Surviving use in traffic (high IATs)
#26
My experience on the FC (with OEM oil cooler, and then with dual FD oil coolers in the brake ducts area just like the FD/RX8[FC3S oil cooler removed]) shows that the oil temps stay very close to the water temp when in traffic during hot/warm days.
Oil temps normally hover about 20-30 F less than the coolant. With that said, I've also noticed that if oil temps match coolant temps, the coolant temp will increase.
Oil temps normally hover about 20-30 F less than the coolant. With that said, I've also noticed that if oil temps match coolant temps, the coolant temp will increase.
#29
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#30
I haven't had to do it in a while but if I have a small strip of road in front of me during traffic, I can accelerate a bit without boost and my water injection will go off, I forget which rpm it triggers at but it wasn't high. I get a quick intake temp drop. If traffic is bad it'll rise up again but I can curb it with this method. You can also force injection by activating a jumper on the control box (aquamist) as well. I haven't had to do this in ages though and even when I did, it was probably unnecessary. AI drops intake temps so fast that as soon as I'm out of traffic, I can hit desired temps in seconds.
#31
Even with a good v-mount I get heat soak sitting in summer traffic. but it cools a lot faster when you start moving again. If you have a PFC with datalogit, check your air and water temp timing and fuel safety settings and just don't "romp" on it until things cool down. . .and then have fun!
#32
Please somebody help!!!
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I bought a 2 wire windshield washer bag and pump off ebay for cheap, a boost switch, plus a couple of feet of rubber tubing and a nozzle from generic parts store. All told I was about $40 in for a dirt cheap automatic intercooler sprayer. Doesn't help IATs in traffic, but it made them drop a lot faster afterward.
You can get a lot more sophisticated.
You can get a lot more sophisticated.
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