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Thermal Pellet Help Needed

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Old Apr 21, 2008 | 10:56 PM
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Thermal Pellet Help Needed

Okay, the front bolt, spring and thermal pellet were installed incorrectly, so now I need to know how it is suppose to be.

First off, I have what looks like the thermal pellet from Atkins. it was installed in front of the spring, rather than the spring first, pellet, and front bolt (atleast thats what I gathered from the FSM). Bolt was installed and then removed afterwards to reveal the spring wound around the front bolt, so new spring is needed obviously.

So my question is, based off of this crappy picture, is that what I believe is an atkins thermal pellet or atleast the one they offer , if so, is it where it is suppose to be? If not, how do I get it out? What problems could this have caused if any, or did it get mashed in there from when the front bolt and spring were put in behind it? Do I even still need the big spring with this thermal pellet from atkins?

Motor rebuilt but not in the car yet and the Thermal pellet is in about an inch from what you see in the picture.


**Pic won't load up, hosting site is down, but I can get it up shortly.
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Old Apr 21, 2008 | 11:29 PM
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Or if you know how the atkins themal pellet plug is suppose to be installed, that would help as well so I know where I stand at this point.
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Old Apr 21, 2008 | 11:33 PM
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the long thin end of the atkins pellet inserts into the e-shaft bolt. the shorter end has a stepped section for the spring to seat on.
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Old Apr 21, 2008 | 11:54 PM
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Oh, I knew that Rich

But what I'm wondering if instead of the small nipple getting inserted into front bolt, if it was put in nipple first the opposite direction, meaning pointing in towards the motor instead if pointing towards the head of the front bolt.

Is that even possible?

Here is that pic. It just looks like the thermal pellet plug is in there and facing the wrong way rather than being turned around and inserted into the front bolt, you can see the smaller ring where the spring is suppose to slip over the top of it.. Or is that something else and just looks like the top of the atkins thermal pellet plug?

Oh, and why would I need the spring if I have a plug in there? Does it just hold the plug in place?
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Old Apr 22, 2008 | 08:24 AM
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Yes, the pellet is in backwards. The spring just holds the pellet in place. Hopefully you can get some needle nose pliers in there and pull in out, but you may need to drill into the end of it and thread a screw in and pull it out with that.

Paul
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Old Apr 22, 2008 | 06:18 PM
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Damn, any specific type of screw that I should use? The spring was installed behind it and the front bolt put on, so how smashed in there could it be considering the only pressure would of been from the spring pushing on it.

I went ahead and tried, but needle nose pliers no worky, can't open them up enought to grab ahold of the pellet.

So, just drill a pilot hole, and thread a long screw in, and start pulling, nothing special right?
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Old Apr 22, 2008 | 06:53 PM
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I'd take a long thin screwdriver and stick it down in there and try to work it loose, just be careful not to scar up the bore. Would only take a few seconds, and you've got nothing to lose
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Old Apr 22, 2008 | 08:47 PM
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You can try a magnetic pickup tool, although I doubt that it will be strong enough to free the pellet. I would try as Rich suggested, and loosen it up with a screwdriver. Then use the pickup tool to nab that sucker.

BTW- According to the Turrentine rebuild video, that front bolt is not supposed to come out with the engine horizontal. As I understand it, the bearings can come off of the spacer without that bolt in place, so you should probably be careful how you poke around in there.


Good luck!
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Old Apr 22, 2008 | 10:24 PM
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Originally Posted by crcleofdst
You can try a magnetic pickup tool, although I doubt that it will be strong enough to free the pellet. I would try as Rich suggested, and loosen it up with a screwdriver. Then use the pickup tool to nab that sucker.

BTW- According to the Turrentine rebuild video, that front bolt is not supposed to come out with the engine horizontal. As I understand it, the bearings can come off of the spacer without that bolt in place, so you should probably be careful how you poke around in there.


Good luck!

It's aluminum.
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Old Apr 22, 2008 | 10:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Gadd
It's aluminum.

Yes. Yes it is...... Please excuse my retardedness......
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Old Apr 22, 2008 | 10:59 PM
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some super glue and a string could probably get that out
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Old Apr 27, 2008 | 04:23 PM
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That thing is lodged in their tight.

Anyother thoughts? I thought maybe an extractor, but it's in so tight that I'm kinda thinking maybe drill a hole and slip a slide hammer in there.

This is the dumbest problem to have. I'm never letting anyone touch my car again.
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Old Apr 27, 2008 | 05:17 PM
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Just curious, how did you discover this?
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Old Apr 27, 2008 | 06:01 PM
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I would go ahead and drill into it. Then see if you can lodge a screw or something in it that you can then lock on to pull it out.
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Old Apr 27, 2008 | 06:11 PM
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I've been having some help with getting my motor put back in, and we were about to drop the motor in when I decided to really educate myself on how all this is suppose to be. I bought R&R videos, read the FSM like it owed me money, and searched this board to death. I'm doing the rest by myself from here on out, which at this point is basically assembling and installing a rebuilt motor, so not that hard.

Nutshell, the front bolt was NEVER torqued on after everything was assemble, just put in hand tight plus a few good turns of the wrench. When I learned you couldnt remove the front bolt with the engine on it's side, I knew I better check things out.

Well, one day I was looking for the thermal pellet that I got from atkins, couldn't find it, I didn't remember putting it in, but thought I better check....sure as **** after posting here, there it was, backwards, and lodged in my eshaft

Then I found that not only had my torrington bearings fallen out of place, the washers were, well, not there.

Then my primary fuel rail diffusers weren't there, and list goes on.




Now I just gotta get this pellet out before I can do anything else and thats why I asked if a slide hammer would work on that aluminum pellet.
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Old Apr 27, 2008 | 06:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Mahjik
I would go ahead and drill into it. Then see if you can lodge a screw or something in it that you can then lock on to pull it out.
Should I flip the motor on the stand and do it with the eshaft facing towards the ground so nothing falls farther in the e-shaft? I can't remember what the eshaft looks like inside the shaft, how far back something could fall, etc, and I can't find a picture anywhere.

So basically, the large and small holes on the end of the eshaft, that's where the oil is let in, correct? The pellet is wedged far enough down that looking into the eshaft, I can see daylight through the top edge of the large hole. And am I correct that these holes is where the oil flows through into the e-shaft?
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Old Apr 27, 2008 | 06:59 PM
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Personally, I'd work on it right side up with a shop vac hose right next to it during the extraction. Drill into the middle of the pellet and use a #10 sheet medal screw of appropriate length to pull it out. Oil enters the eshaft from the stationary gear bearing, the oil hole at the front is where the OEM thermal pellet released oil when the motor was cold.

Paul
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Old Apr 27, 2008 | 09:50 PM
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Thank you to all who helped. I got it out just a few moments ago. I tried using a sheet metal screw, but it didnt feel right threading in, so I used a wood screw (after I drilled it down 3/8 of an inch) and threaded the wood screw in. Sprayed some WD in there and waited about 20 minutes. Then I used a dent puller (slide hammer) and threaded the nut onto the screw. 2 light pops and then one more with a little more muscle to it, and she popped free.


So excited, I can actually get going on this project now, and I feel very confident that I can do it myself so no more trying to find help.

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