BusaNostra

iTrader: (1)

OK....I changed my thermostat to 180 degrees.
My gauge is been idling for a long time -- never overheated but the
the gauge goes very high almost at the last white mark but no in the
red mark. Stayed there.....

Do you think, I still need to keep bleeding?
or that's how 180 degrees mark?

ZE Power MX6

iTrader: (157)

The stock gauge should never move above half, did this happen before the thermostat change?

BusaNostra

iTrader: (1)

The engine is newly rebuild. I primed the block and filled with anti freeze and I changed the thermostat to 180 degrees Stant.
I remember it used to be in the middle from the stock old thermostat.
It's Not overheating though but it bothers me that the needle is almost to the last white mark....not in the red mark. Stays there.
Maybe the anti freeze is not circulating good and I need to bleed it more?

I shutdown the engine and it's not hot in the engine bay. The radiator is not hot either. I'm suspecting it's not circulating.

dguy

iTrader: (8)

Actually, it IS overheating if the gauge is going above the half way mark. That, or your gauge is F'd.

fendamonky

iTrader: (6)

Yeah, with everything working properly the factory gauge should not go beyond the middle area. The stock display is weighted oddly, as a result it normally will not begin to move beyond its average reading until AFTER its already too hot...

Many owners track their temperatures independently of the factory gauge... I know that I was using the PFC and Commander for years, I ALWAYS had the water temp displayed on the commander and I would take that reading over what the dash said.

Now that I'm moving on to a Life Racing unit I'll probably also get an independent display to track what the computer is seeing in preference to what the dash needle shows.

IRPerformance

iTrader: (41)

Sounds like you have air in the system. A Lisle funnel really helps when bleeding here. You can try squeezing the radiator hoses while it is running to help get air bubbles out.

ZE Power MX6

iTrader: (157)

+1 on the Lisle funnel.

If that didn't happen before the thermostat change then either something is not right with the new thermostat or you might have air in the system.

adam c

iTrader: (2)

Its possible that you installed the t-stat backwards, and its not opening. The radiator should be hot.

BusaNostra

iTrader: (1)

THAT'S AN EXCELLENT IDEA.
Where do i put it? from the expansion filler (near the alternator) or to the overflow tank ?
Can I buy the Lisle funnel at autozone? advance auto? pep boys?

Thank you --- I'm sure this is my problem.

'Its possible that you installed the t-stat backwards, and its not opening. The radiator should be hot.'

Well, this is the way installed it.

bobsrx795

Is the nipple on the bottom if so it needs to be on the top. I can't quite see it in the pic. Also of you don't have a lisle funnel burp the system by squeezing the main radiator hose and adding fluid then repeat will accomplish getting most of the air out.

ZE Power MX6

iTrader: (157)

Don't think any of the local store carry the funnel, you'll have to get it online, Summit or Amazon will have it.

adam c

iTrader: (2)

You dont need any special funnel to get the air out of the system. Disconnect the throttle body coolant line when you are filling the coolant. This will allow air to escape. Replace it, and run the car until its warm. You may have to do it twice to remove all air.

2slo4my7

iTrader: (3)

As soon as you see the temp needle start to move up. Stop the car, let it cool down and start from step 1.

04G35S

iTrader: (10)

This is how I have always bled cooling systems when I do water pumps or rebuilds. My FD does not have these hooked up but I took hose from the rear iron port and extended it up almost to the top of the UIM. I put a bolt in it to plug it but when I fill the coolant I remove it so it pushes all the air out of the system. After the first heat cycle I pulled the bolt again and you would be surprised how much air came out.

Oh an I use that funnel too. I got mine from Car Quest