erik7

Hi, newbie here!!

Anyway, I'm making sure I make the car as reliable as possible before I move forward with power goodies.

Car has a boost guage, alum AST, and a downpipe. So some of the reliability mods have been done. I want to get a temp guage now. Man, but do they vary in price. From about $65 for the AutoMeter from rx7store to about $126 for a Greddy without the peak hold and warning lights.

Is it really worth it to pay $60 more for a guage. By the way, I have a Pettit boost guage which just looks like a badged AutoMeter guage (says Autometer on the bottom).

Sorry for the newb question. Trying to cram as much info into my head as I can.

Also, is it safe to get a compression test at my dealer? He's a mile away, and would be very convenient. Just want to be on the safe side.

Thanks.

ERIK

rynberg

It sounds like you're on the right track, good for you.

You get what you pay for. I've compared an autometer (lower line) to my Defi. It's not even close in build quality. Plus, spending more often gets you peak/hold and/or warning features, which are useful. That said, a cheap gauge is better than no gauge at all. Get an electrical gauge, not a mechanical.

Just make sure they understand the procedure and that they put the spark plugs back in correctly (there are two different types in case you don't know).

Good luck.

erik7

Thanks rynberg.

I was waiting for someone to say I would get what I paid for!! Well, I would like to have my guages look the same. A nice defi or Greddy with my black Autometer with orange lighting sure would have a contrast. But like you said, a guage is better then no guage.

Also, I was thinking I would just go to all 9s. For a mostly stock car, it wouldn't be too early to go to the colder plugs, would it? Thanks again.

ERIK

alwan16

i think the autometer should be fine. i have the greddy's but i do not think there should be a big difference.

apneablue

This is a definate biggie...I remember when I thought I screwed up the thread on one of the plug holes...I really didn't understand what a touchy job it was until I realized that if I screwed up the thread, and a thread chaser didn't help, I would have to be pulling the engine. Anyway, I wouldn't take it to the dealer unless my left nut was in jeopardy. Surely you can find a rotary specialist close by.

Rynberg is right...the Defi gauges are awesome...the peak hold is killer when it comes to diagnosing probs.


If you want to see what they look like you can check them out in my sig.

RX7 RAGE

iTrader: (22)

or get a pfc and you dont have to get a stinkin gauge.

Shinobi-X

I'm using autometer temp, boost, and A/F guages, and they are all fine. Paying 160 for guages is beyond me, when most of what you are paying for is the name (among some other slight features that can be useful like rynberg stated). Nothing is wrong with the autometer guages if you want a simple guage that does what it's supposed to.

wickedrx7

iTrader: (14)

autometer gauges are fine, just get the higher line autometer. Yes the peak hold is nice but is it really worth the extra money? Thats for you to decide. Also you pay extra for GREDDY and DEFI on your gauges. Get a manual gauge, it is way more accurate than the electric. I worked for a race team for three years and thats all we put in, yes they are more of a pain to put in but definitely more accurate.

erik7

Ok, I knew some name sponsorship was involved in the cost, but wanted to know if there was actually something behind it. I don't mind spending the money, as long as I'm getting something for it.

Now, what are the top of line AutoMeters?

And second, when we're talking accuracy, how much loss is there really? I know the mechanical/electrical arguments "rage" on, and I saw some weak dissenting arguments against both in other threads. So if electrical is less accurate, by how much? Are we talking like 2 degrees or much more? I know accuracy is important, but sometimes people get too crazy.

I appreciate the input, keep it coming.

ERIK

apneablue

You have any proof to back that up, dude? or just that it's all you used with your race team for three years?

911GT2

Wait, wait, I feel an argument.

Stop now and lets have a before everyone gets upset.

rynberg

No kidding. Statements like that are ridiculous and have no scientific backing whatsoever.

It's funny how all of the OEM sensors for every car made are electrical. You don't see manufacturers running lines full of coolant, fuel, or oil into the passenger compartment now do you?

wickedrx7

iTrader: (14)

In my mind the pro-comp series is the best. All the gauges are liquid filled and are high quality. If you compare these gauges to the Greddy or Defi they are pretty comparable in quality.

I am not going to talk out of my *** here and make up some bullshit why they are better; I just stated what I know and how I know it. The race team I worked for has raced cars for 30 years and I asked him what was better and he said mechanical. They are less prone to break and less prone to variation in temperature, so I've read online. All I can say is I have heard up to 5 to 10 degrees variation. (not much)

Just remember Erik when you reading online, take everything with a grain of salt. I am just trying to give you the knowledge I have and that’s all.

rynberg,
Not to start a fight but the stock temp gauge isn't real so the fact that auto makers don't use mechanical gauges means absolutely nothing to this conversation.

apneablue

a quick FYI: I don't have anything against Autometer manual gauges...It's just that when someone says that a manual gauge is better than one with an electric sensor, you better have something to back it up other than saying you used them for three years.

I used an Autometer boost gauge before I had my Defi boost gauge and they both read the same thing when I was running stock levels...So is one better than the other? I dunno...I know the only advantage I really see with the electronic one is that all I have coming through my firewall is a thin wire for each sensor that has been installed and the play back and peak hold function.

Nite y'all, it's late.

adam c

iTrader: (2)

If money is an issue, check out the VDO gauges. They look nice, and are reasonably priced. Mine seem to work well.

www.egauges.com

rynberg

That is not scientific evidence in the slightest bit. I don't know how in a STREET car, an electrical gauge can be more prone to breakage and thermal drift. There are a lot of long standing misconceptions out there -- like the one about brake rotors warping. To me, running fluids into the passenger compartment is insane.

What the hell does the stock water temp gauge have to do with anything. Mazda purposely made it non-linear, it is actually very accurate, as those who have linearized it can attest. Either way, I don't know how that makes the fact that auto makers don't use mechanical gauges mean nothing to this conversation.

erik7

Ok ok,

So I can see 10 degrees being a big deal, but I have yet to read a post with someone saying my temp guage was 10 degrees off and my engine blew.

So with that, I would rather take on the easier install then having fluid running into my car. So I'm going to go electrical and take the "risk"!

I've been around car forums for a while, so I know there is a lot of misconceptions thrown around. That's why I like to get a bunch of feedback and I usually learn something in the process. And for one man's opinion, I can always find another man to refute it!!

Thanks adam c for the site. I'll probably go with an autometer just because of my boost guage, but thanks for the info. Also, probably will give you a call about your bastardized cold air mod!!

Thanks again.

ERIK