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synthetic to mineral oil? bad for engine?

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Old 08-02-06, 07:50 PM
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synthetic to mineral oil? bad for engine?

is switching from synthetic to mineral oil bad for the engine?
Old 08-02-06, 07:57 PM
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On a higher mileage engine, I wouldn't recommend it. If its a lower mileage engine, shouldn't be a problem.
Old 08-02-06, 08:01 PM
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why would it be a bad idea?
Old 08-02-06, 08:05 PM
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Worse is to switch a mid/high mileage car from dino to full synthetic. The synth has a tendancy to leak out of EVERY seal you can imagine.
Old 08-02-06, 08:48 PM
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Originally Posted by alexdimen
why would it be a bad idea?
Synthetic is better at picking up and carrying away deposits. This can (not always) reveal leaks which were plugged with deposits by switching.
Old 08-02-06, 09:13 PM
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Dino, dino, dino. I've always used dino oil in mine. Always Valvoline 20w-50 and Mazda filters, every 2k miles. 135k, 65k on second montor, original turbos, still boostin 10 psi, no shaft play, no leaking seals, etc.
Old 08-02-06, 09:46 PM
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Sticking with Dyno is like saying, "my dad ran bias ply tires and if they were good enough fior him, they are good enough for me". The telegraph was great in it's day but I'll stick with my cellphone.
Old 08-03-06, 06:55 AM
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Originally Posted by impactwrench
Sticking with Dyno is like saying, "my dad ran bias ply tires and if they were good enough fior him, they are good enough for me". The telegraph was great in it's day but I'll stick with my cellphone.
Not necessarily. Your analogy is flawed here, as you are comparing old technology to new.
Synthetic oil in rotaries is still regarded by many experts to be a no-no for a variety of well-documented reasons.

I use synthetic in ALL my piston engine cars and boats....hell even my weedeater and lawnmower! But I will NOT run it in my rotary cars. The risk is just not worth it.
Old 08-03-06, 07:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Mahjik
On a higher mileage engine, I wouldn't recommend it. If its a lower mileage engine, shouldn't be a problem.
Originally Posted by Mahjik
Synthetic is better at picking up and carrying away deposits. This can (not always) reveal leaks which were plugged with deposits by switching.
i talked to someone at royal purple also a fd owner and he said the same as Mahjik.
Old 08-03-06, 08:33 AM
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Originally Posted by impactwrench
Sticking with Dyno is like saying, "my dad ran bias ply tires and if they were good enough fior him, they are good enough for me". The telegraph was great in it's day but I'll stick with my cellphone.
Just one question: Why does Mazda recommend Mineral oil in the 7? Dont say "synthetic has come a long way since -92", that may be true but Mazda recommend mineral on the -02 too.
Old 08-03-06, 08:55 AM
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Originally Posted by bajaman
Not necessarily. Your analogy is flawed here, as you are comparing old technology to new.
Synthetic oil in rotaries is still regarded by many experts to be a no-no for a variety of well-documented reasons.

I use synthetic in ALL my piston engine cars and boats....hell even my weedeater and lawnmower! But I will NOT run it in my rotary cars. The risk is just not worth it.
I think Mahjik (or someone else?) posted awhile back an article by Racing Beat (??) stating that synthetic (i.e. synthetics of today) in rotaries is not only safe, but highly recommended. Obviously a lot of question marks above but a search for "synthetic oil" will show the quote.

That said my motor has been running Amsoil 5w30 this year without a problem.

EDIT: Found the thread and to quote Mahjik:


Straight from the Racing Beat Rotary Performance Technical Manual:

"The Mazda factory does not recommend the use of synthetic oils in their rotary engines - specifically addressing this issue in the Owner's Manual.

In 1979, Racing Beat began testing synthetic lubrication products. Without a doubt, the best synthetic oils do perform well in extreme heat (over 300 F) and extreme cold (below 32 F), but by the nature of Mazda's rotary engine, the oil temperature never exceeds 250 F without severe engine damage due to other factors. In Souther California, we have difficulty seeing the low-temperature benefits: however, when we put synthetic lubricants in the engine, transmission, and differential in our IMSA GTU race car, we immediately saw what we later found to be a common result: The oil temperature in all three locations dropped 5 to 10 F for the same operating conditions. This is apparently due to two factors: reduced friction between sliding surfaces, and reduced foaming. As we continued to use synthetic oil products it became clear that they genuinely reduced wear. We also found benefits in street use. On two occassions, cars with "scratchy" transmissions synchronizers were completely cured by a change to synthetic gear lube. After many years of experience with these products we have observed only one problem: because of the reduced friction, the time necessary to break in an engine, transmission, or limted slip differential (standard differentials are no problem) is excessively long, so we recommend using mineral oil in all three for a time to ensure rapid break in."

Last edited by technician; 08-03-06 at 08:58 AM.
Old 08-03-06, 09:15 AM
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Isn't it AMAZING that these 'synthetic vs dino' discussions STILL keep popping up?
Old 08-03-06, 09:46 AM
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It is amazing
Old 08-03-06, 11:41 AM
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How about this: Use what YOU think is best for it.

=D
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