
2) Hoses: The difference between the 3.5mm and 4mm hose is the wall thickness. The 3.5mm is meant for vacuum and has thicker walls. It is less likely to collapse. It is okay to use the 4mm for pressure lines but I'd try to avoid it for vacuum lines. I have had great success with the Silver Hose Techniques 3.5mm hose and would recommend it to anyone. It fits on the nipples so tightly that tie wraps are probably totally unneccessary. I have never had one of these hoses pop off.
3) Yes it should be called the Turbo System Simplification because the number of turbo system hoses is cut roughly in half, mostly because of the removal of the metal "rats nest" manifold. I have made several changes to my setup since then and removed even more hoses. It is indeed a simplification of the turbo control system, however no parts are removed that affect the performance of the system.
4) Fuel Pressure Regulator: If keeping the stock regulator, the FPR solenoid can be removed and/or bypassed. The critical thing here is that a boost reference hose is attached to the stock regulator or an aftermarket regulator. This isn't clearly explained in the How To.
5) The Orange Hose: I should have connected it in the diagram because people ask about it periodically.
6) The Lower Intake Pass-Through nipples: All the nipples on the upper part of the Lower Intake manifold are just pass through nipples. The paths are independent and don't connect with the intake ports. Any of these that aren't used don't need capped. The only reason to actually use these is for convenience. Using any of these actually makes the number of turbo control hoses go up (if a pass-through is used, one hose just turned into two hoses).
Wade
1) Updates: Yes, I should probably update my web site instructions and diagram. There are several mistakes / omissions that have been pointed out over time. I can't update the copy at Robinette's site since it is no longer maintained, as far as I know.
2) Hoses: The difference between the 3.5mm and 4mm hose is the wall thickness. The 3.5mm is meant for vacuum and has thicker walls. It is less likely to collapse. It is okay to use the 4mm for pressure lines but I'd try to avoid it for vacuum lines. I have had great success with the Silver Hose Techniques 3.5mm hose and would recommend it to anyone. It fits on the nipples so tightly that tie wraps are probably totally unneccessary. I have never had one of these hoses pop off.
3) Yes it should be called the Turbo System Simplification because the number of turbo system hoses is cut roughly in half, mostly because of the removal of the metal "rats nest" manifold. I have made several changes to my setup since then and removed even more hoses. It is indeed a simplification of the turbo control system, however no parts are removed that affect the performance of the system.
4) Fuel Pressure Regulator: If keeping the stock regulator, the FPR solenoid can be removed and/or bypassed. The critical thing here is that a boost reference hose is attached to the stock regulator or an aftermarket regulator. This isn't clearly explained in the How To.
5) The Orange Hose: I should have connected it in the diagram because people ask about it periodically.
6) The Lower Intake Pass-Through nipples: All the nipples on the upper part of the Lower Intake manifold are just pass through nipples. The paths are independent and don't connect with the intake ports. Any of these that aren't used don't need capped. The only reason to actually use these is for convenience. Using any of these actually makes the number of turbo control hoses go up (if a pass-through is used, one hose just turned into two hoses).
Wade
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From: IN
So Wade, are you saying that there could be nipples under my UIM that don't have a hose attached to it? Mine is not simplified. I noticed one of rat's nest nipples is missing a hose. The hose job was already done...
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From: North Coast
Originally posted by SleepR1
So Wade, are you saying that there could be nipples under my UIM that don't have a hose attached to it? Mine is not simplified. I noticed one of rat's nest nipples is missing a hose. The hose job was already done...
So Wade, are you saying that there could be nipples under my UIM that don't have a hose attached to it? Mine is not simplified. I noticed one of rat's nest nipples is missing a hose. The hose job was already done...
Originally posted by apneablue
From the full color diagram and simplified diagram, I can not pinpoint where the one-way check valve from the vacuum chamber is? Can someone help me where this check valve is??
From the full color diagram and simplified diagram, I can not pinpoint where the one-way check valve from the vacuum chamber is? Can someone help me where this check valve is??
HERE, there is no check valve on the vacuum chamber.
When I completed my hose job in november I still had a boost issue (can't remember what it was now but it wasn't right) I couldn't figure out because everything seemed fine...January 31st 03 I take the car to RP and have them do the engine rear main seal and diagnose the boost problem. Well, they fixed it in a matter of minutes. I asked what it was and they said "You were just missing a check valve so we put a good used one in."
I followed that diagram to a Tee. I treced and retraced every hose about three times before I reinstalled the UIM. What I didn't remember to ask (probably cuz I was so happy I would now have propper boost) was "which check valve was it?" I asked how my hose job was and they said it was great and that was the only thing.
Question of the day "Is the vacuum chamber supposed to have a check valve or not?
Last edited by apneablue; May 21, 2003 at 07:27 AM.
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From: IN
Originally posted by apneablue
Could it be the empty pipe towards the front of the rack that is used on auto cars you are talking about?
according to the hose diagram that I used to put my system back together located
HERE, there is no check valve on the vacuum chamber.
When I completed my hose job in november I still had a boost issue (can't remember what it was now but it wasn't right) I couldn't figure out because everything seemed fine...January 31st 03 I take the car to RP and have them do the engine rear main seal and diagnose the boost problem. Well, they fixed it in a matter of minutes. I asked what it was and they said "You were just missing a check valve so we put a good used one in."
I followed that diagram to a Tee. I treced and retraced every hose about three times before I reinstalled the UIM. What I didn't remember to ask (probably cuz I was so happy I would now have propper boost) was "which check valve was it?" I asked how my hose job was and they said it was great and that was the only thing.
Question of the day "Is the vacuum chamber supposed to have a check valve or not?
Could it be the empty pipe towards the front of the rack that is used on auto cars you are talking about?
according to the hose diagram that I used to put my system back together located
HERE, there is no check valve on the vacuum chamber.
When I completed my hose job in november I still had a boost issue (can't remember what it was now but it wasn't right) I couldn't figure out because everything seemed fine...January 31st 03 I take the car to RP and have them do the engine rear main seal and diagnose the boost problem. Well, they fixed it in a matter of minutes. I asked what it was and they said "You were just missing a check valve so we put a good used one in."
I followed that diagram to a Tee. I treced and retraced every hose about three times before I reinstalled the UIM. What I didn't remember to ask (probably cuz I was so happy I would now have propper boost) was "which check valve was it?" I asked how my hose job was and they said it was great and that was the only thing.
Question of the day "Is the vacuum chamber supposed to have a check valve or not?
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From: IN
I referenced the first diagram in Cirian's site, which doesn not show that empty pipe. That's also the diagream I traced the vacuum chamber check valve. I followed the purple (vacuum) lines until I found where the check valve was located...
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From: North Coast
Originally posted by SleepR1
The vacuum chamber does have a check valve. I found it (I think). It's located between the firewall and the the back of the throttle body. It's the only check valve in that location. Bad news is that there's no easy way to access that check valve short of removing the UIM (sigh). BTW, my FD is a manual, so theoretically there shoudn't be an empty pipe if only the slush box FDs have the empty pipe, right?
The vacuum chamber does have a check valve. I found it (I think). It's located between the firewall and the the back of the throttle body. It's the only check valve in that location. Bad news is that there's no easy way to access that check valve short of removing the UIM (sigh). BTW, my FD is a manual, so theoretically there shoudn't be an empty pipe if only the slush box FDs have the empty pipe, right?
Dude, what are you looking at? is that check valve green/white or a black/white? if it is one of those color combos then it is a check valva...if it's black, then you would be looking at teh gas filter coming off the pressure sensor...
That empty hose is on all manual tranny FDs with a solonoid rack...they just don't use it becasue it's for the AT FDs...They don't make two separate racks for AT & MT.
Can you post a [HTTP://] link to ciriani's site since you know exactly where it is?
Rotary Freak
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From: Boston, MA
People who removed the emissions stuff and put on block off plates: How the **** did you guys get the studs off!!! I go the studs off the UIM, but the ones on the LIM are ****** on there good!!! I managed to get only one stud off with a vice grip!
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From: Myanmar
hahaha... thats what happen to me as well... but the hardest part for me was to remove the freakn rat nest!! the screw were pretty tuff... i got me self a saw and reaaaally cut that thing in two! i later found out that i could have done it a different way... *sigh* oh well, whats done is done...
WADE: thanks for the update...
WADE: thanks for the update...
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From: IN
Originally posted by apneablue
Dude, what are you looking at? is that check valve green/white or a black/white? if it is one of those color combos then it is a check valva...if it's black, then you would be looking at teh gas filter coming off the pressure sensor...
Dude, what are you looking at? is that check valve green/white or a black/white? if it is one of those color combos then it is a check valva...if it's black, then you would be looking at teh gas filter coming off the pressure sensor...
That empty hose is on all manual tranny FDs with a solonoid rack...they just don't use it becasue it's for the AT FDs...They don't make two separate racks for AT & MT.
Can you post a [HTTP://] link to ciriani's site since you know exactly where it is?
Last edited by SleepR1; May 21, 2003 at 03:46 PM.
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From: North Coast
Originally posted by SleepR1
[B]It's a green and white colored check valve. It's underneath the throttle body on the firewall side of the UIM. Look UNDER the AWS line (mine has been plugged because I have a Power FC). It's the ONLY green and white check valve there. It's NOT the gas filter that connects to the pressure sensor.[B] You mean there's an unused nipple that's NOT supposed to have a hose attached to it? http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/v...placement.html Look at the last pic in the series. There's a shot of the rat's nest with the UIM off. The Green and white vacuum chamber check valve is the one in the back toward the firewall. It's pointing upward...
[B]It's a green and white colored check valve. It's underneath the throttle body on the firewall side of the UIM. Look UNDER the AWS line (mine has been plugged because I have a Power FC). It's the ONLY green and white check valve there. It's NOT the gas filter that connects to the pressure sensor.[B] You mean there's an unused nipple that's NOT supposed to have a hose attached to it? http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/v...placement.html Look at the last pic in the series. There's a shot of the rat's nest with the UIM off. The Green and white vacuum chamber check valve is the one in the back toward the firewall. It's pointing upward...
Yeah, the unused rack line I am talking about is in this pic...see right right behind the coolant hose which is beside the alternator, there is a metal pipe on the rack sticking straight up...that's te one that's unused...
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From: IN
Actually I don't see the vacuum chamber check valve in the pic above. It's supposed to be near the firewall, not the fender. Yes, that's the metal nipple I'm referring to. I guess everyone's RIGHT. That nipple does not have a vacuum attached to it...3900+ posts, and I'm still learning about this damned car 
Last edited by SleepR1; May 21, 2003 at 10:59 PM.
