synthetic to mineral oil? bad for engine?
Originally Posted by alexdimen
why would it be a bad idea?
BMW Tech
Joined: Mar 2002
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From: Auburn, Alabama
Dino, dino, dino. I've always used dino oil in mine. Always Valvoline 20w-50 and Mazda filters, every 2k miles. 135k, 65k on second montor, original turbos, still boostin 10 psi, no shaft play, no leaking seals, etc.
Rotary Enthusiast
Joined: Dec 2002
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From: Bonita Springs Fl
Sticking with Dyno is like saying, "my dad ran bias ply tires and if they were good enough fior him, they are good enough for me". The telegraph was great in it's day but I'll stick with my cellphone.
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Constant threat
Joined: Jul 2001
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From: near Wichita, Kansas
Originally Posted by impactwrench
Sticking with Dyno is like saying, "my dad ran bias ply tires and if they were good enough fior him, they are good enough for me". The telegraph was great in it's day but I'll stick with my cellphone.
Synthetic oil in rotaries is still regarded by many experts to be a no-no for a variety of well-documented reasons.
I use synthetic in ALL my piston engine cars and boats....hell even my weedeater and lawnmower! But I will NOT run it in my rotary cars. The risk is just not worth it.
almost done
Joined: Dec 2001
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From: 250 HZ
Originally Posted by Mahjik
On a higher mileage engine, I wouldn't recommend it. If its a lower mileage engine, shouldn't be a problem.
Originally Posted by Mahjik
Synthetic is better at picking up and carrying away deposits. This can (not always) reveal leaks which were plugged with deposits by switching.
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Joined: Jul 2005
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From: Sweden
Originally Posted by impactwrench
Sticking with Dyno is like saying, "my dad ran bias ply tires and if they were good enough fior him, they are good enough for me". The telegraph was great in it's day but I'll stick with my cellphone.
Drunken Master
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 184
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From: Wisconsin
Originally Posted by bajaman
Not necessarily. Your analogy is flawed here, as you are comparing old technology to new.
Synthetic oil in rotaries is still regarded by many experts to be a no-no for a variety of well-documented reasons.
I use synthetic in ALL my piston engine cars and boats....hell even my weedeater and lawnmower! But I will NOT run it in my rotary cars. The risk is just not worth it.
Synthetic oil in rotaries is still regarded by many experts to be a no-no for a variety of well-documented reasons.
I use synthetic in ALL my piston engine cars and boats....hell even my weedeater and lawnmower! But I will NOT run it in my rotary cars. The risk is just not worth it.
That said my motor has been running Amsoil 5w30 this year without a problem.
EDIT: Found the thread and to quote Mahjik:
Straight from the Racing Beat Rotary Performance Technical Manual:
"The Mazda factory does not recommend the use of synthetic oils in their rotary engines - specifically addressing this issue in the Owner's Manual.
In 1979, Racing Beat began testing synthetic lubrication products. Without a doubt, the best synthetic oils do perform well in extreme heat (over 300 F) and extreme cold (below 32 F), but by the nature of Mazda's rotary engine, the oil temperature never exceeds 250 F without severe engine damage due to other factors. In Souther California, we have difficulty seeing the low-temperature benefits: however, when we put synthetic lubricants in the engine, transmission, and differential in our IMSA GTU race car, we immediately saw what we later found to be a common result: The oil temperature in all three locations dropped 5 to 10 F for the same operating conditions. This is apparently due to two factors: reduced friction between sliding surfaces, and reduced foaming. As we continued to use synthetic oil products it became clear that they genuinely reduced wear. We also found benefits in street use. On two occassions, cars with "scratchy" transmissions synchronizers were completely cured by a change to synthetic gear lube. After many years of experience with these products we have observed only one problem: because of the reduced friction, the time necessary to break in an engine, transmission, or limted slip differential (standard differentials are no problem) is excessively long, so we recommend using mineral oil in all three for a time to ensure rapid break in."
"The Mazda factory does not recommend the use of synthetic oils in their rotary engines - specifically addressing this issue in the Owner's Manual.
In 1979, Racing Beat began testing synthetic lubrication products. Without a doubt, the best synthetic oils do perform well in extreme heat (over 300 F) and extreme cold (below 32 F), but by the nature of Mazda's rotary engine, the oil temperature never exceeds 250 F without severe engine damage due to other factors. In Souther California, we have difficulty seeing the low-temperature benefits: however, when we put synthetic lubricants in the engine, transmission, and differential in our IMSA GTU race car, we immediately saw what we later found to be a common result: The oil temperature in all three locations dropped 5 to 10 F for the same operating conditions. This is apparently due to two factors: reduced friction between sliding surfaces, and reduced foaming. As we continued to use synthetic oil products it became clear that they genuinely reduced wear. We also found benefits in street use. On two occassions, cars with "scratchy" transmissions synchronizers were completely cured by a change to synthetic gear lube. After many years of experience with these products we have observed only one problem: because of the reduced friction, the time necessary to break in an engine, transmission, or limted slip differential (standard differentials are no problem) is excessively long, so we recommend using mineral oil in all three for a time to ensure rapid break in."
Last edited by technician; Aug 3, 2006 at 08:58 AM.
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